Need a Hero?

In the days of yore (the formative stages of my fashion/style obsession), I remember trawling through countless threads on The Fashion Spot (as any wannabe fashion-aficionado does), the vast majority of which involved a helluva lot of model-appreciation even if the thread's sole purpose wasn't model-fanboy/girl-ing. And since I've never really been a model-obsessive it did at times prove irksome when members would gush "OmGzz Brad is sooo hot" in response to mere posting of runway collections. I knew the difference between my Irinas and had, at one point, a none-too-healthy interest in Sean O (eh...who didn't?) but I've never been a full-on, stalk-the-show-venues model-fanatic.

^ Cover feat. Robbie by Matthew Kristall.

Now, though, with the recent launch of fledgling London-based zine, Hero (founded by James West and Fabien Kruszelnicki), I find myself steadily developing a mild (but existent nonetheless) obsession. With photography by "Polaroid artist" Jeremy Kost and everybody's favourite cheeky it-boy Pelayo Diaz Zapico, and a wealth of the boys making up the cream of the male-modelling crop including Robbie Wadge and Ryan Koning, this really is set to be something big.

^ Ryan (Major, NYC) photographed by Matthew Kristall.

^ Robbie (VNY, NYC) photographed by Matthew Kristall.

^ Nicolas (Cento, Berlin) photographed by Stefan Heinrichs.

^ Luuc (Republic, Amsterdam) photographed by Massimo Pamparana.

No, it may not be the most inspiring publication regarding formulation of your daily outfit (unless you're perfectly happy to sit topless - possibly pantless, too - at your office-desk) but what it lacks in actual clothes it more than makes up for in artful photographs/layouts, insightful interviews (hopefully...only snippets as of yet) and breathtaking beauty.

Find stockists or buy online here.

EDIT: So, Blogger tells me this is the 250th post. I'd like to take this opportunity (avoiding as much cheddar as possible in the process) to thank each and every one of you for reading, ranting, loving, hating etc. In keeping with the truly celebratory theme this post is on topless boys, do enjoy yourselves.

Boots for few bills, please and thanks.

Perhaps the best feature of The Sunday Times Style magazine is "Skinted & Minted" (after Mrs. Mills, naturally). It's immeasurably reassuring to know that that designer bag or those designer shoes are (in a slightly watered-down quality, somewhat altered design-wise - for copyright reasons - version) available on the high street for a fraction of the hefty sum that Lanvin or Dior may be requesting.

I've been in search of big, thick, fuck-off black boots for a while now and the usual haunts (Zara, Office, Topman...) just aren't proffering the goods (well, they are, but all attempts have seemingly yielded naff results). So, if - by some v. odd twist of fate - you're reading this Gemma Soames (or Claudia Croft, whoever's now responsible), do please consider my problem for next week's issue (and yes, I'm aware it's generally an exclusively 'women's' feature but I'm sure you appreciate this is a crisis).

I'm so considerate I've already tended to half the workload - below, the unabashedly luxurious leather numbers worthy of the "Minted" title...

^ Ann Demeulemeester Black Leather Lace-up Boots - the mid-calf height and straps have me hooked.

^ LD Tuttle Leather Elephant Stamp Boots - probably my favourite shade of grey. Also, these thinner straps lend a more streamlined look.

^ Lanvin Leather Lace-ups (with wool detail) - masculine yet feminine, sturdy yet vulnerable.

^ H by Hudson Leather Lace-up Boots - i probably shouldn't be classifying these as designer/luxury considering the pricepoint is fairly affordable. Still, a good thing's even better when it's on the cheap.

Images from Oki-ni, Oak and Browns'

All DIY-traffic diverted to Augustine Wong.

There is an evident dearth of DIY projects on this blog. This is chiefly due to; a) my not possessing any noteworthy creative inclination/propensity to alter and/or embellish garments, and b) my being shite at all things crafty including (but not limited to...) cutting, sewing and pressing. It is something I want to introduce more of but, let's not lie, this isn't your first port of call for all things menswear make-and-do.

Such improvised artistry is better left to those like Hong Kong blogger Augustine Wong whose blog I've been eyeing up of late. From a metallic-silver mlutch (and my kind too, restrained yet statement-making) to a pair of Prada/Givenchy-inspired studded espadrilles, to flower-shaped leaflet cut-outs that could double up as floral, yet architectural/geometric brooches, this guy's got it down pat.

