Saturday, 28 February 2009

Eau Fantastique.

...would have made a far superior name don't you think? Everyone's favourite dapper duo Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom of Fantastic Man are set to release a cologne inspired by the biannual menswear bible itself. The scent, which combines bergamot, incense, lavender and patchouli is sure to make for a heady concoction. The cologne which was the result of a collaboration between the aforesaid and Ben Gorham of Byredo will launch in Colette on March 9th, followed in a matter of weeks by Barneys, NYC. Am curious to see if it'll be worth my refraining from applying the copious amounts of A*Men by Thierry Mugler...
Image from Men's Style

Friday, 27 February 2009

MAN alive.

From JW Anderson's reinvention of old world sartorial wonder to Christopher Shannon's high voltage fluoro-sportswear and Topman Design's interpretation of the insouciance of 1950s Soho to James Long's transfixing fusion of technique and texture. More details and footage over at Topman.
Image (edited) from Topman

Wednesday, 25 February 2009

Elated for the eModa Giveaway? You should be...



eModa, retailer of exclusive fashion (labels including Y-3, True Religion, Alessandro Dell'Acqua and so much more...) is an American purveyor of all things sartorially outstanding which has also just launched its new German online shopping destination at eModa.de (for the Deutschen out there...there's quite a few of few according to Analytics!). In what is something of a first for Male Mode eModa has v. kindly provided Male Mode readers with the chance to win a $50 gift card! Better still, there's THREE up for grabs (one per winner, naturally). You lucky individuals you!
And since I'm such a swell fellow I thought I'd refrain from making this affair devilishly difficult. All you need do is answer the following...

Name the Danish designer who creates pieces for both men and women, mentioned in the Circus interview (find it here).

Kindly email your entries to cillian@male-mode.com with your full name and address. All entries featuring the correct answer will be entered into a draw. The competition will remain open 'til March 6th! Get posting and inform your fashionable friends!

Tuesday, 24 February 2009

Leisure-time's Loot.

Since myself and a film-friend had a sizeable lump of time to kill before the screening of The Searchers (serious snoring occurred...) on Monday evening we hit Dublin's Camden St. and George's St. for somewhat of a charity-shop raid. It didn't yield as many stellar items as I had hoped for...still, I did score this off-white ShirtStudio Stvdio shirt by Jeff Banks for €7.50. Nothing astounding at first glance but the British crown crest (for want of a knowledge of regal emblems...) throughout was what convinced me...






Also, although I'm attempting to purchase a little less Topman considering a good chunk of my wardrobe seems to originate from there I found the cardigan below for a mere €3.50. Again, this isn't going to win any most-innovative-of-the-year awards but when paired with some pastels it's positively enlivened and for such a small price, my inner-student couldn't possibly protest.

*Blazer featured is by Junx de Luxe. Bowtie is vintage from Antwerp.

Monday, 23 February 2009

Geller's Gothica.




So, unsurprisingly, essays on and Godard and 'counter-cinema' and German literature are not conducive to forming thoughts/musings on the latest menswear showings. Still, I had to snatch some time between watching Vivre Sa Vie and charity shopping later (cannae wait!) to convey somewhat my utter elation regarding Robert Geller's (a favourite of mine) FW09 collection. Leather, impressively large knits and evening details galore, this was truly spectacular. Add to that the general vampiric ambience, a spare (as if drained of life) runway and the appearance of Taylor Fuchs and I'm sold.




Anyone else revelling in this Jack the Ripper vibe so popular for FW09?




Images from Men's Style.

Saturday, 21 February 2009

An Embodiment of Eclecticism.

Circus is probably the most forward, contemporary and eclectic retail destination in Ireland. Boasting staff with comprehensive knowledge of, and passionate appreciation for, the designers it stocks Circus sets itself apart from the mass of aesthetically indifferent, generic stores that populate much of Dublin. Here, in a gallery-esque space the work of such innovators as Henrik Vibskov rubs shoulders with pieces from Unconditional and Ashish. I could wax lyrical further but the following details what I want to say and more...


When and why did you open Circus?

