Brunch Ahoy.

Last Saturday marked the day I was struck with this freakish bout of bloatedness, and at approx. 10am I was not feeling up for any manner of socializing, or for that matter, donning somewhat decent apparel. 

Alas, I'm an incurable foodie at heart and decided to head along to April's Dublin Fashion Bloggers' Brunch in Saba, a rather deliciously decorated Thai and Vietnamese restaurant on Dublin's Clarendon St. Rather stupidly, I went along in a new and verging-on-metal-sturdy pair of Oxfords sans socks, which was - in hindsight - one of the most foolish ideas I've ever had.

However, much delightful chat with the rest of the troupe, an amble through town with Cat & Lil afterward, and a thoroughly refreshing (odd adjective I know, but honestly, this stuff was better than Sprite for zing) beef salad, it was all worth it. Not to mention Yes to Carrots beauty goodness (from which the sister benefited greatly...) and April's The Gloss.

Now for another pack of plasters for my feet - shredded akin to said beef. Joy.

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Oh! Do check the below out @ Circus (6-8pm) if you're about town this evening - Aisling and Co. always do manage to pull off a top soirée.

Check out more Joseph Coveney here.

The Uplifting Halleck Effect.

A change in mood demands a change in sartorial cravings, quite naturally. With the passing - finally - of that bizarre bout of bloatedness I'm now up for the gradual reintroduction of colour into the daily-wear, the bringers of which would ideally be the newly unveiled garments of Brazilian designer Silvio Halleck.

 

A student of the Universidade Veiga del Almedia, Halleck was recently awarded the Rio Moda Hype for his debut collection at Rio Fashion Week Aw 09.  Featuring looks for both sexes, the collection is a veritable technical extravaganza with the juxtaposition of disparate fabrics (brash tartans with what look to be somewhat sporty jerseys and cottons) and often warped silhouettes. What's most appealing right now though is its colour - just the right tone of red for a recovering slug like myself trying to reemerge into the environment (I'm surely the only one who actually held intense detestation for the blinding sun today...).

 

Most impressive though is Halleck's fusion of a resolutely sportswear aesthetic - all things striped and streamlined - with couture-esque detailing - swathes of fabric gathered at the neck or draped over the shoulder. Oh, and failing my walking out again in technicolour the collection also features a rather handsome hoody-and-pant combo in a pleasingly industrial palette.

Er, do bear with me, I'm sure further gazing upon Halleck's creations will force the  undertone of pessimism to soon dissipate.

Suits on Sunday.

So I reckon an alteration is in order. Since I'm such a positive individual there'll no longer be any suits voted "Abominable", but rather I'll be featuring an "Applaudable" suit on Sundays...

I'm not entirely sure whether it's my current crappy mood due to scarred ankles from non-broken-in sturdy leather shoes, unexplained nausea and an absolute loss of appetite (can I just stress that this never occurs where I am concerned), but this abundance of grey for Fall 09 offered by Rozalb de Mura has never seemed so appealing.

That's not to say that the creation has negative connotations. Not at all, but my present state dictates that I'm more than impatient when it comes to combining colours. Thus, this ashen affair with its juxtaposition of feminine (the ruffled forearms and somewhat cinched waist of the jacket) with the masculine (minimalist, unembellished breast pockets, straight-leg pants and overall stiffness) is exactly what I'm requiring now. Check out an interview with Transylvanian designer Oláh Gyárfás on Dazed.

Image from The Fashionisto

Belstaff Rev-Up.

Belstaff is one those rather sizeable brands that I hear mention of so frequently and yet know very little about. With some alarmingly lush images from kidGQ I had no choice but to dash right to the source and peruse the extensive 'History' feature on their website. Invariably, these occurences always result in my being pleasantly surprised at how terribly interesting the heritage of these gargantuan brands actually is.