Recently, the DIY demigod tried his hand at a black bowtie stabbed fabulously, not fatally, with gold safety-pins. It's not often I'm inspired to make an endeavour of this kind but the success that is this punky, yet haute, bold, yet beautiful accessory has me plotting a pinned-tee of some sort. Eh, don't hold me to it, though...

Images from Augustine Wong

Looking Forward: LFW Menswear Day 09.

For those of you that don't yet know, the full schedule for London Fashion Week's Menswear Day (September 23rd) is now online and can be found here.

Carolyn Massey - MAN

Men's fashion-focused goings-on include a healthy dose of Fashion East Installations featuring immensely talented father-and-son team Casely-Hayford and eclectic duo Jaiden rVa James (amongst a host of others), NEWGEN MEN shows from Carolyn Massey and James Long as well as MAN, Savile Row in-store presentations at E. Tautz and Richard James and a veritable wave of other eagerly anticipated shows from London's finest.

Cheap (and not so cheerful...it is Ryanair...) flights booked. Couch at the sista's gaff reserved. The excitement begins its ascent.

Image from LFW

World AW09: Would You?

True, my derisive damning of garish shades was a little hasty. It's not that I'd actually vomit if faced with a gleaming, 'citric-acidic' shade of yellow, rather, I'd just not be hot for wearing great big bolts-of-cloth of it. Anyway, since happening upon this AW09 lookbook (below) on Men's Rag, I've been trying to convince myself I'd wear certain elements of this colour-fest. I'm contemplating saying that I would, based purely on this design-duo's credentials, which is a touch shallow surely...

World, a New Zealand-based brand, comprises the talent of Denise L'Estrange-Corbet (LCF-grad, and she has an MNZM to boot) and Dennis Hooper (ex-employee of Galliano, Kawakubo, Michiko Koshino and Kansai Yamamoto). Founded in 1989, the brand is, as you might have noticed, at home with all things clash-tastic and seemingly preoccupied with fashioning looks that should provoke a response like..."Gah!/Eurgh!/" but instead receive a less exclamatory "I'd actually wear this and not feel like a walking, talking tackiness-advocate".

I'm thinking the piping-garments would be the most work-able. Possibly some of the "I'M GAUDY SATIN!"-screaming accessories, too? Or (and this is quite plausible) am I losing all sartorial sense...?

PS. No need to advise re: the dainty miniature murses, I'll not be treading into tranny-territory just yet...

Screen caps from World

Satyenkumar AW09: Tweaked Classic Tailoring

The few times I've been asked to describe my personal style in the past I've responded by, firstly, sighing profusely as if formulating an answer were the most irksome task imaginable, then by making an attempt to string together a few influences that could somehow justify the haphazard car-crash I've donned for the day, and finally by spluttering a few incoherent bs sentences that leave the enquirer even more perplexed than they were to begin with.

Swell, then, that I've discovered a designer whose aesthetic perfectly encapsulates what I'm all about, sartorially. Satyenkumar Patel graduated from the world-renowned CSM MA course in 2001 before heading Milan-wards to work on Versace's mainline collection. I first came across Satyenkumar in London-based design collective Underlining Colours' 8th project entitled 'Brothers'. A menswear-oriented affair, this 'issue' saw Satyenkumar's scarves and outerwear rule the roost in a shoot which also featured menswear-innovators Deryck Walker and Siv Stoldal.

Satyenkumar (jacket on left, scarf on right) in Underlining Colours' 'Brothers'

What's so attractive about this label is its similarity to my own personal style (or rather...what my style - ideally - would be): candy-pinstripe trousers, wide-shorts short-suits (oh, and make like Miuccia says...every day is casual Friday, replace your suit-shirts with polos/tees), bib-fronts and shirt-panels and distintly 'masculine' florals i.e. understated, no garish pink, vomit-inducing yellow or green. And that's just SS09.

Satyenkumar AW09

What with retail interest from Daniel Jenkins and Oki-ni (Satyenkumar's been stocked there for some time but will have renewed presence as part of the 'New Faces of Menswear' initiative) the line's set to hit hard for AW09. But in a v. genteel fashion, of course. It's typical AW with dark suiting and outerwear but tastefully flamboyant embellishments flourish, think rose-pink shirts, a satiny-looking overcoat and pyjamas (the Versace influence, perchance?), and royal-blue gauzy gloves/tights-for-hands(?). And yet more panelling, for which I could be only described as gagging...

