Dapper Japonism.

Admittedly, I've not given Japan Fashion Week the attention I've only v. recently discovered it deserves. A duo of menswear designers proved particularly eye-catching and convinced me that I won't be letting this event slip under the radar any season soon.

Firstly, the luxe of two-tone blazers juxtaposed with the casual ease of graphic-patterned trousers or combined with plenty more edgy, tailored-wear - all courtesy of Heath by St. Martins' grad Gentaro Noda. I'm yearning to wear the two-tone grey/black-lapels blazer with the two-tone trousers for two, captivating dimensions of colour.







Then @Izreel's (this label by Kanagawa native Kazuhiro Takakura) urban affairs infused with scholar-chic. Am enamoured of that grey knit and there are no words for this zig-zag cut with asymmetric panels apart from: thumbs up for yet more two-tone. Perhaps the styling was a little weak but the blazer (plus the addition of the perfectly placed skinny bowtie) itself more than redeems the look.

Images from Japan Fashion Week

A little gaga for Superga.

Doesn't nautical seem to be one of those themes/trends that invariably rears its head each Spring/Summer season? If not for menswear then womenswear and vice versa, and it's something I've not taken to wholly to be frank, not least for fear of appearing like an extra from some Classic Hollywood period musical or Jean Paul Gaultier fragrance campaign...

Superga Tricolour Deck Shoes

This year I reckon I'll give it a bash though...well, I resigned to not being able to refuse when I came across these superbly bitchin' Superga deck shoes with their trio of matte navy, red and white. No, they're not shiny which most of my shoes are given my disposition but a brief respite from all the patent couldn't hurt. Much.


Topman Tricolour Plimsolls

Also, a recent browsing of Topman's Grafton St. flagship store yielded this pair of perfect plims which could satisfy the colour-craving but unfortunately aren't of the deck style. Although, that bank balance...

Images from my-wardrobe and Topman

Timekeeping 2k9.

One thing I don't have an innate talent (or learned for that matter...) for is accessorizing. Aside from my penchant for bowties and thin neckties I find myself more often than not entirely unadorned excepting clothing. Unusually, for someone who claims to have an active interest in menswear and men's style I don't even have a watch to my name. Somehow, though, with my recent discovery of Perrelet's highly luxurious set of timekeepers I get the sense everything could be about to change. Well, chances are, the debilitatingly tight student budget will prevent my owning one of these but they've certainly inspired me to perhaps start setting aside for that all-important, and - some would say - integral component of a man's wardrobe.

Unlike the offerings from Tag Heuer which are inspired by golf and cars (am thoroughly disinterested as you might've guessed...) and the inherent bling-tasticness of Rolex pieces, Perrelet offers several ranges of wristwatches, each with its own specific concept and distinguished design that invariably set themselves apart from other models. I'm a little enamoured with the rather singular set of Regulators with Retrograde Hour. A regulator is, I'm told, a watch on which the hours and minutes are indicated separately, which can only mean less time spent staring blankly at the clockface trying to decipher what time it is exactly (this occurs more than frequently in my case...). The retrograde function whereby the hand at the end of its cycle returns to the original position which is just a little swell. In shades of classic deep black, rich chocolate brown and cobalt blue (scour on the site or blog for alternatives) these seem all a little too tempting.



Also, kudos to Men's Rag for informing me of this stellar, ensnaring leather creation from Christopher Bailey for Burberry. Don't you just picture yourself a little wrapped up in it? (ho ho!).

Burberry Watch Image from Men's Rag

Bespoken For.

What with the overwhelming array of newsletters from online style bibles now available (many of which I subscribe to, much to my inbox's chagrin...) I've found it to be a sorting-the-chaff-from-the-wheat situation. Most definitely of the wheat category (apologies for getting all agrarian...) is Dazed Digital who consistently bring inventive labels/designers previously unknown to me, to my full attention. Example: Bespoken.



Designed and manufactured exclusively in England the produce of Bespoken is inspired by the old English tradition of bespoke tailoring (something I really do hope to learn more about, and for those of a similar disposition see Style Salvage Steve who seems much more versed about this process). The SS09 collection boasts what appears to be immaculately cut blazers with v. pleasingly precise lapels in understated shades of charcoal and pale grey. What I love most though is assortment of collars which more than satisfies my desire for variety, there's point, cutaway and wing collars to name but a few. Thoroughly lovely lookbook to boot.