Circus was opened in July 2007. We were initially four partners in the store, but are now three: Aisling Farinella, Fiona Mullen & Damien Gahan
We opened Circus because we all shared a love for contemporary and innovative fashion design. It started out as an opportune meeting of two girls buying vintage (Ciara & Aisling) and a couple (Fiona and Damien) retailing contemporary designers in their previous store Proxy. Since then it has grown into a very special store selling very special pieces.




What is your mission statement/what do you hope to achieve with the
store?

I guess with Circus we want to broaden the availability of alternative and conceptual fashion design. Our clothes aim to please anybody interested in design aesthetic. We use our store space as an exhibition space at various points throughout the year, to cross over and highlight the relationship between fashion and art. Our idea of fashion should appeal to lots of people across the board. There are so many ways that we incorporate stye into our lives and fashion is a big one.


Do you feel Dublin/Ireland in general is lacking in retail spaces
offering smaller, but often critically esteemed designers?

Yes we could definitely do with more! There are some people stocking great designers here though including Dolls on Clarendon street and Smock on Drury street.


How did you garner such a talented group of designers to stock?

Well Damien and Fiona brought some of the designers we stock including Henrik Vibskov from their previous store. We travel together to Paris for fashion week four times a year and also try to check out the scene in as many other cities as possible. We all spend a lot of time on the internet too and Damien is the most knowledgeable person regarding designers (and cooking!)that I have ever met.


Has the global economic collapse affected Circus particularly?

Well we are fortunate that we have not been affected greatly as yet. The shop is very much homegrown and we look after all aspects of the work between the three of us. Our customers are still shopping as we are providing investment pieces as opposed to disposable clothing. Really everyone is being careful with their money, but people really think about what they are buying when they shop in Circus anyway. A lot of our customers would be interested in the designers they are purchasing and where the clothes are being made.

You're currently exhibiting the work of designers of various mediums as
part of Cheap as Chips. Are there any future projects/exhibitions planned
for the store?

Yes we have an installation from artist Joseph Coveney planned for this year and some other fun events during the year. Cheap as Chips is a definite for next January again too! It has been a massive success.


Who's your favorite menswear designer that you stock?

My favourite menswear designer was Siv Stoldal. Her collections are conceptually conceived and I really admire her design approach. Unfortunately though she is skipping a season so we won't see any of her pieces in Circus for a while. After Siv it has to be Henrik Vibskov. I love it all and the crazier the better. I am probably responsible for all the multi coloured leggings we bring in!

Who's your favourite womenswear designer that you stock?

Diana Orving is amazing. She is so young and has no formal training. Her clothes actually flow and every piece combines soft beauty with strong construction. But that said, I personally like to wear Carin Wester. The fit is perfect for me, being a little on the small side!

Do you plan to add more lines to the store in the future?

Yes every season we hope to bring in somebody new. For menswear we have April 77 and Carin Wester arriving. April 77 is a cool Parisian collection, formed by a music label and producing great denim and tees for Spring/Summer. Carin Wester is more tailored and delivers real casual sophistication...and it's well priced too!
For womens we have our first collection from print gods Eley Kishimoto this season. Very exciting!

Circus is distinguished by its neon lighting and white space, who was
responsible for the store's aesthetic?

That's a team result. We all have to agree on everything about Circus. We pick each piece out individually and won't buy unless we are all happy with every one! The white space is important too for exhibition and the variety of things we stock. And pink was the obvious answer when we decided on a neon sign! There was of course much serious research involved in every aspect too.

For those of you so inclined Circus stock can be purchased at their elegantly spare online store. Also, the real thing is to be found within Powerscourt Town Centre, 59 Sth. William St., Dublin 2.
Much thanks to Aisling, Damien and Fiona for their time.

An eagle-eye for style.


Had absolutely no idea this existed but am unspeakably glad it does. Vogue Hommes Japan has a blogspot whereon you can find editorial highlights and the covers so (preview cover and issue 1) far, which ooze with unimitable style. The latest cover, photographed by Hedi Slimane, for issue 2 (out March 10th) can be found above. Here's hoping (or is it knowing considering VHJ's team?) the content will be equally unorthodox. Props to Nicola Formichetti and Kazuohiro Saito for this inarguably forward magazine.

Image for Vogue Hommes Japan.

Thursday, 19 February 2009

Emperor Indeed...