I won't attempt any kind of thorough chronicle here but suffice to say, Belstaff's background is (er...for the few that don't know) primarily in the purveying of motorcycle wear and it pioneered the use of "Wax Cotton", the waterproof but breathable fabric which rendered the house a legend. Anywhat, as I said before everything went tangentially awry, it was the above images of a seductively sleek moss-green bomber that had me researching. Being frank, at first it seems a little too overt in its slickness but put atop an entirely understated ensemble I'm thinking it could prove dashing indeed. Failing that, it is reversible, or there's the below 50s inspired aged-looking jacket. Equally chic.


Images from kidGQ and Belstaff

Bello Mag.

While Contributing Editor is still producing editorials of an incomparable quality other publications of the online magazine-platform are gradually emerging and making themselves known. Example: LA's BELLO Mag, the rather singular subtitle of which (the "Lifestyle Alphabet for Modern Man") I'm particularly enjoying.

To an extent it does what it says on the tin through the provision of news/reportage, designer profiles and some fetching photo editorials. The latest issue - inspired by the concept/process of evolution - features an almost kaleidoscopic shoot by Reno Ranger and a more than attractively slick story by Zach Burns. Do have a gander at the Tim Hamilton and Nom de Guerre profiles, too - monochrome basics have never looked so handsome.

Image from Bellomag

Won Hundred Ways of Dressing Chic.

When doling out €659 for this here laptop a year ago I hadn't expected it to be so dismally dissatisfactory compared to desktop I'd grown up with. Among a sizeable list of things it simply isn't built to do is load elaborate designer flash-sites at a fast enough speed for my perpetually impatient self. Alas, I'm thinking Won Hundred was worth the wait.



What with the sun finally making an appearance on this generally desultory weather-afflicted Isle, the footage of a pair strolling through green fields to be enjoyed on Won Hundred's homepage is more than heart-warming (note, too, their imagebooks have won awards for their art-direction - not surprising really). As for the clothes, well they're suitably laid-back and inarguably the most fitting things for embracing the lazy Summer haze.



In true Scandinavian sartorial-style it's the simplest colourway that's opted for here with shades of pale sandstone, whites and off-whites and a whole manner of blues regarding the denim. While the easy tailoring of the SS09 men's pieces is attractive it's some womenswear garments that I'm desiring the most, namely this slate-grey, oversized and draped, sleeveless blazer and the steely cowl-neck silk jacket.



Images from Won Hundred Shop

Maiden Campaigns.

Isn't it refreshing to see some of the most innovative designers currently working in menswear initiate their first foray into the realm of print advertising campaigns when the remainder of the industry is all about the cutbacks?



Two of NY's finest and my personal favourites: Patrik Ervell and Tim Hamilton will both publish their first ads in an upcoming issue of V. I abhor the use of phrases such as "the hottest designers right now" but when it comes to this pair I can't possibly think of anything more suitable. Ervell's minimalist affair with its profuse and potent striping was shot by KT Auleta, with set design by Matthew Mazzucca. Hamilton's slightly more detailed yet decidedly gray-scale image is equally striking, with the light/shadow contrast displaying the textured suit at its best. Not bad for first-timers, eh?

Images from Men's Style and Refinery 29

One for the Medicine Man.

You know those intense pangs of regret you get that have that acutely discomforting effect? Well I'm suffering right now, so to speak, chiefly due to my not placing medicine in first place on the CAO form last year. Perhaps then I could sport one of the wondrous things below and, when asked "Where did you get that briefcase?" I could convincingly reply "Oh that's just my medicine briefcase!", in which I'd store a whole manner of apothecarial items...

Hélas, it wasn't the career path I chose (or could even achieve considering the inordinately high points requirement...) but I'm still thinking these are too beautiful to be inappropriate in any context, anyhow. Fashioned from English bridle leather and lined in calf suede, these lightweight briefcases come in three sizes and the colours are certinaly something to write home about: a rich tan, classic black and a decpetively edible-looking chocolate browne. They come from Bill Amberg - a brand I'm entirely unfamiliar with, but unspeakably eager to know more about. Amberg comprises a group of companies, which are all focused on producing top-notch leather goods and it's apparently collaborated with brands such as Dunhill and Bulgari. More sacrificing of uni-research time for brand-research time is required, I reckon.

