The Modern Male

And now, to illustrate how a man should never take himself and his style too seriously...

Inspired by beauteous model Daul Kim and her recent 'if i was a man...' post on her blog, I've compiled this questionnaire. It features questions based on her decisions and observations which - I think - are quite representative of many incarnations of the modern male.

Do you dress like this?

Do you read either of the superb publications - Paradis and Fantastic Man?

Do you read Virginia Woolf's short stories?



Are you a playboy?



Do you have strikingly great skin and alluringly clean hair?



Do you smell like Prada?



Have you grown a moustache à la Leung in 2046?



Do you own at least one Thom Browne suit?



And finally - preferred occupation/method of financing the expense of the aforementioned?

1. Live with Parents?
2. Go gay for pay?
3. Work hard and achieve own wealth?
4. Date old rich women?
5. Credit card fraud?

Should the darling Ms. Daul somehow slip upon this, let her know that I took some creative initiative and substituted where appropriate and also am eternally grateful for her wisdom. I haven't developed a scoring system as it would be taking the farcicality of this post just a step too far, don't hesitate to do so yourself though. Also by this logic, I would like to declare I am anything but modern...

Images from Men's Style, NY Times, The Blowup, Austin Chronicle, EssentialHomme, Smith.edu, Adam Kimmel, Blog.Honeyee and TFS

Wordsmiths

I've been an avid fan of Fashion156 for longer than I recall and over the years it's simply grown from strength to strength, exhibiting the best of British design talent and the cream of the International crop too. Extensive and informative editorial dealing with a broad range of topics from beauty to apparel makes for much great reading, note also, one Susie Bubble does the news in her unique and thoroughly engaging manner. So first, off, props to all at Fashion156 for an exciting and refreshing online venture!

Anywhat, the inspiration for this post was their latest issue - the Word Issue - which features models in smart and serious wear as Fashion156 address the geek-chic aesthetic. I must admit I find the labelling of a particular style as 'geeky', 'nerdy' 'swot-esque' or any other adjective pertaining to smarts, as just that bit lazy and I vow to avoid doing so at all costs. Don't you feel it's somewhat stereotypical or simplistic, to write off all cardigans and thick-rimmed glasses as 'geeky'?

However, I do appreciate that one has to effectively and efficiently describe the theme and the content within so perhaps they couldn't help themselves. Now, forget I said anything and feast your eyes on these which more than redeem any generalisation committed.









Also, be sure to check out their competition which could fetch you some fantastic fashion reading material. See here for more details.

Images from Fashion156

More MAN

The philanthropic bodies, Fashion East and Topman, will once again collaborate to produce yet another MAN show this coming February. Judging by previous extraordinary events bursting with the ideas and innovations of London's underground elite, this year is set to knock sox off. Guaranteed. Three new bright, young additions have been made to the line-up.

One of the latest additions to the line-up is the brainchild of über zany, strikingly streetwise, Super Super phenomenon - Kesh. She's an undisputed fox, DJs, designs, frequently flaunts her editorial skills and has been photographed for *insert appropriate so-cool-it-hurts mag title* a very many times. Some keshirts offer some klues as to what we can anticipate...





Despite possessing a name reminiscent of a certain fairy-tale fanatic I hold in high regard, Hans Christian Madsen, also adores the "rebel-youth" culture of the 50s, the Brandos and Deans etc. and designs with these figures in mind. A Dazed Digital interview is available here and although unmistakably succinct provides an intriguing insight into the mind of this Danish RCA graduate. And er...you'd better follow that link as he has proved himself somewhat google-elusive.



The final menswear virtuoso to show will be James Long, yet another google ghost, unfortunately.

Here's to LDN menswear.

Images from Myspace and Dazed Digital

'If you are safe about the choices you make, you don't grow...'

This blog is far from celebrity-bashing, nor is it celebrity-idolizing, in truth I abhor the present zeitgeist regarding prominence in society but I felt it necessary to commemorate the immensely talented actor and entirely inspirational man - Heath Ledger. In the post title you'll find some words uttered, when or where I can't quite recall, by the man himself and in my warped mind I somehow managed to relate this quote to style and image matters which seems somewhat shallow, yet, I simply felt compelled.