Satyenkumar (trousers) in Fashion156's 'The Country Issue'

Find John Skelton/Oki-ni's interview with the designer here.

Images from Underlining Colours, Fashion156, and The Fashionisto

Male Muse: Charles Guislain.

Up at a godawful hour to shave, slick, dress etc. before heading to a cousin's signing-herself-away (read: wedding) which is to be held in a castle of some sort so the extra time is required to make some kind of coherent decision on appropriate attire.

Just briefly before I go to battle I thought I'd enquire as to whether anyone's any more the wiser regarding the below-pictured fellow? From the little I've extracted from the modest features scattered across teh interweb, Charles Guislain is a 16(?) year old French garcon with a passion for Romain Kremer and a fondness for Hedi-era Dior Homme/Margiela androgyny. Diane of ASVOF has taken quite the shine to this fresh-faced show-goer who has set his sights on no less than elite academy CSM for training in the art once he's done with school. Despite not finding his style that groundbreaking/impressive, it's undoubtedly very much his own.

^ A somewhat edgier gender-bending chic. Love the dramatic lapel that looks as though it could perhaps double-up as a murder weapon.

^ The Jeanne d'Arc haircut is both French-inspired and fashion-forward. Not entirely in love with the polka-dot cape (CdG? anyone know...?) but asymmetry never fails.

^ Divulging thoughts on Paris menswear to Diane of ASVOF.

^ With the 'Dam/Mykro Mag troupe and working booties better than Jean-Paul Paula.

^ Deconstructed and kimono-inspired. 'Nuff said.

^ Am admiring the black-on-black while overlooking the too-tired second-skin jeans.

Still, though, do you recall having the cash to burn on Rick Owens, Margiela and YSL when you were in your mid-teens?

Images (from top) from The Malcolm, Jak & Jil, ASVOF, butch & reggie

Birthday Brunching @ Harvey Nichols.

I love brunches. I love birthdays. Fashion's not bad, either. Combine all three and you get the 1st Anniversary Fashion Bloggers' Brunch, held last Sunday by the ever-gracious - and on this occasion, gold-lamé-clad - maven, Annmarie O' Connor, at Dublin's Harvey Nichols. Over my first ever Bloody Mary (and last, I reckon...appears i'm not a devotee of tabasco and tomato juice, though it's nowt to do with the barmen of the establishment. I was assured by Garrett of Indigo & Cloth that it was rather the consummate cocktail), mixed berries, an assiette of Harvey Nicks amouse bouches and more bringers of foody heaven. Needless to say, the shirt below was nigh on bursting post-decadence.

The above-pictured was my attire for the day, plus a much too thick, slightly dissheveled, slicked-back barnet (which has since been shown the door...or rather the barber's floor). Apologies for photo-quality...in dire need of a decent camera. Oh, and I suppose for the sink, too. I was thinking I could maybe pass it off as a chic incidental prop but eh, not so sure...

Purple-dot suit jacket from Topman, pinstripe shirt from Ted Baker, brown leather belt from River Island, white trousers from H&M, faded derby shoes from Ask the Missus via Office.

Much thanks to Annmarie, Michael and Dee @ Harvey Nichols and everyone else who made swell Sunday company including the impossibly elegant Blanaid of Blanaid.com, who so reminded me of Daphne Guinness, who I'd seen in the exact same Harvey N restaurant giving a lecture almost a year ago... strange that.

Weighing-up Weather-wear Options.

Much to my chagrin, much of the population of Ireland don't seem to have quite grasped the depressing, but nonetheless valid, fact that they will never ever have a Summer (or at least experience that which a proper Summer should be...day-long sunshine sans a single breeze or the faintest drop of rain). In fact, contrary to many's a member of my parents' generation who regularly erupt into nostalgiac almost-elegies for the long-lost Irish Summer, I am myself highly suspicious of any claim that this country has felt uninterrupted sun for longer than a matter of seconds. A depressing thought for many, perhaps, but I've always liked the rain and judging by the frequency of my encounters with it, I reckon it might have a thing for me too.

So, not one to spoil budding relationships (however sodden...), I seem to have embraced the Irish elements and adjust my wardrobe accordingly. Below, some inspiration for staying on the good side of rain...