Images from Bill Amberg

Topman Sees White.

Above left to right: JW Anderson, Richard Chai, Henry Holland, Phillip Lim, Christopher Shannon and Topman Design.

This news has no doubt more than made the rounds online since its release but I'm a touch too excited to care. May 28th of this year will see the fourth installment of the unique Topman projects. This time 'round its the classic white tee. I will inevitably be enamoured of each and every offering considering this garment is a definite staple in my personal wardrobe.

The project features what could be deemed a cross-section of the cream of the menswear crop today: London-undergrounders Christopher Shannon and JW Anderson, inhouse Topman Design, other luminaries such as Richard Chai, Juun J and Henry Holland as well as - let's all be deliriously grateful together, shall we? - Phillip Lim!

I find myself adhereing to my current sartorial fetish - bib-detailing - more and more of late and it is as though Lim were strangely psychic considering what he's brought to the table...



Phillip Lim's contribution.

My inner nit-picking critic hates to admit it but I actually quite like all of them, particularly the simplicity of Chai's tee (though perhaps my judgement's clouded by its being paired with those so beautifully blue jeans?) and strangely enough, for me, Henry Holland's offering. Here's hoping texture lives up to the image.

Image from refinery29 and Ftape

Foulard-y.

I've been searching for what must now be months for a suitably dapper silk scarf in the vast majority of Dublin's charity shops. Alas, it's been to no avail. Well, that isn't quite true, there's rather an abundance of them but they're all of that decidedly geriatric (perhaps to be expected...?) and musty variety with their too-dated patterns and shades (often a touch too feminine for my liking).




Now I'm not in a position to speedily log onto Etsy and shop these beauties by the cartload but I'm sure they're bound to make more of a worthy purchase than those railed against above. Jason Kinney of Paupervoile is based in Portland, Oregon and manufactures what look to be exquisitely crafted squares of cloth to be worn as one wishes. While the price isn't the lowest by any means, an explanation of the process - one which involves laborious hand-printing and crafting - goes some way in offering a justification.

I quite fancy the idea of knotting the scarf below 'round the neck and pairing with that charcoal Junk de Luxe blazer I seem to be wearing incessantly these days. The Swiss red cross makes for a delicious juxtaposition with the white birds. Most impressive too, is that ornate, kind of ecclesiastical-interiors pattern which is threaded through much of the collection. Enough gushing, more saving...

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Suits on Sunday.

Given that I'm a student (I know, I state this fact irksomely frequently...) and the world's being in the throws of economic flaccidity, perhaps weekly posts on suits isn't the most welcome concept in terms of practicality. But - and beware the cliché here - surely this is a time to provide escapism and a touch of sartorial fantasy to repress any anxiety-inducing thoughts/feelings. Move over debts, and welcome the deets.

Abominable - Thom Browne FW 09

Speaking of escapism, who better to fashion fantasy from cloth than one Thom Browne. In this instance, however, his so-called "eye-rollers", the zany showpieces, were not so much freakish as just downright silly. This snowflake-and-bunny-patterned Fair Isle shorts suit is most likely not going to motivate you to do anything apart from, perhaps, regress to the emotional age of 5.

Applaudable - 3.1 Phillip Lim FW 09

Much more to be desired is this double-breasted confection (courtesy of Phillip Lim) with its jagged, deep black detailing in the lapels and buttons and that so saliva-inducing cocoa hue. If you do happen to have any spare change these days, you know where to put it.

More suits next week!

Images from Men's Style

Oogling at Osborne.

Let's be frank. The countless press releases we bloggers receive are usually a) in relation to a designer/brand whose work you find positively repulsive, and/or b) totally irrelevant to your blog and its inherent concept.

Not so concerning the most recent I received concerning Brooklyn-based milliner Victor Osborne. Hats form - for me - a territory not yet treaded, and at this stage the concept of actually placing one on my head seems entirely alien. That said, having seen Osborne's array of dark-hued fedoras, bowlers and peak caps I'm willing to relinquish the hat-virginity, so to speak (apologies for the sexual analogy - we're studying the cinema of Luis Buñuel so I reckon I have a valid enough excuse).