In so many instances Heath has portrayed characters that seem to abide by this code, in Brokeback Mountain an incomprehensibly difficult relationship flourishes, albeit not forever, against all known odds as a result of shunning the safe path. Even in the renowned 10 Things I Hate About You, Heath's playing a greasy rebel-without-a-cause type reflects the motto, he doesn't give a shit.

If you are overtly cautious about how another perceives you. If you don't take risks and mix it up rightly once in a while you simply don't progress, don't learn, don't grow.

Heath Ledger, R.I.P.

Image from Thebosh.com

Ploier Pleasures in Paris

It's true, I raved fanatically and, must admit, waxed lyrical about Burberry but it seems Paris held much more wonder up its sleek sleeve. Namely, Ute Ploier's FW 0809 inexpressibly swoon- and drool-worthy collection.

I recall a certain reluctance to open the thread on TFS when I spotted the name, unfamiliar with her work and mistaking the label for another that I'm not so keen on I almost disregarded it entirely. You might have guessed by now that having opened the thread I'm unapologetically deliriously happy, as - cheesey as it sounds - it was in a way, an enriching and uplifting experience, a reminder that menswear is far from a lost cause and by no measure doomed to the depths of gender-bending hell. I can now rest assured we males reside in good hands.



The intricacies of anatomy and bodily functions brought so beauteously to life by Marios Schwab some time ago has made yet another appearance. Ploier contorted a mass of synthetically bright white fabric into a sizable rib-cage that - I can only assume - serves as a throw. Being partial to a spot of human biology now and then I lapped it up.

I do have an unabashed affection for impactive outerwear, this disposition was never as apparent as when I came across these truly wondrously heavy trenches. They were - in some respects - akin to epileptic fits or unexpectedly attractive deformities, abounding with folds and manipulations enhanced the visual feast.



Speaking of, just check the foreground feature in the trio of delicacies below.



The palette was predominantly a steadfast combination of blackest black and aforementioned white but there came a well-received injection of vibrancy in the form of some sci-fi lemon trousers and a similarly spacy vivid blue long-sleeve tee.



Was kann ich sagen? Es war einfach wunderbar.

Images by Thomas Lillo via TFS

Swear Sale

Get your metallic skates on and hit it now!

I - on the other hand - should probably refrain seeing as I now have er...14 pairs of footwear in my possession. Don't judge!

EDIT - It seems 14 pairs is a mere modicum of footwear, er...again, don't judge?

Image from Swear

Milan some more...

An inevitably hot topic as always, Miuccia's latest showing had been debated with fervour several times over in mere moments of the unleashing of the hound [at times, I rather think mutt would be more fitting]. Prada's inherent innovation and abstract sensibility is - without doubt - to be commended but of Prada's many traits - a passion for cross-dressing is not the most admirable.

It opened innocently enough, suits cut narrow and jagged in officewear navies but just seconds later the first inkling of fetishistic transvestism oozed to the surface, namely, a black abomination, a repulsive hybrid of sports-bra and vest. Alright, it wasn't quite so offensive but stay with me, it gets worse...







Worse being a flurry of panties/cummerbund catastrophes. I could perhaps laud Miuccia for her courage in tackling the male-ideal and conventionally masculine aesthetic but frankly I'd rather not step out in this unforgivable sin...



This post is fast becoming a dangerously fire-and-brimstone sermon and - I swear - that is not the intention. Actually, having said all that, there were some breathtakingly beautiful pieces in this collection, chiefly vibrant footwear and accessories, and overall the unveiling of an immensely new Prada male. Tutus and cummerbund-panties aside, this lot will surely provide a turn-up for Prada's - now public - books.



Images from Men's Style

One for the Thom Browne enthusiasts...

Check out a brief review of the SS 08 collection, by myself, at über-hip wonder - Mainstream

Milan, so far...

It truly is a rare occurrence that I find myself so enraptured with a collection that I really do find it difficult to pinpoint faults. Burberry Prorsum FW 0809 is one such collection. Christopher Bailey is a most immense and formidable talent, unafraid to progress and venture forth in new direction whilst maintaining a strong commercial awareness that has led - in recent years - to unexpected success at the house.