NOTE: Well done to the Nokia Young Fashion Designer Awards winners and all entrants! It was an incredibly enjoyable affair despite lengthy standing and slight head pains/spasms due to resounding volume pumping from the speaker behind me. Met fashion maven Susie Bubble who is indescribably lovely and failed to secure an introduction to Godfrey Deeny or Brendan Mullane, however the free Perrier mohitos mitigated this somewhat. Find photo coverage at Fashion Filosofy and Dublin Streets.

Images from Dazed Digital

my-wardrobe.com's Lee Douros:

I'll not pretend I don't complain. In true Irish spirit I seem to have no bother in identifying something that irritates me to no end, and then proceeding to moan about it ad infinitum. For example, affordable and desirable menswear isn't as widely available online as I'd like it to be. Working towards easing my anger in this respect is my-wardrobe.com, which has just recently launched its mens division. Lee Douros, my-wardrobe.com menswear buyer, indulged my curious disposition...

1. Having spent some time at Liberty this isn't your first buying position. What's your background regarding fashion - is it strictly buying?

Previous to my role at Liberty I was in my home town of Melbourne working for two independent young designer boutiques as manager/buyer. These were both largely stocking Australian young designer labels. I also squeezed in a BA in Gold and Silversmithing while I was there.

2. I've heard you have an accomplice as part of the my-wardrobe.com team! Is it just the two of you who carry out the process of purchasing for the store?

Luisa De Paula is the Buying Director at my-wardrobe.com, overseeing the Men’s and Women’s. We work closely together to decide on strategy and brand mix. Her input is invaluable as she has over 15 years experience in buying for the UK market.

3. The pieces you've selected for my-wardrobe.com seem to be largely of the understated cool/minimalist disposition (APC, Nudie, Helmut Lang etc.). Was this pared down aesthetic intentionally chosen or did it just occur organically?

Luisa and I were very conscious to make the first season appeal to a broad cross-section of the contemporary male consumer by presenting some well-known favourites (Paul Smith, Polo Ralph Lauren, Mulberry, John Smedley, Barbour) together with some current cool brands (APC, Acne, Vivienne Westwood, McQ, Raf by Raf Simons), and a few new-comers (Velour, Cold Method). So you can see that we have various aesthetics covered and are presenting the offer almost like a department store with different rooms. For AW09 the brand mix will grow considerably with some much loved names.

4. Recently, menswear was awarded more attention than ever before at the MAN shows and presentations in London. Do you feel this increased interest in young menswear-design talent will be nurtured even further next year?

I think there was a great buzz this season due to the grouping of the Men’s shows together. I really hope this continues and grows, as menswear really should be given a platform in London much more than it has previously. There are so many key menswear brands based in the UK, it’s a shame they have to take their shows to other countries to ensure they are seen.

6. SS09 collections seemed to purvey a more feminized aesthetic for men (abundance of polka dots, bright yellow hues, deep v-necks and curved, rather than structured shoulders). How do you personally feel about this look? Do you think men would embrace or abhor it?

I think there are some elements that men will embrace, but for the large part it can be tricky to wear a piece that is overly styled in this way. Colour and pattern will be easier to pull off while still looking current. I think it is important that new purchases will fit into your existing wardrobe with ease. I’ve made the mistake too often of buying something that I can’t then wear with any existing item in my wardrobe.

7. Considering the restrictive economic climate, investments rather than disposable fashion/impulse buys have been encouraged, what staple items should men be purchasing now?

I have always thought it important to have well made, classic pieces that have a longevity to them. For example, a Mulberry Brynmore Bag is a classic that will last you years. The Barbour International Jacket has been around for decades gone and will be for decades more. Add to this the eponymous polo tops by Ralph Lauren, a grey wool suit by Paul Smith London, and a pair of Nudie’s Average Joe Dry Jeans and the backbone to your wardrobe is there. Once you have these key classic pieces, it is always so easy to buy the new season key items to wear with them.