Osborne's hats are all produced in NYC, with his millinery standing in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. Also, another reason to perhaps make that brief excursion to NY I've so been craving: his atelier features an open workshop in the shop-window so customers can stroll past, halt suddenly and feast their eyes on the craft at work. I'm thinking the Elias or Pentagon from the collection featured on the site for my first foray into headwear, to be followed by AW09 pieces (top, and below). Oh, and do note he's done work for Tim Hamilton and also caters for les femmes, as well. Did I mention he's only 26?

On pompadours and the like.

The lady who inspired it all, Madame de Pompadour.

I know this matter is most likely to be deemed terribly passé by most of you but I just really would like a few additional opinions. And because I like to think you're an astoundingly fashion/style-literate bunch I thought I'd just go ahead and ask firstly...

What are we thinking of this quiff/pompadour business? I myself have tried the traditional method: dampening, applying wax and then combing through to give a stiff quiff but I've spotted an interesting look (not too suitable for myself...) on the streets of Dublin and in photos of London's clubs, which consists of oh, a blade two or three on the sides and back and then long and full-of-fringe on top.

Tim Hamilton FW 09

Secondly, since I inevitably ask myself this question at least once every few days: what do you reckon is the most becoming hairstyle for man? Crew cut? Long and floppy? Asymmetrical fringe? Or other?

Images from Wikipedia and Men's Style.

Top notch content, no kiDding.

I know we've had Men's Style to cite as an authority on all things men's lifestyle but don't you think a blog more frequently updated would be much more beneficial? I certainly do, and need not want any longer what with the launch Washington DC-based kiD GQ. A self-professed marriage of lifestyle and menswear it promises to offer all those desired lookbooks, runway reviews and streetstyle shots. It seems the big guns are finally catching on...

Rock-paper-scissors as you've not seen it before.

Following on with what seems to have become a series of exquisite lookbooks to appreciate for hours on end, comes this from Rochambeau featuring their equally commendable Fw09 collection. Egyptian for rock-paper-scissors (so perfectly referenced in their textured, Papyrus-esque lookbook images), Rochambeau originated when Michael Venker, Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler banded together following a chance meeting at the Parsons senior thesis show 2007.

What resulted was most fruitful indeed. For AW09 season they've fashioned many loose yet somewhat - and pleasingly so - fitted jersey separates in a soft black (if that makes any sense in the slightest...) and bright, bright white to lighten Wintry moods. What strikes me most is their v. wondrous draping - scarves that emerge from tshirt-necklines, soft cotton braces that stem from the sides etc. Kudos, too, for the abundance of impressive hoods and that deconstructed blazer (v. becoming from the back).

Find them at Oak, and Elsworth.

Burberry's Horseferry HQ.

Male Mode was never intended as an online platform for architectural feats but when I got wind of Burberry's new quintessentially British abode I could all but resist posting these terrifically sleek images. The move was intended to increase efficiency by uniting staff under the one, albeit extravagant, roof. That roof is, of course, that of Horseferry House, which has been dubbed the new global HQ of Burberry.





And it's all a tad grand, totalling 160,000 sq ft. over eight floors the gargantuan construction houses show rooms and office space and the features from the 1930s building are - thankfully - still apparent. Creative Director Christopher Bailey led the re-design - no surprises with the successful outcome, then. Am smitten with the bright white space accented with the rich chocolate brown fixtures. Note to self, in years to come Burberry is to receive the first CV...

Know Thyself.

It appears that the utterly lovely A & K of Bluebirds Are So Natural, are not only v. accomplished purveyors of blissful Friday-eve tunes to sip Black Russians to, but are also now proficient in the ways of tagging, ergo, this post!

What’s the last thing you read or are currently reading?

Front Row: Anna Wintour: What Lies Beneath the Chic Exterior of Vogue's Editor in Chief by Jerry Oppenheimer with a dash of From A to Biba: The Autobiography of Barbara Hulanicki for those dreary Luas journeys.