Despite my painfully broke state I ventured south to Dundrum on Monday night to catch what I'd heard was a decidedly average attempt (Valentino: The Last Emperor) at encapsulating the life and work of couturier and Italian legend Valentino Garavani. As a film student/Dublin-dweller it'd be pretty poor if I didn't make it to at least one screening of the Jameson Dublin International Film Festival...
Unfprtunately I can't recall who it was exactly that misinformed me but if I could you can rest assured they'd receive a good scolding if I did. Not only was this cinematic portrait of a relentlessly demanding, incessantly witty and inarguably grandiose workaholic above average, it was that and some.

The recurrent red weaved so beautifully into the cinematography, the opportunity to witness the subtle (and not so subtle - that pink, sequin-tastic ensemble) details of the embodiments of this man's vision (and the toil of the seamstresses who incidentally handsew everything) and the endearing banter and affecting tension between Giancarlo Giametti (Valentino's self-professed lover and business partner) and the man himself combine to make this film truly enjoyable.

Particularly incentivizing are the quips of Kaiser Karl and some of Valentino's uproariously funny, slightly fattist remarks.


Image from Valentino the Movie.

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

The Black Buoy.

For those of you craving high-quality simplistic chic in the midst of economic collapse, vintage clothing, art books and thrifted goods retailer: The Black Buoy, has generously offered a swell 15% off their first purchase. There, amongst minimalist labels LOLA New York (irreverence in abundance) and Max & Suzanne (particularly intriguing, their collection stemmed from the basic concept of the man's dress shirt) you'll find Downtown STATionary and plenty more to hanker after...



This subtly alluring charcoal shirt and equally attractive double-breasted cropped wool jacket (both from Max & Suzanne) would be the recipients of my discount. Alas, I do plan to eat for the next three months...


Images from The Black Buoy

Tuesday, 17 February 2009

Deets of the Dinner Jacket.

Just a quick note to say that my mug (accompanied by the visages of several much more photogenic bloggers) can now be seen at the Dinner Jacket (the Feb issue > Street Style Dublin), a most commendable Canadian fashion e-zine. Even more commendable photography undertaken by the über-chic girls of Fashion Filosofy.


*Note to self: practice camera-face...

Monday, 16 February 2009

Something more uncommon.

I promise you. A foot fetish I have not (despite the innumerable footwear-related posts recently...), but with the recent influx of manners of adorning them it won't be too much longer before I succumb. The culprits in question are these beautifully understated laceless Oxfords by Common Projects for Patrik Ervell, shown yesterday in NY. Surprising how the emission of one simple element (laces) can transform something from the banal to the most uncommon.

Image from Men's Style

Sunday, 15 February 2009

More large-love.

It's not quite "Love" at first sight for me but definitely commendable and particularly promising considering this is, after all, a Condé Nast cover. As Doyle noted Beth Ditto butt-naked has previously served as cover material (i'm looking at you NME) and so this could be deemed a tad unimaginative for a debut. Still, the colour palette - so reminiscent of Pop's high-voltage sweetness - seems to redeem the mistake. Also, a demure downward glance seems to translate to cover much better than an overtly suggestive smirk...

Images from Flickr and Love Magazine Blog

Experiment, Exploit, Psychosexualise.



I've been following Jaiden James' blog for quite some time now and was pretty stoked when I first came across his (and Rasharn's - under the name Jaiden rVa James) menswear for SS08 which was a painfully hip, sporty/tribal fusion. February 25th 09 sees them present their most recent work, for FW09, to salivating scenesters at London's MAN. They v. kindly agreed to indulge my niggling curiousity...

1. Just what does Jaiden rVa James represent? Can you define the brand's aesthetic?

We cannot define nor limit what we do to one specific title but if we had to we would call the label's aesthetic exploitative and experimental.



2. Why did you decide to dedicate your time to designing menswear? And what is your creative background/experience?

To break all previous conceptions of menswear as a mundane byproduct to womenswear. Rasharn studied at London College of Fashion whilst Jaiden studied at Fashion Retail Academy.

3. You guys tend to incorporate a multitude of styles in your collections e.g. switching from sportswear (SS08) to gender-bending tailored gear (AW08). Do you seek to continue this variety in the future?

