Il Sistema Degli Oggetti: Beauty and Baudrillard.

Postmodernism, simulacra, meaning, consumption vs. production - these are the Baudrillardian sociological theories which inform Italian label, Il Sistema Degli Oggetti's, aesthetic. Eh...what? Aren't you always that little bit wary when a brand attaches itself to some lofty academic concept that's vague enough to elude strict definition and, therefore, capable of being bastardised? It screams pretension to me, since designers are so v. rarely aware of what the whole crux of their chosen concept is. That said, I'm no Baudrillard expert (see Ana K of Ripped Knees for more learned observations), I mean I know who he is, but I skipped the entire section on postmodernism and avoided semiotics like the plague when it came to revising Film Theory last year. 

A brand which takes its name from Jean Baudrillard's 1968 seminal publication, The System of Objects, Il Sistema is the product of three talented Politecnico di Milano grads (Caterina Coccioli, Anna Lottersberger, and Alessandro Manzi) who banded together in 2008 in the hopes of translating the French theorist's notions into covetable clothing. But aside from Baudrillard's idea of "consumption" being at the core of our society's being, and that, what we wear acts as a signifier in the semiotic sense, I can't really make any solid links between Il Sistema's designs and Baudrillard's musings.

Still, it's a bloody good AW10 collection and I want it all, which is the main point of it all, right? Well cut woolen suits in charcoal are testament to the designers' love of quality Italian craftsmanship,  and are offset by delicate shirting, that mountain peak print shirt, with a welcome sportswear interjection from the zippered mesh shirt and parka. Gimme.

Staple Sweaters from Oki-Ni

I've not really made it much of a secret that I've been heralding rather than lamenting the arrival of Autumn. Not only is this the season you get to pile on chunky knits, wear socks with shoes (f**king foot comfort...finally!), and start budgeting for another pair of all-important boots, it's also, however, the one that leaves you huddled in your hallway ignoring knocks at the door from a seemingly insatiable debt collector - or is that just the way I imagine myself turning out after I've pored over the below?

Most of the stock featured on online advocate of avant-garde menswear, Oki-ni.com, has, and will be for the foreseeable future, out of my price-range, but a spot of Autumn Winter 2010 porn never hurt, right? Here are just a couple of my picks from the latest collections to go live:

^ Alexander McQueen Mock Neck Knitted Jumper - Ultra soft wool? Intarsia skulls and heritage patterns? Am sold.

^ Warriors of Radness Dunes Sweater - Quite like the oversized pocket in the front, can imagine wearing it is something akin to being a rather large stoplight red kangaroo. Win.

Raun Larose AW10: New Talent from NYC

With such a wealth of menswear talent in existence and emergence in London, it's sometimes easy to forget about designers stateside. Although I'd turn to Paris over New York when scrolling through next season collections on GQ.com, it's the latter that, with its unpretentious and relaxed aesthetic, often inspires my day-to-day style. That said, there's no doubt the optimum look would be a hybrid of the two fashion capitals, and Brooklyn-based Raun Larose seems to concur with his AW10 collection of jersey, wool, and that now firm fashion favourite - neoprene.

I dug a little deeper to learn more about NY's latest menswear talent...

MM: What experience do you have in the industry? Did you study fashion?

RL: I've interned at Zac Posen in Paris, interned at the fashion department of VIBE Magazine, and then eventually went on to start my label Raun

LaRose. Although, i'm still searching for opportunities on a daily basis. I attended the Art Institute of NYC, Lately, I attended FIT. Where I

took courses in Menswear Design.

MM: What inspired the AW10 collection?

RL: With this collection I didn't want to be inspired by one thing in

particular. If I said I was, then I would be lying. I wanted to produce

garments that just looked more like works of art.

MM: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

RL: As for my aesthetic, I design for the individual who is in search of

change in his daily wardrobe. I love sophistication with a modern

twist. I've been dubbed the 'American European'. It took me a while to

discover my appreciation for European culture and design.

But I also know that I don't want to have a signature as a designer, I don't want to be known for doing only one thing. I always hope to

push boundaries.

^ Love the simplicity, and Raf Simons-esque quality, of these pieces.

^ Two options for eveningwear - go safe, but decidedly slick, or go a bit mad with the belted, crazy collared number that Rei Kawakubo wishes she had designed.

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Since Larose's website seems on the brink, follow him on Twitter for updates.

Murdock London: The Best Barber's in Town

Great and all as it is, I'm going to attempt to reign in my gushing for London in the hopes that what's being reported from various sources is of some truth - that Dublin's undergoing somewhat of a renaissance with countless creative club nights, vintage stalls, and finally a street-style blog that faithfully represents us paddies not as perma-tanned Uggs aficionados or try-hard indie-types getting it all so v. wrong, but as the eclectic, exciting, and - dare I say it - sexy bunch we really are.

One thing I'm pretty sure we're lacking, though, is a bloody good barber's of the Murdock London ilk. Established by an Irishman, Brendan Murdock, in 2006, Murdock is a series of barbershops spread over London's ample central area catering to the modern man whose just as interested in engaging in a bit of old-school dandy styling as he is in getting a damn good chop. With three locations dotted throughout the UK capital (the original store in Shoreditch, for which the likes of quiff-devotee Pelayo opts, the Liberty's store, which also offers treatments for those barnets in need of buffering, and the v. traditional Mayfair branch, which, situated just off Old Bond St., caters to London's professional and tourist types), the brand never ceases to please.

^ The unbeatably spiffy Murdock Mayfair shop window

Having been invited to the Mayfair store for a complimentary haircut or shave by the v. lovely Lewis last week, I couldn't really refuse. I opted for the haircut despite having had the mop seen to by the amazing Jess of Ego Hair on Neal Street (as recommended by LSoD) just a few weeks prior - blame the thick, fast-growing hair genes. Can't really say just how glad I am now that I did.