Do you nap a lot?

I didn't before college, but it's still a rare occurence.

Who was the last person you hugged?

The very beauteous Eimear, who not only partied hard with me but also cleaned the kitchen too. Er, no innuendo intended.

What’s your current obsession/addiction?

Butlers' Café cappuccinos. They're a good deal stronger than the pisswater many of the chains sell, and a complimentary praline can't hurt either.

What are you wearing right now?

Do bear in mind i'm in the throws of a more than mild hangover, am sporting a red, baseball tee from Topman, GAP grey straight jeans and River Island black faux-leather low-tops.

What was for dinner?

'Tis still to come. The Bruder is preparing spaghetti bolognese as I type, although what I'm really craving is a good cheddary risotto. Alas.

What have you been listening to lately?

Vivaldi's Four Seasons: Summer, La Roux and that Soulwax remix of Get Innocuous.

If you could have any super power, what would it be?

To eat everything in sight and not become either morbidly obese or a sufferer of heart illness.

What is your favorite weather, and why?

Varied, yet not shiver-inducingly cold or sweat-inducingly hot. Oh, and some rain and violent storms, please. Why? Because I like watching branches flail.

What was the last thing you bought?

A litre of Avonmore Supermilk, four Granny Smiths and phone credit.

Say something about the person who tagged you:

A veritable duo of blogging, djing dears.

If you could have a house- totally paid for, fully furnished- anywhere in the world, where would you want it to be?

Probably New York, though I've not travelled enough to be sure. Antwerp would be swell, too.

Favorite vacation spot?

Urban landscapes, generally.

Favorite pair of shoes you keep going back to over and over, even though your closet is overflowing with a zillion others?

The Galax Paris rich brown, patent-panelled heeless brogues (yes, I like adjectives - deal with it) which I - ironically - purchased in Arras, France, not Paris.

Name one thing you cannot live without.

Good company.

If you could wake up anywhere tomorrow, where would it be?

In a room of my own in sunny Brooklyn, anticipating ample volumes of coffee and thrift-store perusing.

I tag Steve of Style Salvage and The Portmanteau girls.

Loving What They Wore Last Night.

As I sit here nursing a rather irritating hangover and cringing at the thought of some of last night's antics, it's certainly pleasant to know some people can have immense fun while still managing to look flawless. To be perfectly frank I'm not a slavish follower of DirtyDirtyDancing-esque clubnight photography. I do enjoy an infrequent clicking through the looks (often commendably inventive) of London's hot-to-trottest scenesters but by and large the numerous albums compiled from various nights seem to meld into one well-dressed, but ultimately samey mess.

When WeKnowWhatYouDidLastNight got in touch with me about their March 09 lookbook featuring photocoverage of LFW just past I knew something new and a touch more innovative was on offer. Launched two years ago by photographer Christopher James and now producing coverage of the most stellar shows and parties from the season, WKWYDLN is establishing itself as the go-to online destination for reportage from London. What was particularly swell to find incorporated in the lookbook was a commentary from Laetitia Wajnapel, which is more than forthcoming with the details from pleated bowties to fishbone-shaped earrings.

Here are just some of London's most gregarious and dashing gentlemen...

Images from WKWYDLN

Sjaak and Sebastic: Arnhem's Sartorial Art.

Although Amsterdam is often considered the fashion capital of the Netherlands, the city of Arnhem has quietly been making a name for itself what with innovators such as Viktor & Rolf and mastermind of menswear Lucas Ossendrijver (who cut their teeth at the city's design academy) raising the profile on the international scene. Now, fashioning "lingerie for men" and menswear of an entirely luxe disposition, Arnheim Fashion (Sjaak Hullekes and Sebastic) is fast becoming the principal body creating the Netherlands' menswear of note.

1. Who and what is Arnheim Fashion?

Arnheim Fashion is the name of the company that was established by us (Sjaak Hullekes (1981) and Sebastiaan Kramer (1985)) in 2006. It is a cooperative company in which we both have our own menswear label, Sebastic and Sjaak Hullekes, as well as our freelance work.