8. What three items (clothing/accessories) can't you live without?

At the moment I am living in my APC jeans, Helmut Lang Slim Fit Shirts and the Barbour International Jacket in a black coated linen fabric.

9. What's your favourite film?

I went to see John Waters in Hammersmith last year, and have since been having a bit of a retrospective of his films. Cry Baby is golden, and all his films have the most fantastic soundtracks.

Much thanks to Emily and Lee at, and images from, my-wardrobe.com

Brunching and Buying Bliss.

I'll admit it was with the slightest bit of trepidation that I set out on Saturday morning achingly early for the 8th Fashion Bloggers' Brunch. We were set to head to Kildare Village. I'd not heard much previous to the excursion and the only brands I knew they had for sure was...Wolford, which is great if you're an all-about-the-tights lass but if you're like me a non-cross-dressing male, well not so much (although some knee-highs couldn't hurt for Summer...).


To my v. pleasant surprise a wealth of favourite labels lay before us including Reiss, Bally and All Saints. Needless to say I took full advantage of the generous gift card and VIP discount bestowed upon us bloggers, snapping up two mesmerisingly soft Reiss cardigans (below) for the miniscule sum of €29. Kildare, we love you (the pink bubbly and copious amount of Italian culinary delights didn't hurt either...).



I reckon I'll be wearing this sans additional over/under-layers when this ice-cube of a country decides to heat up somewhat but for now it's solely over a sheer pale pale almost steely blue Ungaro shirt I scoped out recently. Neat-o.

Much thanks to Annmarie as always. Despite bus mix-ups etc. she got us out of the midlands mist and back to the security of the capital, all the while simply emanating chic.

Nuffink wild or Jean Paul Gaultier.

And another celebrity-owned, founded and designed collection is born. Liam Gallagher has created a limited edition array of clothing inspired by his own parka-favouring personal style to be worn, naturally, with his attitudinal swagger. Despite my usual detestation for such projects and distinct lack of adoration for Gallagher's music I'm quite excited about this upcoming affair. Entitled Pretty Green the collection's set to launch in July. Suede desert boots, classic trench coats and parkas (obv), in the words of the man himself, "***king tasteh".

Note: I can't help but disapprove of his scathing judgement of the skinny-indie aesthetic. While it is a look that's becoming somewhat tired I don't think I'll ever cease purchasing pointy-shoes...

Image and video from Pretty Green

Fashion Filosofy: Documenting Ireland's Streetstyle Revolution.

When I first started researching fashion/style-related blogs in Ireland, prior to launching Male Mode, this was the first I happened upon. Combining streetstyle snaps, news and reviews on Dublin-based cultural events as well as their own ingenious editorials, the Fashion Filosofy team (fronted by Arsheen Qasim) offer some of the most fashion-forward Irish content online. Arsheen graciously granted me a few moments of her time to be my generally pesky self...

1. Many people consider Fashion Filosofy to be the premier Irish fashion blog. Why was it launched, and who undertook the challenge of doing so?

I guess ‘premier’ in the sense that we were the very first blog to represent and showcase the personal style on Dublin and Irish streets in the format of a streetstyle blog, but as regards lifestyle (including fashion) there was Style Treaty before us and for beauty of course Beaut.ie!

I used to waste hours perusing the streetstyle sites from around the world when I realised Ireland didn’t have one. So my friend Linzi [McGlennon] and I decided to set one up and the two of us set off with our cameras roaming the streets! (with much trepidation because we were worried Irish people might be that much shyer and probably a bit more wary. Fortunately, we were wrong.)



2. I've found truly unique style in Ireland to be a "diamond-in-the-rough" situation. Is it difficult to scope out trendsetters on the streets of Dublin?

It can be. Because we’re such a small city and geographically and culturally close to the UK, we tend to emulate what’s happening in London and also more recently Berlin, and Scandinavian countries. It depends on what you’re looking for. We don’t necessarily look for anyone in costume or someone doing something drastic. What’s attractive is how someone is comfortable in what they’re wearing. Sometimes it captures on the camera quite well and sometimes it doesn’t translate. In a way, style can be subjective, we don’t claim to be the arbiters of fashion or the fashion police, we just try and take pictures of ordinary people doing something interesting with their clothes. It may not be something we’d choose to wear personally, so what we put up isn’t necessarily reflective of our tastes but an archive of what we think some might find inspiring. It’s also a collection of style stories of people from different walks of life, different age groups, various subcultures and backgrounds. It’s more than just about the clothes.