Henrik Vibskov Croc Jacket - You know when you try to visualise a particular colour combination and it has the potential to make you feel physically ill in your mind's eye, but when actually rendered proves to be a colourway you'd fall deeply in love with. Yeah? This is it. See Circus Store.

Opening Ceremony Nylon Parka - I vowed to myself I'd buy something blue and nylon last AW. Turned out to be yet another epic fail. This season, with models like the above on offer, will, I predict, be a different story. See Oak NYC.

Mackintosh Navy Hunter Riding Coat - Being the glorious ignoramus that I am, I only discovered last year that the term "mac" originates from this 200 year old British rainwear brand that - considering its marketing - could be deemed the English answer to Jil Sander. See Mackintosh and my-wardrobe.com.

Carolyn Massey AW09 Cape - If this were a fashematic it would be something like "Large bat" + "Footsoldier/Policeman". I ask you: what's not to love?

But, not to come across all at-one-with-the-rain-god, I must say I do have that unyielding desire to return to bed prompted by a rapid glance through the water-splattered window to find a torrent of pissy weather. These are the days I wish for sun that would justify wearing the below-pictured. Here's hoping for at least a few days of weather more Med than wet in SS10.

Romain Kremer for Mykita - With stainless-steel frame and metal shutters, these Inuit-inspired shades could be the less-gansta, more minimalist-chic, eyewear-grillz. See Mykita.

Images from Selectism, my-wardrobe, Carolyn Massey, Oak and Circus Store

Harvard Yard & Caulfield Prepatory: Scholarly staples.

Being a college student with somewhat of an interest in things sartorial, I was stoked (and rather surprised at the extent of this excitement, too, never knew things so aesthetically conservative could prove so covetable...) to see what the Cambridge MA school Harvard's new line, The Harvard Yard, would offer. Unsurprisinlgy, the collaboration between the University itself and manufacturer Wearwolf Group looks to be the epitome of Ivy League elegance what with tailored shorts, roll-up-cuffed chinos and a healthy dose of dandy provided by pinstripe blazers.

Still, it's not worth a first. Such an accolade could only be awarded to Vincent Flumiani whose slightly-rough-around-the-edges-academic-esque line, Caulfield Prepatory, has me eager to get back to the books like never before, if only to have an excuse to don those slim-fitting shirts and wool blazers.

Inspired by J.D. Salinger's classic beloved of adolescent misanthropes the world over, Catcher in the Rye, the line pays homage to rebelliousness. This AW09 collection is based on a story penned by Flumiani himself which concerns a youth who embarks on a pretty epic road trip, Kerouac-style. Literary-references aside, the pieces comprising the collection itself are impressive, irrespective of concept. Elegant staples of Uni-uniform (slim blazers, shirts, thin polos and poker-straight ties) are combined with workwear-inspired components (brown cordurouy, rustic boots, thick knits and fingerless gloves).

For what must be the first time, however, I'm jonesing after SS more than AW. Culprits responsible (from Caulfield Prep's SS10 nautical collection) to be found here.

PS. All Americana road-trips and boating invitations v. welcome.

Images from Selectism, Refinery29 and Hypebeast

Q+A: Jarah Stoop.

While Omar Kashoura's AW09 collection was astounding in its own right, the addition of accessories designer Jarah Stoop's range of buttery bags in lavender and custard transformed something top-notch into a phenomenon truly stellar. I had a brief e-natter with the woman herself...

1. Of all the schools of design what drew you to accessories and more
specifically, bags for men?

During my study of Product Design at the Academy of Art and Design in
Arnhem, The Netherlands, I designed everything from furniture to
ceramics to lighting. I was always drawn to designing products made
from fabric and leather. I discovered that when I start to visualize
my designs I think in pattern pieces rather than solid shapes. I love
the fact that bags are worn close to the body, but the shape is not
necessarily determined by the body or comfort, accessories can be more
autonomous in a way. During my studies I developed a bold style of
design, making use of high quality materials in combination with lots
of detailing. At first I designed for women, it never even crossed my
mind to design for men. After some time I realized my style was more
masculine. Therefore, I wanted to explore this more during my MA study
at the Royal College of Art where I specialized in Fashion Menswear
Accessories. When I started to design for men I felt more free to
design, I love exploring the boundaries of menswear.

