It's true, I raved fanatically and, must admit, waxed lyrical about Burberry but it seems Paris held much more wonder up its sleek sleeve. Namely, Ute Ploier's FW 0809 inexpressibly swoon- and drool-worthy collection.
I recall a certain reluctance to open the thread on TFS when I spotted the name, unfamiliar with her work and mistaking the label for another that I'm not so keen on I almost disregarded it entirely. You might have guessed by now that having opened the thread I'm unapologetically deliriously happy, as - cheesey as it sounds - it was in a way, an enriching and uplifting experience, a reminder that menswear is far from a lost cause and by no measure doomed to the depths of gender-bending hell. I can now rest assured we males reside in good hands.
The intricacies of anatomy and bodily functions brought so beauteously to life by Marios Schwab some time ago has made yet another appearance. Ploier contorted a mass of synthetically bright white fabric into a sizable rib-cage that - I can only assume - serves as a throw. Being partial to a spot of human biology now and then I lapped it up.
I do have an unabashed affection for impactive outerwear, this disposition was never as apparent as when I came across these truly wondrously heavy trenches. They were - in some respects - akin to epileptic fits or unexpectedly attractive deformities, abounding with folds and manipulations enhanced the visual feast.
Speaking of, just check the foreground feature in the trio of delicacies below.
The palette was predominantly a steadfast combination of blackest black and aforementioned white but there came a well-received injection of vibrancy in the form of some sci-fi lemon trousers and a similarly spacy vivid blue long-sleeve tee.
Was kann ich sagen? Es war einfach wunderbar.
Images by Thomas Lillo via TFS
13 comments:
einfach wunderbar
Very different from her previous stuff.... quite Marjan Pejoski esque in some instances... but I likes!
wow the leather trench on the second pic is marvellous !!! the work around the neck is fabulous by the way
Super clever. I love those trousers in the last photo: the white and yellow. Sharp.
hey, thank you, i wish i could say something cool about fashion, by its kinda beyond me, haha, thanks for the link
alex,x
This appears to be a very forward (not in the sense of the banal "fashion-forward," but anticipatory) collection that isn't just anatomical but climatic. There are hints of a modern Ice Age on the horizon and also a very interesting subtext of alienation and mechanization.
It's cold, but it's very, very hot.
Ploier's collection cater more to the artsy side of fashion. Her previous collections entail extremely wearable stuff. But the shift still amuses me. The Austrian designer is a gift to menswear!!!!
Is it okay if I link your site?? haha I'm very amused by it :)
That'd be great. Thanks muchly.
DCB.
love it!
I have to agree that this was a wonderful show. It was one of the highlights without question. It will feature in my top ten pieces from Paris and Milan...when i finally get round to compiling it!
delightful...
The short coat in the second pic looks excellent, but the rest make me feel like I'm looking at rejected costumes for Bladerunner.
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