Men's Fashion on Film - A 'Brave New World'.

What with an increasing number of industry heavyweights choosing film as the medium to convey their menswear creations and innovations (see YSL and Alexander McQueen for SS10) it seems only natural that fashion editorial has moved in the same direction, with online menswear mag Buckstyle forging the path. The two fields have a deep and almost intrinsic affinity for each other, anyway. Both mediums are inherently visual and the environments surrounding the production and distribution of the product often overlap with actors of renown developing strong relationships with fashion houses of equal renown and the abundance of fashion-related plots featuring in contemporary cinema (speaking of...when's The September Issue arriving in UK/Ireland?).

Buckstyle's first foray into film has led to Brave New World, a high-octane short featuring AW09 styles from ready-to-wear majors Prada, YSL, Alexander McQueen and Raf Simons to the high-street's best: Topman, American Apparel, H&M and River Island. Not to get too film-scribe about the whole thing, but it must be said that the film's mise-en-scène beautifully illustrates the themes those involved wished to highlight: survival, security and protection, with male protagonist and model Alex Jermy appearing first in just a pair of jeans and then gradually equipping himself with extra layers of sartorial safety - an ashen poloneck and hoods galore.

Rotten Tomatoes this blog is not, but if it were I'm sure the aggregate would deem this first filmic editorial a good thing indeed.


Directed by James Yeomans, Styling and Creative Direction by Celia-Jane Ukwenya, Models Alex Jermy and Holly Dormon.

Mulling over the Mlutch.

Prada SS10

Fortunately (and at long last), in this post-metrosexual era, it's entirely acceptable for men to lug around bags of equal extents of chic to their counterparts intended for the fairer sex. A recent development, though, perhaps due to the pioneering and flamboyant experimentation of the Boys with Birkins - Yu Masui, Jean Paul Paula and the infamous Bryan Boy, has been the - what I refer to as - the murse, perhaps more correctly deemed the 'mlutch' or the clutch for men.

Admittedly, this whole concept is a littled dated what with the term most likely having been coined a couple of seasons ago following numerous designers' embracing the idea of an elegant evening pochette for men. Still, it's taken me this time to mull over the mlutch and stumble off the fence. I've come to the conclusion that despite its inherent connotations of femininity the clutch is most definitely workable in the everyman's wardrobe provided it's of a certain masculine leaning.

Do please note that I'm not in the habit of preaching what's wearable and what's not (especially considering I'm no bona fide authority on menswear), and that, for the most part, I strongly disapprove of fashion dictates but in this case I feel it necessary to just put it out there that mlutches are not going to work for everyone. Were I to try, I'd keep it black, streamlined (not in a sleek, feline and feminine way but a more masculine, straightforwardness of design way) and unadorned for maximum (yet subtle) impact.



Marni SS09



Salvatore Ferragamo SS10



Dolce & Gabbana SS10

Also, size does matter in this case. Not in the sense that the bigger your accessory-endowment the better, rather the neater and more compact the greater degree of edited, refined sophistication you'll achieve, and that's sort of what we're going for here, right?

Images from Men's Style

Born of the Street: Paris and Milan.

Now don't get me wrong, I appreciate the biannual showcasing of menswear designers' work in Milan and Paris but aren't some of the best looks born on the street rather than the runway? Since I've previously highlighted some of The Sart's streetstyle snaps during previous fashion weeks I thought it unacceptable not to natter a bit on the cream of the SS10 crop of showgoers.

Yes he's slim of limb and handsome which helps immeasurably but pulling an all-over tone is no mean feat. I love the softness of this maroon and the subtly individual styling - the tucked-in tee.



Surely one of the season's most eye-catching endeavours. The lace is the perfect fit, not too fitted, and so signifies a distinctly masculine sensuality. Also, the juxtaposition of the harsh and steely with the bright gem that is his neckpiece is rather fetching.



Precisely how shorts should be worn. Cargo-sporters take note. Further, blue-and-black - despite its connotations of the consequences of violence - surely one of the most appealing colour combos?



Perhaps a result of Ms. Bubble's raving about the garment-cage? This alluring lattice-jacket is definitely the best menswear rendition.

More skin-baring, this time more Balmain-esque. I love that, despite the get-up's body-con fit the wearer doesn't render it as camp as might be expected.

Note: I - surprisingly enough - don't condone cigarettes as accessories. Just in case a tirade was coming my way.

Images from The Sartorialist and Jak and Jil

Olivier Borde SS09: Quiet Reinvention.

With the slew of SS10 shows and presentations past us and numerous new aesthetic-leanings to digest (was it me or did there seem to be a mound more shows this seasons due to increased coverage? Thanks, incidentally, to WWD, Men's Style and Dazed) I thought some tangential blogging (read: not a SS10 show review) was in order.

So, I guess this is an address of reader sentiment of sorts (and also a collection review actually...what? I don't think I know anything else after all that amateur critiquing over the past while...). When I posted this interview with recent Antwerp-grad Six Lee Anonymous commented that his work was uncannily similar to that of a designer (heretofore unknown to me) - Olivier Borde. Yet another Anonymous retaliated by declaring that Lee's designs bore no significant similarity to Olivier Borde and I'd probably be inclined to agree. Damn though, he is a fine designer and if it weren't for this Comment-section disagreement I'd still most likely be in the dark. Thanks, then, to Anonymous!