But I think even though Dublin may not have the fashion legacy of New York or Paris I think our city has a great spirit and a pretty cool bohemian vibe and part of it means being laid-back and comfortable and not caring, and that, is its true essence.



3. You guys have started featuring your own fashion stories/photoshoots on FF. How do you go about the process, and is this something you hope to continue with?

Yes definitely. It just seemed like a natural progression from taking photos of stylish people on the streets (which are almost like mini-shoots in themselves with each photo representing its own fashion narrative) to creating our own fashion stories. There isn’t much deliberation over the process, most of the photographers, make-up artists, ‘models’ we use are friends or people who want to collaborate and we just brainstorm themes and ideas and go for it! Most of us involved are either starting out in our fields be it photography or modelling, or just doing it for fun, so we’re all novices wanting to do something creative and enjoyable. Hopefully in that process, we produce something interesting.

4. Knowing Dublin's style-savvy so well, what's your opinion on the way Irish men dress?
I think Irish guys are quite laid back in the way they dress which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. As I said it can be charming. But it wouldn’t hurt to try and take some chances sometimes. To be daring and have fun with it.

5. What denotes true style in a man? Subtle details? Caution-to-the-wind ballsy-ness? What?

Being comfortable and confident in what he’s wearing! Immaculate attention to detail also counts.



6. Motorola Dublin Fashion Week is fast approaching. Any designers you're particularly excited about?

I like Joanne Hynes, Kate&Ava have some pretty dresses and Caoimhe O’ Dwyer does diaphanous dressing like no other. There’s a lot of conceptual fashion in Irish design, a lot of occasion wear and formal wear but I feel that we’ve yet to see some young, cutting edge fashion coming from Irish designers, something that’s maybe a bit more youthful, fun and frivolous, aimed at the younger set.

Images from, and with thanks to Arsheen, Linzi, Sarah and Anahita of Fashion Filosofy

CFDA Nominees 2009

2009 Nominees Scott Sternberg & Patrik Ervell

In addition to much drunken, green-tinged revelry the announcement of the CFDA nominees also occurred yesterday. Menswear Design of the Year will be taken by one of the following: Michael Bastian (not his most avid fan but I suppose he's somewhat deserved considering this marks his third nomination...), Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders (nears the epitome of NYC-chic) or Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein (an effective minimalist, colour-flecked aesthetic if ever I saw one).

Up for the Swarovski Award for Menswear are my those that compose my favourite NY triumvirate of Patrik Ervell, Tim Hamilton and Robert Geller. Now that's a decision that would surely prove heartbreaking to make. Stay tuned for a profile on each of these three in the run-up to the Awards themselves which are due to take place on June 15th.

Image from CFDA

Paddies and their Khakis.

Considering the day that was in it yesterday I thought I'd post this link to the most patriotic deed you'll ever see me do. Bluefly.com's Flypaper asked six bloggers from various locations around the globe to tell them how their respective countrymen wear khakis. Lest you (the few Irishmen that read this...) deem my contribution inaccurate I'll have you know teaming khakis with anything is not my forte. Personally, I'm loving Nigeria as interpreted by Terence Sambo.



Image from and with thanks to Bluefly

Creamy Lager...157.

Hoho! The degree of hilarity inherent to my post titles really knows no bounds! On first glance I thought the label (Lager 157) was some little-known, Karl Lagerfeld-related line. Alas, it certainly isn't, however this cardigan, which I happened upon mid-charity-shop-rummage is no less satisfactory for it. I've been looking for some off-white/cream hues as they're somewhat more flattering to my blatantly Irish complexion than stark white...

Turns out, Lager 157 (for those of you that aren't aware...) is a Swedish retail chain with several stores throughout the country which aim to sell top brands at half-price or less. This was good to know but it still didn't answer my question as to why "Lager 157" was actually printed on the label of the clotted cream (it is rather, don't you think) cardi. Some website poring-over has led me to believe they have their own range as well, offering monochrome basics (in the vein of bStore). Anyone in a position to provide more info?

