OntFront On Top

I do cherish those moments in which one discovers an inimitable designer/brand previously unknown to them. Case in point: delectable Dutch OntFront. A brief sojourn at their streamlined website informs one they've only shown twice: for SS09 and just recently in Frankfurt for AW0910, which surprises to me no end considering the standard of tailoring and evident experience featured in their collections. Their latest showing for AW0910 has particularly enticed me. Inspired by the decadence of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia's dress this collection boasts so many luxe details it's almost blinding - in a positive way (if there is one regarding blindness) of course, not in the brash, bling-tastic sense.



Most striking about the whole affair are the unconvential military details (lean double-breasted suit jackets, epaulettes etc.) and the juxtaposition of ostentatious luxury (the satin and embroidery in rich jewel tones) with casual pieces (souped-up baseball jackets anyone?). Gimme.

Images from OntFront by Carston Friese & Philip Hubenthal

Pugh for Dior Homme perhaps?

Could it be my slightly derisive judgement of Gareth Pugh's menswear debut was not shared by the fashion heavyweights? Perchance. LVMH heiress Delphine Arnault took much interest in Pugh's first offering by sitting front-row, and LVMH - it has been reported - is sponsoring the creation of Pugh's intergalactic garments. This has given rise to the rumour that Pugh is either in discussion with LVMH regarding consulting work for Dior Homme or the taking-over of the veritably talented Kris Van Assche's position altogether. Interestingly Kaiser Karl has committed a henious act which has considerably lessened my good deal of respect for him, by "advancing Pugh's candidacy for Dior Homme". For shame.

Image from Men's Style

Pugh for "Predator" ?

I had vowed not to do any more show review type posts since I don't have the time to give the requisite attention to all the designers that deserve it. However, since its his first exclusively menswear affair I though Gareth Pugh deserved of a little back-patting. Anyway, who better to encapsulate the steely, noir survival theme that's been so evident on FW09's runways?

Alas, it is still Pugh and older Male Mode readers (do you even exist?) might recall I'm not his most dedicated fan. Why? Consider glancing below...

We're not all raving to metamorphose into some drag-tastic, braided cyborg.

Images from Men's Style

Disco Boots and more...

It seems even the distinctly feminine menswear has not evaded the aesthetic of hardiness which is so rampant on the runways for FW09. Tisci sent out GIs clad in leggings of knit and leather for Givenchy. I shan't lie, some pairs, laced extensively, had me salivating a little. Also, tasteful bandage for men! The Léger-esque technique appeared in shirts and shoes, the latter being a fusion of said bandage in ashen grey over midnight blue, or in the case of the thigh-high boots, a glittering fabric which resembled a night-sky with disco leanings. Black and related shades featured heavily (almost to the exclusion of any other colour) lending to that sombre, yet pleasingly classical tone that's been felt at other shows so far.

This is just Tisci's second menswear collection for Givenchy. Who knows what wonders he'll conjure for SS10?

Images from Men's Style

McQueen Rules Reign

Feeling utterly spent after researching gender and representation in film: activity, passivity and the "gaze" etc., I reckoned I'd browse Men's Style for the latest from the shows. Much to my surprise this didn't provide respite from said gender representations but brought it all flooding back again. Alexander McQueen has fashioned a new, singular and transmogrified masculine. Entitled "The McQueensbury Rules" the FW 09 collection featured gaunt brutes sporting mercilessly exact, tailored pieces. Again, keeping in vein with Prada's sartorial survival tactics McQueen showed leathers (only this time they appeared even more unyielding, top prize to the butcher's apron), and furs in black and maroon.

I tried to refrain from criticizing the codpieces but it's pointless. They are pointless. Here's hoping this "survival" theme that's emerging doesn't provoke full-on body armour, McQueen's breastplates are sufficient, thanks.

Images from Men's Style

"Survival..."

It's been a lifetime coming but I think I may have actually found a Prada menswear collection I am wholly enamoured by, and no unconvincing cross-dressing this time! Miuccia's latest showing, for FW 09, was apparently inspired by the general notion of "Survival" and her resolute belief that "to survive, you have to be strong". Hence, the abundance of gleaming metal studs and almost liquid, yet suitably robust leather. I was even enticed by the palette this time 'round: largely deep black, but also white in the form of crisp shirts and aforementioned studs, and subtle shots of alluringly garish orange, as well as midnight blues which I've come to find droolworthy. I hate to think of myself as conservativ when it comes to dress but it seems a return to classicism (albeit with a truly Prada twist) was what I wanted all along.

The shoes of course can only speak for themselves (read: someone for God's sake purchase me a pair now).