Enough about acclaimed prodigy Bailey. The collection was - to be forthright - a sumptuous series of Autumnal looks. Bailey - as stated on Men's Style and more recently on Style Salvage - drew inspiration from the quaint oeuvre of L.S. Lowry who I'm not exactly familiar with but this did little in preventing me from thoroughly enjoying each idiosyncratic detail, each subtle quirk crafted by Bailey.



To be frank, I'm an absolute sucker for dark palettes and this collection has only reminded me of this penchant. Earthy[but also pleasingly chocolatey] browns, heady midnight blues and delectable burgundies and wines combined to produce, collectively, an unapologetic orgy of autumnal hues.



The cut has been remarked upon umpteen times already and although I'm currently middle-of-the-ground I can say I'm edging ever so slightly toward wholly adoring it...



...scrap that. I'm in love.

Images from Men's Style

Sean strikes again...

It's not often Sean O scores covers, however, I do believe it shan't remain this way for long. I harped on about his uncanny beauty and handsome allure unorthodox for his age before and now I desire only to let said appeal speak for itself.

Oh, additionally, Sean won the Gianfranco Ferre campaign for SS 08. Such an accurate, vivid visual representation of true, understated elegance.



oh, I do believe I've forgotten yet another worthy mention. Dsquared SS 08...











Because male models don't garner half enough attention as the girls...

Images from TFS

Dior Homme SS08 Campaign

In strong contrast to the inherent boredom of the Versace mens campaign - featuring the unmistakably unimpressive Dr. McDreamy - no offence intended to Mr. Dempsey, he's sadly not model material - Karl Lagerfeld has shot a much more applaudable campaign for Dior Homme.



For me, it effectively reflects Kris Van Assche's debut collection which marks a return to the classical elegance of bygone Dior days.

Images from frillr

Yet more New Look lauding...

Having been recruited by my corporate-finance type brother to assist in the expansion of his work wardrobe I felt compelled to at least pop into New Look and take a fleeting glance. Of course, the venture proved nothing but fruitless in many respects. Striped chav-ish shirts in a cotton akin to sandpaper, rather fat braces and ties - the antithesis to the currently coveted skinny variety, and pair after pair after pair of bloody acid wash jeans hung limply throughout the store. I was - as per usual - feeling utterly deflated.

However, all was not lost, soon I snatched a pair of charcoal grey slacks and a chocolate and grey v-neck jumper[yes the wool is of entirely questionable origin but for 6 euro!?, I, frankly, didn't care and neither did client in question - aforementioned brother]. After such a positive and positively rare New Look experience we found ourselves equipped with new courage to tackle the shoes. This, is where the fun began.

The majority were on sale, shapeless canvas crap and other tasteless styles I can't recall right now due to their distinctly bland profile. But among the mediocre mass was a v. handsome pair which I'm elated to proclaim were purchased for me by the commission-paying brother for the stately sum of, oh...7.50 euro...





Oh, by the by, I swear I'm not receiving copious sums of money for saying this...

Robert Geller, wunderkind.

Native German Robert Geller's experience, gained from his considerable involvement in the production of many a Marc Jacobs collection, as well as his aiding in the turn-around of Cloak, is evident in his solo work. A dab hand when it comes to the intricacies of colour-use, Geller has injected his SS 08 menswear offering with daring acidic shades. And, despite the death of nu-rave and confounded malarkey pertinent to it, these hues still appeal, most probably because neons are not for SS 07 but for life, do remember.






A noticeable, somewhat Berliner sensibility runs throughout the pieces, arising from the palette - one, predominantly, of stony greys and the odd creamy confection. The stream of boyish waifs sporting flat-ironed dos and boho-ish cuts display the clothing in the most appropriate light; clean and sparing.





Although I can't but detest the preppy "Oceanside" slogan plastered across a garment here and there I also can't suppress the urge to flurry about in praise of this particular jacket...



Geller has also designed for women - see Harland, it won't disappoint, and his menswear is stocked in several stores across the USA and Canada including Odin, Blackbird, Stel's and Scout. Us European folk - as far as I'm aware - must simply employ that virtue, patience.

Images from Men's Style