Ontfront FW 09 Lookbook.

Remember that terrifically luxe collection, from Dutch Ontfront that sported all those nifty militaristic details and razor-sharp tailoring? Well, unfortunately, I don't reside in Paris and couldn't avail of the opportunity to attend the private viewing they offered a few weeks ago, but here are a few shots from the lookbook, which is I suppose the next best thing.

Images from Facebook

JPP Androgyny.

I don't think many can deny the distinct femininity hidden (and in some cases, overtly present) in many of the menswear collections for SS09. What with relaxed silhouettes, bright hues of yellow and playful prints like polka-dots, menswear is growing increasingly androgynous for a spate of designers. Leading this movement on the street, however, is the multi-talented, accomplished, and feroche-in-heels Jean Paul Paula.



Unlike a method of blatant cross-dressing JPP fuses the masculine and feminine by maybe pairing a structured blackest-of-black blazer and jeans with killer heels and a stunning waist-cincher. André J (keeping in mind the ridiculosity of goatee and poker-straight hair), this is not and I'm loving it all the more because of it. Is this nu-androgyny to be commended?

Images from Glamcanyon via Jeaniuss and Altamira

ShirtsMyWay.com: It's not always A or B, there's probably C[ustomization].

Pah! You really can tell I've had an alcoholic week with that title... Anywhat, shirts make up one of my favourite categories of clothing purely due to their versatility and often form-enhancing disposition. However, I find it increasingly difficult to locate shirts that fit all components of the upper body satisfactorily, too often forearm width will be too great, length will be entirely, and incurably out of whack with width and collars are either much too restrictive or lacking requisite structure etc. etc. You'd never think I bought several the other day (more on that in due course)...

But I digress. The point is-out of my perpetual frustration-I've been considering getting a few staple custom dress shirts and ShirtsMyWay.com could perhaps be of aid. The concept behind the site is to enable customers to design their ideal shirt, choosing from a vast array of details/colours/fabrics etc (I'm particularly fond of the french angle cuff and long-point collar).

It's all a little too exciting to convey really (not least because one can devise seven trillion different designs) since it doesn't end there, you can also choose from a sizeable offering of various buttons and collar stays, the real markers of individuality. And of course, you select measurements by either inserting your own particular specifications or choosing a standard size. Probably the closest thing to couture for shirts...

I'm not aware of the quality of service/product so if anyone has had any personal experience with the operation, do tell!

Matt & Nat = Feverish Covetousness.

If there is one detail about clothing/accessories that succeeds in distracting me from all else it is undoubtedly high-shine patent, esp. regarding shoes and accessories. So, as one might imagine, I was blissfully distracted from assignments by vegan innovators/patent-purveyors Matt & Nat and their recent POOL collection.

It's not only the appeal of the high-shine to my inner magpie but also the "molten textures" that render these so utterly covetable. Team with equally statement-making patent-shoes and an understated blazer and pants combo and one's good to go. That Warhol will be mine...

Image from Men's Rag

Fantastic Man No. 9

Enough of perfume collaborations (the fragrance was due to launch today, by the by) here's the true reason why Fantastic Man is to be revered as Bret Easton Ellis stars on the cover of issue 9. From the website one surmises it includes a feature on the pleasures of reading according to "five charming Parisians", an investigation of Antonio Bracciani and his supposedly "perfect" body, industrial designers, dermatologists and short shorts. The usual eclecticism then.

Image from Mimi Frou Frou

Contributing Editor: A Vehicle for the Next Generation.

Though it's only been in existence for the last six months, menswear-oriented online magazine Contributing Editor has made quite the impression on the blogosphere, presenting some of the most fresh and professional photo-stories and reports by some of the most commendable creatives at work in the industry. Without further ado (Editor-in-Chief Matthew Edelstein answers some burning questions)...

1. Contributing Editor is arguably the first menswear/style-dedicated destination in the online magazine form. What convinced you to seize the opportunity and launch the magazine?