^ For Omar Kashoura AW09

2. What inspired your SS09 collection "City Excitement", and how was
the experience of producing a full collection?

I am in love with London and with travelling. My City Excitement
Collection, was a range of luxurious travel goods for men, inspired by
urban life, it celebrated the commotion and excitement people
experience in a cosmopolitan city. Producing a full collection was
very exciting. In this collection I made use of several different
materials such as wood, metal, plastic and the usual leather and
fabric. At times it was very nerve-wracking to get everything
together, especially when you are relying on other people to produce
components. When it finally comes together you forget all the stress
and just enjoy it, thankfully! (This collection can be seen at the
Future Fashion Now exhibition at the V&A in
London.)

3. Your collaborative work with menswear designer Omar Kashoura has
received great praise from the industry (and a legion of bloggers!).
Can you tell us more about this collaboration process?

Omar Kashoura contacted me last year, he had seen my work at the
exhibition where he was collecting an award from the Deutsche Bank
earlier that year. His use of colours, strong shapes and silhouettes
were really inspiring, so I knew I wanted to collaborate with Omar.
When we have our design meetings we jump from one idea to the other,
it’s an energetic and inspiring process. With Omar I have been to
Paris twice, presented at the Arabic Fashion World and there are more
exciting events to come. We have worked on two seasons and already I
am looking forward to the next.

^ City Excitement SS09

4. Do you have a particular muse/source of inspiration that feeds your
creativity?

I am inspired by numerous things, I love watching people on public
transport for instance. They way they behave, and the way they use and
sometimes flaunt their accessories, it intrigues me. I am obsessed by
detailing. The past three years I have been researching traditional
leather techniques, I am fascinated by what you can do with leather,
moulding/polishing, it keeps surprising me. To be more specific about
my inspiration; at the moment frames and grids are floating through my
head, bold graphic shapes with a hint of humor.

^ Bower Roebuc Project

5. What are your views on men's attitude towards accessories today? Do
you feel they wear them well? What do you think of the "murse/mlutch" trend?

I feel (straight) men have realized they need bags and accessories
too. Every man has a laptop bag and once things are functional men are
not afraid to use it, so why not have a nice one?
The shape of a bag is determined by what we carry in it, therefore the
sleek aesthetic of laptops dominate men's bags. It is a small step from
laptop case to mlutch to murse…I quite like this trend, but not all
men can pull it off.

6. What are your plans for the future?

I am currently in the process of moving my studio from a town in The
Netherlands to a small shop the centre of Amsterdam. I am sharing the
space with an artists initatief, whom will be making installations and
exhibitions, which promises to be good fun. Also my friend Juultje
Meerdink who just graduated from the Royal College of Art in London as
a footwear designer is moving to Amsterdam. Once we are settled we
will be doing a project together. I am really enjoying the
collaborations… and I also have my own collection that I am working on
at the moment, for me this is ideal.

-

Where can we buy your designs?

I am working on finding venues to sell my bags, for now they are
available through my website soon from my new studio/shop at Czaar
Peterstraat 132 huis, Amsterdam and the collaboration pieces are also
available through Omar Kashoura. At the moment I have a small window
display in Canary Wharf's exhibition space, where you can check out my
newest ‘Strapping’ bag in real life.

Much thanks to Jarah.

Simon-Pierre Toussaint: Star-lined Scout-chic.

Since this week's posting seems to be structured around some kind of lengthy confession I suppose I better divulge another tidbit. I never was a boy-scout. And, frankly, I never regretted the decision to steer clear of rope-knots and campfire-lighting until I saw Hogeschool Antwerpen-grad Simon-Pierre Toussaint's award-winning (the Crystallized at Hyeres award, for his use of Swarovski in the footwear) collection - "The Trees Can Hear You If You Talk To Them". Had I known all that roughing-it and do-gooding could inspire such aesthetic ingenuity, I might have reconsidered.

^ Note the evocative starry-sky-lining.

No matter, as Toussaint's v. personal salute to the institution documents all the deets of any scout's daily life (tent-print all-in-one, sleeping-bag overcoat and is imbued with such an intense nostalgia that one almost feels as if they themselves once strived for the Order of the Arrow.

^ I know this is all beautifully boyhood-innocence-themed but is anyone else seeing the phallus above? No? Just me? Too much Freud...

^ Yes, before you ask, it's actually wood. Reminds me of this year's grad Julia Kim. Time for a forestry-themed ModeMuseum exhibition...?

^ Having a natter with Diane of ASVOF.

Images by Christopher Moore from Catwalking