^ Handsome genius with a clippers, Stephane, who not only gave me the subtle quiff I was after, but also prevented me from downing that Peroni at a breakneck speed.

Having been given a tour of the store which, in terms of décor, is v. much catering towards the trappings of old-world gentlemanliness - think red leather barber's chairs complete with iron-plate footrests (felt all v. Sweeney Todd minus the serial-killing and cannibalism of course, naturally, I loved it) and wood-panelled interiors, I was handed a cold beer and seated with Stephane, one of three stylists at the store, who, in stark contrast to every other person whose hands were responsible for my hair, asked me at regular intervals what look I was after, rather than carelessly flaunting technique.

And it's not just cold beers and quality hairstyling that Murdock offers, each store also stocks rare brands from likes of the fragrances of French perfumers Molinard, to Fin's suede loafers. So, not only do you emerge with a good cut, but you can leave looking and smelling the proper dandy, too.

And the result having had mah hur deed...

^ Shirt from River Island

Icarus Store: Australia's Own Menswear Mecca

Is it just me is 90% of the Irish population hopelessly in love with the idea of emigrating to Australia? I've never been the sun, sea, and surf kind of guy who relishes the prospect of spending hours on end on a scorching hot beach, not getting up to much apart from lounging around under UV rays and glugging Corona. Ok - random post intro but this does have some relevance as I've just come across Reason No. 1 as to why I should consider developing my own personal obsession - Sydney's Icarus Store.

Launched in mid 2010, the brainchild of Nathan Lim, Icarus Store goes where every other Australian retailer has feared to tread, stocking international labels from NY-based minimalist Patrik Ervell to Topman LENS collaborators, Mjölk. I caught up with Nathan to dig a little deeper on this retail wonderland down under...

MM: What convinced you to open a menswear boutique?

NL: I opened Icarus Store based on the observation of a lack of inspiring clothing stores currently on offer to male shoppers in Sydney or even Australia. I felt that Sydney was missing a dedicated menswear boutique catering to savvy male shoppers who appreciate well crafted clothing and are very much “quality over quantity”.

^ Various views of Icarus' enticing shop window

What's your professional background? Have you always been in fashion?

My background has been in finance working for a large consulting firm however I’ve had a lifelong ambition of owning my own store. Although I don’t have any fashion industry experience per se, there’s always been an interest and I hope to bring a different and fresh perspective to retailing in Sydney.

^ Inside the store. Someone feature this in a visual merch. how-to book now.

MM: What sets Icarus apart from its competitors?


NL: From the moment you step into the store, you won’t feel any pressure to buy anything. We aim to offer friendly and personalized service which is a rarity to find these days. In addition, I see Icarus as a relaxed and laid back store environment where everyone is welcome to hang out and shoot the breeze.

MM: I hate to use the term 'must-have', but is there a particular item you'd strongly recommend for AW10?

NL: My favourite menswear designer at the moment is Patrik Ervell. His clothes are very non-showy which is why I probably identify with it. The piece I’m looking forward to most in the collection is the Field Coat – his take on the iconic M-65.

^ The exposed brick wall serves as a reminder of what previously occupied the store space - a period terraced house, amaze, no? Craving the ecru canvas Commune de Paris tote on the right.

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Icarus Store is at 42 Reservoir St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010, Australia. If you're not in the area you can stock up on all the indie designer goodness at Icarusstore.com

Fine Tees & F. Scott Fitzgerald.

With my time in London coming to a close for now, I thought it was time to loosen budget constraints a little (unpaid work will leave you homeless, but you know, it's good experience!) and buy a little British for something to remember my -*CHEESE ALERT* - Summer of sometimes debauched, other times dignified, always unforgettable, frolics and fashion. Can't really believe I just said that...

What I've picked up, though, is more a NYC-themed haul than London-centric (esp. considering Topman is now storming over stateside and what with Scott Fitzgerald often being labelled the quintessential American author). How and ever, these are cheap staples that I plan to wear - and er...read - to rags.

^ Navy crewneck tee from Gap (£8); Striped scoopneck tee from Topman (£14)

Finding good quality tees on the high street always proves more difficult than I anticipate it to be. Whether the fit is too second-skin or too boxy, whether the tee shrinks beyond all recognition after just one wash, or whether it's unravelling having just been through just one night out on the town, a good tee is every bit as elusive as the perfect pair of jeans. Of the two above, the Gap tee fits well and feels incredibly good, while the Topman (being Topman) is of decent quality but probably won't be lasting me longer than the usual six months cycle. Still, it's Breton-esque, and you'll probably have guessed by now, I'm a bit of a stripe nut.

^ F Scott Fitzgerald novels for the price of an apple (probably)

Most well-dressed folk I know invariably recommend spending hours on end trawling through mounds of tat in charity shops in the hopes of unearthing a gem amongst the previously owned rough. I have nothing against wearing previously worn clothing, but I'm not going to give up several hours which could be spent either drinking coffee (or gin for that matter...), reading, or having a LOL with friends in order to wade through Dublin's decidedly average Oxfams. Well, not regularly anyway. What I will do, though, is happily buy more books than I can comfortably carry for the price of a couple of months Attitude or Dazed. These are two of one of my fave author's novels that I've been trying to track down for a while now, and when Little London Fields Festival and some quaint, and endearingly chaotic old bookshop in Finsbury Park proffered, I couldn't really refuse now, could I?

Note: If you're considering digging in to some Scott Fitzgerald, I'd recommend Tender is the Night over the so often hyped up and entirely overrated The Great Gatsby. Just sayin'.