PS. Hello to all the beautifully bedecked bloggers that attended the brunch yesterday! Was hugely enjoyable and insightful meeting you all. Big it up for Annmarie and the Dylan!

Images from Men's Style

Extremity and Illusion

Once again I find myself alerted to unimitable talent by the unimitably talented Susie Bubble and Dazed Digital. This time 'round I'm simultaneously hankering after and pondering intensely the work of 23-year old Central St. Martins graduate Xiao Xiao Dong. Her plays on proportion are unbridled, the product of "printed shapes and rectangular frames", these are what I can truly describe - with that so overused word - as innovative. Never before have infantile prints, soft, muted greens and overt exaggeration been so appealing.

Find the interview here.

Images from Dazed Digital

Raf, redeemed.

Ok so the Fred Perry gear was disappointing but Simons' Eastpak collabs are invariably things to rave about. Feast on these...

Worth raving about in this particular case is the fusion of old-school leather luggage features: buckles and tags, with modern, slick fabrics, namely - metallic leathers. Covetable indeed, and reassuring that the whole collection seems representative of what Raf (for me) is all about: clean, refined and sleek contemporary chic. Also, it's the last offering from this most productive partnership, bag your Raf Simons-Eastpak while you can.

Images from oki-ni

Verging on naff, Raf.

I'm aware designers do have to garner some funds to actually sustain themselves but resorting to a collaboration with an irritatingly conversative brand, the result of which appears forced and entirely dissimilar to the designer's own unique aesthetic, is a step too far on the sell-out scale. For SS09, Simons showed severed tuxedos and now he's rehashing Fred Perry classics in garish colours, which have been hailed as innovative due to the subtle difference of a loose weave.

He already has Jil Sander, isn't that enough?

That said, I do quite like these Thom Browne-esque brilliantly blue pants.

Images from Men's Style and Brandish

Style-savvy Swedes

As far as I remember it started with one of those random acts of Myspace friendship: either I befriended PUDEL or those style-savvy Swedes requested my virtual friendship and now I find myself a touch in love. And the love it seems is requited as the unisex-label has slashed its prices. Had I not spent close to a month's rent over the sale period you know where any funds I once possessed would be going...

Images from Pudel

A.P.C. Amour

So about those resolutions...it could perhaps be deemed much too late but I'm thinking of finally making my first that I might actually sustain - to get myself some A.P.C. Their carefully crafted and pleasingly unfussy pieces of impressive quality have long been on my wish-list and now, what with these gasp-inducing reductions may make a transition to my wardrobe. Chief among the coveted are these evergreen stretch skinnies...

And these sleek and subtle shirts...

Note: The "Zoom" is a remnant from the screen caps I took and so doesn't represent a functional zoom feature on these pics. As much as I do enjoy a flash-tastic designer/brand website, they're not conducive to sharing the pictorial love.

Images from APC

One last hurrah? Please don't...

Recently the powers that be at publishing monster Condé Nast came to the sudden realisation that Men's Vogue wasn't deserving of its then format - a full, independent magazine, and so it was goodbye to stand-alone and staid bastion of the menswear-conservative and hello to the slightly less tiresome (purely due to its reduced mass) supplement form of the boring man's bible. It appears that now said 'powers that be' may truly have been enlightened and decided to cease producing this woeful excuse for a men's lifestyle magazine. Huzzah!

Do note that I'm not entirely offended by Men's Vogue, it's just this post does sound better when it's caustic.

Images from Megcabot and Men's Vogue

Almost flawless

It's a rare occurence that one finds a documentary that is both informative and hugely pleasurable to view. 'Seamless', a film by Doug Keeve, is just one of those rare occurences and manages to convey to the viewer, through the use of brief designer-profiling and intimate designer interviews, the unsatiable appetite of the ready-to-wear phenomenon, whilst simultaneously provoking a subtle yet unmistakably emotional response from the viewer. Doo. Ri Chung, Alexandre Plokhov of Cloak, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough of Proenza Schouler and many other NY-based designers feature. Watch if only to be charmed by Doo. Ri's endearing 'rents.

Image courtesy of CDUniverse

What resolutions?!

After several Coronas, one too many Baby Guinnesses, and tequila to top it all off my stomach's not exactly gung-ho about the year ahead but the remainder of self is more than excited for what 2009 has in store. Anywhat, instead of that staid activity known as resolution-making I decided I'd engage in a spot of browsing to counter the relentless gastro-churning. Tees are essential to any man's wardrobe, never moreso than during the Spring/Summer season. And so...



Wong Kar Wai for Opening Ceremony



Maison Martin Margiela



3.1 Phillip Lim

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Images courtesy of eLuxury and Oki-Ni