Just like GFW the International Festival d'Hyeres is an event which invariably intrigues and excites me endlessly but also one which I frequently forget to investigate in-depth. It was at this, fashion's biannual fair of tremendous talent, that Olivier Borde showed his first collection, for AW08 (and lest ye forget, that year the panel included Riccardo Tisci and Haider Ackermann so this his being selected was no mean feat...)



Borde was lauded for his reinvention of menswear classicism and the SS09 collection is more than sufficient proof of his success. Casual staples like the denim jacket are adjusted, endowed with a certain sensuality achieved with the curving of a collar or pocket, standard sportswear pieces like the polo are noticeably altered with a geometric, pannelled print, and derby shoes are boldly bright yellow - I don't think I need say more.

Images from Olivier Borde

Givenchy SS10: Verging on Thriller.

Since the news of MJ's death has spread everywhere, undoubtedly including Outer Mongolia at this stage (is there any real basis to this old phrase...?), I'll spare another reiteration of the details. That said, it's impossible to give somewhat of a review on Givenchy's SS10 without referring, at least in passing to the glittering, stud-sporting pop-icon.

Considering Jackson's fondness for Givenchy womenswear it was only natural that Riccardo Tisci be appointed the equivalent of head of costumery for MJ's comeback performances at the O2 in London. The first consultation was to take place today. Alas.

But Wacko Jacko's signature slick-showman aesthetic was still evident in Tisci's latest menswear endeavour. From the trademark black-and-white colour combination to the gilded-looking details it all seemed to salute the sartorial splendour of the departed entertainer. 

Then there was the sporty/latino/Moroccan (what a hybrid...) dynamic to the entire affair (another typically Tisci flourish) not so much MJ but desirable none the less.

Images from Men's Style

Henrik Vibskov SS10: Tasselled Topsy-turviness.

Employment, albeit for store credit not hard cash. Who'd have thought it? Yes, I've managed to wangle a few days work in Dublin's Circus Store, the delightful emporium featured here a while back, and seeing as it's sale season the v. generous Aisling, Damien and Fiona are offering 40% off deliciously zany Henrik Vibskov stock. Nice one re: the store credit, then.





So having spent hours gazing at Africa pants I was reminded of Vibskov's SS10 show which took place last night in Paris. It seems this financial meltdown has been on Vibskov's mind too, the collection was decidedly safe with no outstanding deviation from previous seasons. Considering the economic climate, though, it's surely a sound decision not to engage in a search for the next short-lived trend but rather to innovate within one's own aesthetic boundaries.





Vibskov did it brilliantly. More of the loopy prints and loose shapes but the collection, for me, was a much more wearable rendition of his previous work. Shorts galore, samurai-inspired outerwear and a healthy dose of polka-dots. Headwear was as outré as ever, just watch you don't poke eyes out.

PS. Those tasselled all-in-ones. Phwoar.

Images from A Shaded View

Marni SS10: A Mixed Reaction.

Considering I'm a film student it probably would be most appropriate for the next 'shotgun' show review (I would write pithier analyses if time allowed...hélas) to examine Alexander McQueen's SS10 collection. But I've seen the film, it's nothing to write home about (simulated self-harming anyone? Honestly, the creative process couldn't be that difficult...) and the collection's only mildly more noteworthy so on to Marni, which seemed to consolidate its position as one of the Milanese menswear-heavyweights this season.





It was less geometric shape and spare palette, more audacious prints and warm hues. The signature schoolboy-prep was still apparent but this season's was a much more unruly sort in contrast to the ever-so-slightly dull swot of SS09.





Still, mine is a mixed reaction to a somewhat schizo collection. If Consuela was so keen on reintroducing the fun of fashion into Marni (her attempt was more than succesful...that all-over print shorts-suit) then why ever didn't she go the whole hog instead of including boring, brown basics with no shape? Must be the heat.

Images from Men's Style

Prada SS10: More than black and white.

You know that feeling you get when you're reminded of your love for a particular someone/something (love that's not constant and immune to lapsing but is generally lasting) ? I reckon that's the feeling Miuccia inspired in me this season.



Prada has - in the past - brought about reactions both abhorrent and admiring from me, sometimes it's not sufficiently wearable, other times her conceptual impetus is pure BS and leads to frustration when one makes any attempt at comprehending and then, on a rare occasion, I find myself absolutely enamoured of her innovation. Since SS10 drew inspiration from black-and-white film (quotes from films of the ilk dressed the show's set) I was sold from the start. (Note, too, that Tim Blanks' divulging that the backstage drink was my alcoholic BFF - the Black Russian - was surely instrumental in my having such a positive response.)



Enough of filmic inspiration. It is, after all, the actual clothing that leaves the spectator with the (hopefully) indelible impression, not the highfaluting talking-up. And what an impression this selection of altered and undone suits made. Since a significant number of men spend quite a considerable amount of time in them, Miuccia addressed the issue in the only way she knows, her trademark deconstruction and idiosyncratic embellishment. So, no standard office-fare here then. Suits were perforated or sleeveless and traditional shirting made no appearance. In its place was an abundance of deep v-necked vests and cardigans, all in not-so-dull shades of grey.





And while skirts weren't centre-stage this season, ragged-hemmed short-shorts and all that mesh certainly went some way in furthering the proposition of Miuccia's new definition of masculinity - "sexier, more beautiful, more sensitive [...] vulnerable".

Images and quote from Men's Style