Do you know honestly i truly believe this question is one of the most relevant we have been asked in a interview and i must say you are very observant. Each season we approach design simply as we see fit, personally we know that this may cause annoyance as journalists like to brand designers or simply dismiss them as this or that. The landscape of design in general is amazingly diverse and to just simply explore one facet of it would be rather tiresome. Each season is simply a projection of what we are capable of and one day maybe i hope we will be able to create a balance from designing for a luxury label where we will be able to exercise our more refined classic look which i believe A/W 08 was mostly about and a sportswear label in conjunction with a sportswear brand for e.g Umbro By Jaiden rVa James which S/S 08 was about. Then we will be able to explore more in depth those demons that are within us but cannot be unleashed every season thus leaving our own label Jaiden rVa James free for us to experiment and explore as we simply see fit.

4. Do you have a particular male/female muse who inspires your designs?

Hmmm, we would say no but Charlie Porter & Lulu Kennedy both have amazing sense of style that is very inspiring.

5. You're involved in an installation at MAN in London on the 25th. Can you give us a taste of what'll be on show?

Without giving too much away i can say the collection is about psychosexuality and explores both insanity and sexuality.

6. And for fun...I recently read on the LFW site that you guys were inspired by Hitchcock and Hannibal. Do you have a favourite film, regarding the menswear it features?

At the moment Wild One with Marlon Brando, I have yet to see someone look so good in leather, plus we are collaborating with Scott on leather jackets - their classic Perfecto which is what Brando wore though out the film. But honestly 40's & 50's is a golden age for the refined look.

Images from LFW

Saturday, 14 February 2009

I do love a Sunday roast

i-D (as I'm sure you're already aware) has gathered twelve of Britain's most beauteous for a series of covers as part of the March 09 'Best of Britain' issue.

Which do you prefer?



I can't possibly choose myself. Well, I certainly can't state a favourite in terms of aesthetics. However, Naomi's on the ball with her quote...

Image from Fashionologie

Friday, 13 February 2009

And thank God they're not Tabis...

Ever since I had the pleasure of browsing through the Maison Martin Margiela exhibition at MoMu back in Antwerp (a review of which you can find here) my appreciation for, and love of, his (their, for those of you who are loyal to the ethos) work has only deepened. Am especially excited about the arrival of the stunners (much more desirable than the tabis) pictured above, the limited edition MM nail heel boots, on Oki-ni next week. Of which there were only 150 pairs handcrafted.


No way do I possess even half the price of what they're likely to cost but in the midst of economic collapse and a restrictive student-budget one can only remain resolutely positive. So. Some day I will combine these with those luscious, leather shorts shown by Givenchy for SS09, along with a crisp, white shirt with bib detailing and and another dose of leather in the form of my bespoke Lillian (lol!) leather bowtie. So, I suppose you could say I'm on my way...



Images from Men's Style and Oki-ni

Melville et Menswear

I'm invariably peeved when people assume Film Studies students spend their days engaging in nothing but leisurely, goalless film-viewing. That is of course a vital component of the course but only in conjunction with a good deal of mind-warping psychoanalysis and infuriating essay composition. However, when - once in a blue moon - you have the privilege of watching a supremely stylish visual masterpiece such as "Le Samourai" it's easy to see why we're envied by the BESS-heads.

Striking Alain Delon stars as smouldering enigma Jef Costello in this play on the American 'gangster film'. Clad in a highly-detailed, belted camel trench and sharp, grey suit Costello paces the streets of Paris in typical film noir solitude. The fedora, though, which delicately covers Costello's flawlessly groomed hair is what tops the whole affair off. No pun intended.
Watch it now. If only to appreciate Delon's bone-structure and icy blue eyes.
Images from Pearly Stagedoor, Refinery29 and Dear Cinema

Monday, 9 February 2009

London's long-awaited.

For those that haven't heard just yet London Fashion Week has announced its premier 'menswear day' on which thirteen of the British capital's most innovative are set to show their wares. Am especially excited for the return of menswear meister Carolyn Massey, promising newcomer (relatively) Jaiden rVa James and spunky knitwear triumvirate SIBLING's video. February 25th, brace yourselves.