There was no grand epiphany that led to Contributing Editor, it happened very organically. I left Details to go freelance in the summer of '08. This was the first time in my career that I'd been freelance and it took some getting used to. Instead of waiting for clients to approach me for jobs I decided to be proactive and do something myself. From there we started creating content and putting the site together. We launched on September 1st, 2008 with about 10 stories. On September 12th we had a "Two Week Anniversary" party. Early on we made the decision to start with mens because it's less competitive than womens. If you do something halfway decent in mens fashion, people in the industry are excited about it. In womens they're much less receptive. Now that Contributing Editor is established and people understand what it stands for we will slowly start to add womens. We always want to do things that feel natural and not forced so it has to be done in the right way.

2. What was your intention in launching Contributing Editor?

To give the next generation of creative people in fashion a vehicle for their work. I also wanted to work with less restrictions and editorial parameters imposed on me. The best printed fashion magazines are locked down with a handful of photographers, stylists, designers, etc. It can be hard to break into that world. I thought it would be cool to reject some of that and be less precious about creating fashion images. I'm not saying that what a great, established fashion magazine does isn't worthwhile. French Vogue, for instance, is consistently breathtaking and it moves fashion forward. I have incredible respect for these people but at this point in my career I want to work differently. Being a little online magazine allows us to be a bit more easygoing with the process and that makes me happy.

3. Who is Contributing Editor? Who forms the basis of the project?

I'm (Matthew Edelstein) the Editor-in-Chief and Ryan Schmidt is the Creative Director. Ryan and I met 10 years ago when we were both assistants at Harper's Bazaar. We were also roommates for a time in a giant loft where we lived with an endless succession of shady characters. There's been talk for a long time about working on a project together. The stars were aligned for us to do Contributing Editor.

4. Contributing Editor boasts a roster of some v. accomplished innovators, how did/do you garner such a group of talented contributors?

I only work with friends or with people I have personal relationships with. It's more fun that way. I'm happy to add new contributors to the mix but I always want to hang out with them first to make sure we're simpatico. When I work with friends there's a visual shorthand and similar reference points. I love the idea that we're developing a little community.

5. For the shoots, is the clothing/accessories featured sourced solely by the stylists or is Contributing Editor involved in this process?

We work exactly the same way as any fashion magazine does. All the clothes come from a designer's showroom or from press offices. I work closely with every contributor to make sure that what they're doing is compatible with the Contributing Editor point of view.

6. Do you feel your being an online magazine as opposed to a print one hinders or helps you? Or both?

I don't look at it that way. We do what we do to please ourselves and our friends. If other people like it too then that's cool. It's a very organic way to work; there's no creative or financial pressure. If we can make ourselves happy then it's already a win for me. Of course I want people to be excited by what we do but I don't worry too much about what the naysayers are thinking. Fashion people have their knives out for anything new and they're quick to judge. The mainstream fashion industry isn't quite ready to accept that an online publication could be a viable alternative to a printed magazine. I'm happy to change minds one person at a time.

7. And do you have plans to develop a print magazine? Or to monetize Contributing Editor?

Contributing Editor is always and forever an online publication. It seems to me that starting a new print magazine in the 21st century is not only old-fashioned but also a bit irresponsible. Of course we want to turn Contributing Editor into a viable business, otherwise it's just a hobby. But we want to do it in a smart way and not rush into anything.

8. Is there a particular menswear-oriented magazine you admire?

I don't really buy magazines anymore. I have a friend who is obsessed with magazines so I just go to his place and flip through the new ones. If I had to name one I'd say that Arena Homme Plus is the most interesting in menswear. They've really pushed mens' fashion in a new direction in the last 5 years. A great fashion magazine should move the needle of fashion and not just observe from the sidelines.

9. Just because I like to ask all interviewees, what's your favourite film?

I could never have just one favorite film. All of these are deeply meaningful to me in some way. They're constant reference points not only in my work but also in my personal life.

Breakfast At Tiffany's
Ferris Bueller's Day Off

Blade Runner
Qui Etes-Vous Polly Maggoo?
Dangerous Liaisons

Breathless
Goonies
Pride & Prejudice

Portfolio
Six Degrees of Separation
2001: A Space Odyssey

Bright Young Things
My Own Private Idaho
Less Than Zero

Much thanks to Matthew and co. Get over there now and check out reports from recent menswear weeks, delectable shoots and more.

Images from (and respective credits to be found at) Contributing Editor