Sjaak Hullekes

3. What are your respective design backgrounds?

We both graduated from the Academy of Arts and Design in Arnhem in 2005 (the

Academy where Viktor & Rolf, Lucas Ossendrijver and Alexander Van Slobbe also graduated), after which we started Arnheim Fashion. Besides designing our own collections we also work on a freelance basis, we have worked for Running Dogs, Tommy Hilfiger, Elle prèt-a-porter, State of Art, Puma Dassler, Arnhem Fashion Biennale, as teachers and so on...



Sebastic

2. How do you two differentiate between the aesthetics of the Sjaak line and Sebastic?

Also, do you both design both lines?

Because we both design for our own label having the different aesthetics is something that comes naturally. We of course share the same visions on menswear, which is one of the reasons we decided to start to work together, but in designing we both have our distinct style and are very different designers.

Sebastic

4. I read in a previous interview that the Sjaak and Sebastic lines possess inherently different characters e.g. Sjaak is more mature and understated whereas Sebastic is carefree and insouciant. Can this be applied to your own characters/working relationship also?

If those characteristics would be applicable to our own characters they would be large

exaggerations of the character traits we have! For example Sjaak is a bit more balanced and reserved whereas Sebastiaan can be a little more impulsive and headstrong, we

compliment each other in that way.

5. Can you tell us more about Sebastic Underwear? Is this a recent innovation or have you been doing it for a while? Do you have plans for a Sjaak underwear collection?

For two seasons Sebastic is focussed more on Underwear, body wear or even lingerie for men. We strongly believe in having a particular specialisation as a brand. For Sebastic that has been Underwear, already since the beginning. As the underwear part has been growing much faster in its idea and mentality, we want Sebastic to focus more on that part of fashion. The nice thing about underwear is that you can say a lot, and make a big fashion statement, without anyone seeing it, I just love the intimacy of it.

As mentioned above we believe in specializations; for Sjaak that will be more tailor made items, and a strong focus on personality. Sjaak is always looking for clothing that do not overshadow the personality of the wearer. So far we do not have any plans for a Sjaak underwear collection, although we had one brief in the spring/summer 09 Sjaak Hullekes collection.

Sjaak Hullekes

6. In one of Sebastiaan's blog posts he mentioned that he gets nostalgic for the classic masculine form which has largely been ignored as of late in preference for the skinny-indie aesthetic. Do you think menswear should return to favouring this more brawny form?

Well, to be honest we have grown a little tired of the whole indie movement as well as the neo Neon and it is something that totally doesn’t suit us. We have always favoured quality and nostalgia, which shows in our designs.

We think that after this economical recession thing if finished, the whole lifestyle of people will be more or less nostalgic again. For the future we will enjoy making pancakes, apple pies, and having more “tea time fun” together... A more ‘down to earth’ feeling, in which we will have more interest in tailor made, and hand made items. The feeling of fashion will be going to be inspired by the first part of the 20th century, and that might be the same for the male figure as well.

7. I loved the footwear you did in collaboration with Bretoniere, can you tell us a little more about this process of collaboration/how the footwear is produced?

We started this collaboration with Fred de la Bretonière for a shoe collection for Sjaak Hullekes to go with the S/S 09 collection. We wanted feature a complete wardrobe in the collection and feel that shoes are a very important asset to an outfit.

We are very lucky that Bretonière wanted to collaborate with us, since his label is so well known for it’s quality and knowledge of classical shoemaking and his style is a perfect match with Sjaak’s.

We got a lot of positive feedback and were very happy with the result of this

collaboration. And are even more happy that for the A/W 09/10 collection we will have a new shoe collection for Sjaak Hullekes as well as for Sebastic!

8. What’s your favourite film?

Sebastiaan: Pink Narcissus, I don’t think I need to say much more about that...

Sjaak: Mine is Spirited Away, Just love the whole fantasy part in combination with the kind of nostalgic feeling...

Much thanks to Sjaak and Sebastiaan.