Image (edited by Male Mode) from Sibling London

Sunday, 8 February 2009

Brunch and Bowties.

Blogging benefits don't come much better than this. Despite the early start of 10am, we Dublin fashion bloggers braved treacherous ice and torturous traffic to travel to one of Dublin's most plush hotels - The Clarence for the monthly brunch. Luckily, it was most definitely worth it what with the most ample goody-bags bursting with Clarins goodness and, of course, dishes of the most extravagant order. We feasted on some form of fruit terrine/jelly, a light fruit salad with mascarpone, salmon, rare beef, pancakes, eggs as well as perhaps the most divine selection of pastries I've ever witnessed which was all washed down with a v. chic pink champagne and good, potent coffee. Pity I had that porridge beforehand...

Most importantly, much thanks to Lil of OffShoot for fashioning these terribly charming bowties of black leather and faux-snake! Am overjoyed to be one of her many esteemed couture clients!

Photographic evidence of brunch revelry over where Annmarie imparts her wisdom.

Friday, 6 February 2009

FYI RE: AA.



Gosh, I'm churning out the barmy post titles today. Anywhat, a resounding huzzah is surely in order as American Apparel - as you may have heard in recent months - are set to launch in Ireland. Fashion Filosofy have kindly published the proposed date which is March. The location is of course Grafton St. (that building opposite Trinity...formerly Permanent TSB as far as I'm aware). Just so you know.

Am, in some ways, glad it's freezing here right now. At least the recurring blizzards might prevent avid AA fans from wholly embraching their hysteria and donning the infamous zipper-front bodysuit a lá the recent campaign. I do sometimes wonder whether Don Charney (despite his private affairs) holds any satisfactory understanding of that old concept - taste.


Image from American Apparel

More Kicks: Butchering at its most beauteous...


It's been another of those pleasant days in which I'm alerted to a more than impressive brand, previously unknown to my under-a-stone-residing self. Diet Butcher Slim Skin was founded by punk aficionado and designer with aplomb Hisashi Fukatami in 1997. Based in Tokyo, the brand sets about crafting some of the most detailed and laboriously crafted, attention-grabbing clothing and footwear each season. For SS09 it's 'GASP', a collection sure to leave you breathless.


High shine patent hi-tops. You will be the death of me.

Images from Oki-Ni

Tuesday, 3 February 2009

Fancying Footwear?

Look no further than these three stellar collections, unspeakably different from one other and all the better for it. Also, I really must confess to ye Irish readers that I can't actually use the recent heft of snowfall as an excuse for lusting after new shoes since those I already own seem to insulate sufficiently. However, life's simply too short for excuses.
And so. On to the shoes. Common Projects is a footwear label I've not heard much about. Luckily, intrigue and mystery are two of my favourite phenomena! Oki-ni has kindly informed me, however, that these highly desirable kicks (stunning in their simplicity) are the fruits of industrial designer Prathan Poopat's and graphic designer Flavio Girolami's labour. What's more, each shoe is branded on the heel with a gold propriety size and serial number.

Secondly, there's Rachel Comey's collection for AW09, which features luxuriously soft (no I don't know for sure but, hell, they look it) suedes and leathers in a tasteful-kind-of-shiny blue as well as deeper tones like chocolate brown and ash grey.


To conclude. I previously proclaimed the wonders of edgy London crowd Red by Wolves and shan't reiterate my gushing praise since all of the beautifully captured clobber is to be witnessed on their site.

Images from Oki-ni, Refinery 29 and Red by Wolves @ Myspace

Monday, 2 February 2009

Major Contribution.

What with the ever-increasing number of purveyors of online womenswear-oriented editorial content, it's immensely pleasing to see attention paid to the other sex. Contributing Editor have done just that in launching as a "visual laboratory". The aim of the publication is to provide an independent platform for musical, artistic, photographic, journalistic and generally creative talent, and the results are something. Numerous highly-professional menswear stories nestle between runway reports and, just recently, a photo-story of Shipley and Halmos' Soho studio.

And it's not solely threads, Editor also feature artist profiles and and more indie bands than you could shake a skinny tie at. This is one contribution to the world of menswear you should really check out. Seriously.
Images from Contributing Editor