Oscars 08

I know, you needn't remind me I've previously sworn myself against the many evils of today's celebrity culture, and that I've railed against the large aggregate of celebrity-focused style-deficient blogs out there. I maintain whatever view I've expressed but I deem the Oscars an exception, don't you?

Although, having said that, from what I've seen it was a decidedly average affair with the menswear actually topping the womenswear. That rather speaks volumes wouldn't you agree? Anyway, the highlights for me...or if you would prefer something a little more apt and buckets more cheesy, the nominees are...



Firstly, let's all agree she's a bit of a state. As for Dan the Man, I felt the very subtle piping worked wonders. He seems to have effectively grasped the basic concept of menswear, less is most definitely more and minute alterations and embellishments render the biggest impact.



Probably my pick for the win. One doesn't happen upon 'buttoned-up' too often, any such instance should be enjoyed, and the source of this enjoyment, admired. In this case, the immense Javier Bardem.



Again, another illustrative example of the Oscar women's collective folly this year. Depp is consistently well turned-out, however, am I sensing an inkling of conservativeness eating away at his trademark quirk?

And your Oscar goes to?

Images from Men's Style

Miu Miu No More

It truly was good while it lasted, albeit haphazardly good. Yes, Ms. Miuccia Prada wasn't - perhaps - perpetually on form apropos of her menswear outturn but it was, I've always maintained, a welcome event during menswear showings in Milan. Alas, no more, Prada Group have eschewed the branch due to its low profitability. It does pain me while I pore over images of Miu Miu womenswear and enjoy that signature insouciant kookiness, that some of the ingenuity was lost in translation from womens to mens. However, I for one will sadly miss it. With that, I present a few personal highlights.











Sadly missed or good riddance?

Images from Men's Style

QED's Story of a Mistake

Just couldn't help sharing this wonderful short by the incomprehensibly talented folk of QED. Their menswear - I assume - features in all its Berliner[was kann ich sagen? it's an obsession] geometric glory. Be sure to view and revel in the enjoyable randomness and far-fetched philosophy of it all.

Video from QED's Iqons page

MAN FW 0809

No pix as of yet, unfortunately, but footage of the collections has been released. It really does remain to be seen what's on offer here but from a quick glance at below-par quality Youtube vids I have managed to decipher big, black and bounteous from James Long, somewhat Berliner, draped and loose pieces from Hans Christian Madsen and looks from Topman Design proving the the retailer isn't all about flash-in-the-pan trends.



James Long




Hans Christian Madsen




Topman Design


More info here.

Comme des Garçons in Speedo waters.

I'm in no way a sports fanatic or, well, even an enthusiast, but swimming and antics involving water do interest me to a greater extent so news of Rei Kawakubo's latest collaboration with Speedo was welcome.

Why the hell do I care since I'm not a professional swimmer? - I hear you ask, simply because the CdG FS LZR Racer looks incredible in all its superhero, second-skin-tight glory. And it's not just a looker, there's a decent concept too. Kawakubo - who has collaborated for the past three years - has said she drew inspiration from the Japanese character Kokuro - by the calligrapher Inoue Yu-ichi - which roughly translates as 'heart, mind and spirit' or in these circumstances, "I'm in it to win".



The suit which possesses the uncanny ability to reduce muscle vibration and fatigue will be manufactured in three silhouettes for each gender, including a full-body suit with no arms, a knee-length full-body suit and a full-body suit with an open back.

Images from WWD and Speedo

Gofficism

Just last week I made my monthly excursion to the cinema, our cinema complete with becomingly sticky floor, outrageously overpriced popcorn and tatty seats, it was, as I had left it, only worse now. But I didn't mind particularly as the film started promptly once I had bum on seat, as it were.

And what a film it was. "Sweeney Todd" is definitely old hat for a lot of you considering varying release dates but I just couldn't ignore the opportunity to plug Burton's masterful eye and the marvellous produce of his insatiable hunger for visual beauty. I'm not donning film critic boots here but am more concerned with the Gothic costume we all know and love which was so astoundingly enrapturing in Burton's interpretation of the hit musical. Although I fear Costume Designer Colleen Atwood's somewhat too stage-y creations are approaching over-exposure in Burton's continuous string of dark and quirk-fest offerings I could appreciate those featured in Todd.

Having considered the below, who couldn't?



Gothicism is a notable trait of Burton's, however, it's not familiar territory for menswear designer Robert Geller who's FW 08 09 collection proved he too could meddle in the dark arts. And meddle he did, quite well, might I add. What was predominantly macabre militarism was shot through with dandyism of the undead variety and some bikers akin to bats out of hell. Maybe I was too liberal with the hyperbole there, it wasn't quite that extravagant but still there was a distinct tinge of gloom. The sole respite was the infrequent appearance of some sickly shade of "sulphur" which, frankly, I could have done without.









Still, hats off to the Goffs.

Images from Men's Style and Variety.com

Oomph from Ervell

There is a common misconception a great many people possess, that the preferred aesthetic of many an NY-showing designer is nondescript, puritan-plain neutrality. And who am I to deem them wrong? Fashion is after all, subjective. I really don't think its disputable, though, that this acute reservedness was almost rife in Patrik Ervell's FW 0809 collection.

Save for one detail, one glorious, luxuriant detail - gold. Yes, gold was what saved - for me - Patrik Ervell's collection, well not saved it from condemnation as such, more saved it from serving as an embodiment of that notion that menswear dictates conservativeness and abstention. It was, instead, a symbol of visual splendour.











A note on the title. If "oomph" is good enough for Tim Blanks, "oomph" is sufficient for me.

Images from Men's Style

F.B.A. 2008

FBA 2008 - Voting has Begun!

Another year, more quality fashion/style blogging. Don't let the lack of testosterone on the nominees list get you down...

Get voting!
Much luck to everyone!

Grandad Dunhill and Jocular Jones

It's most likely old news to all of you by now but Kim Jones, renowned London-based menswear designer and pioneer of the electric 80s club scene, is set to blow the dust off quintessentially British label - Dunhill. It was reported just last week [yes, I know, am painfully, frustratingly slow with the latest!] that Jones has assumed the role of creative director of the brand and has also - unfortunately - left his own-name brand to veg for a while until he identifies a time fit for rejuvenating it.

Speaking of rejuvenation, there's really no better choice than Jones for instigating some of that at Dunhill. His penchant for the mixing of muted neons and greys, streetwise baggy tees and soccer-style image is sure to ruffle a few Dunhill-loyal feathers. Famous for its rather classic menswear, which some even denounce as 'fuddy-duddy', and distinguished leather goods, Dunhill is unquestionably a British house in every sense of the word. A brief scanning of their site informs one of; Jude Law's exclusive appearance in the SS 08 campaign and Dunhill's mission statement which incorporates four key collections - Signature, Travelling, Recreation and Modern Heritage or - if you're not a 50 year old, country-house-residing 'maverick gentleman' - bland wear made bold. And yet, not quite bold enough.





Enter KJ - who, I forgot to mention above has also relinquished that fruitful Umbro arrangement...for shame. His aesthetic, let's be honest, doesn't exactly correlate to Dunhill's preference for the conservative but this is what excites me the most. It truly is a marriage made in sartorial heaven - KJ, whose own line has reputedly left him...dissatisfied...financially, and the grandaddy Dunhill who is in desperate need of some youthful vibrance and know-how. I can only wish Jones the best in his endeavours and congratulate Dunhill on their wise decision...and applaud the creation of..

...these motoring coats, which can only grow more stupendous with the addition of a KJ tweak.

Opinions?





Images from Dunhill, Men's Style and PatrickMcmullan via Men's Style