Rodarte for Men's Knitwear Revolution.

2009's AW season was to be the one to remember. The one which would mark my prising myself away from my countless slimline v-necks and basic slouchy cardis to embrace the knit of the more unusual kind, chunkier or bulkier, mohair instead of merino. Countless receipts detailing purchases of the former go some way in telling me this didn't quite happen.

Nevertheless, as we move ever closer to SS10 a second chance is proffered. Yes, you heard right, it appears designers are now acknowledging the fact that the Irish population no longer experience the elusive "Summer" and are forever more in desperate, year-round need of wool to warm them. The thoughtful designers in question are, of course, the ever-aware Rodarte sisters.



Granted these are still slimline but I'm fairly sure they tick the 'unusual' box what with all that brightly coloured distressing.



Ignoring the fact that these are to be sold at the thoroughly disgusting price of $2,760 (and as the observant Adrien Field has observed, are only half-way there jumpers), they're the perfect opportunity for knitwear experimentation - draped over a fitted white vest, or au naturel under a skinny black blazer.

FYI, friends, family and wildly generous fans-of-the-blog, Christmas 2010 is only 360 days away....

Available exclusively at Opening Ceremony.

Images from The Field Notes

Stylish Not Sodden: A Short Guide to Men's Umbrellas.

Rain. It's the bane of the Irish population and, perhaps, the reason we're not exactly the most world-renowned fashion savvy race. Here, it's the brave man who tackles the downpours in his new suede boots or double-breasted cable knit. It's as though the accursed climate of this country doesn't want us donning anything other than a Nike mac and a pair of wellies.

Of course, if you were at all intelligent (which, I'm assuming you've gathered by now, I'm not really) you'd consider purchasing an umbrella before stepping outside (I've not...yet) and submitting yourself to sheet after sheet. You'd not only make your way from A to B unscathed by the incessant waterfall but also find yourself equipped with an additional statement-making accessory. Umbrellas aren't merely for inducing envy in the sodden, they're also an aid in communicating your style.

I refer you to Men's Flair's brief but undeniably informative discussion of the umbrella, and also to the below which I've rounded up from various online retailers. Save your hair and your sanity.

^ Fulton Huntsman

^Fulton Knightsbridge Pinstripe

Fulton Umbrellas - Best for those of you after a tried-and-true black or grey. Fulton also collaborate with designers but it's moreso been of benefit for women. As per.

^ Schirm Oertel Fox Stripes

^ Schirm Oertel sterling silver handle

Schirm Oertel - Somewhat more ornate and ostentatious, this German brand offer more in the way of patterns for the nylon covering and multiple choices regarding the handle. Sterling silver, anyone?

^ James Smith & Sons

James Smith & Sons - Manufacturing with great care since 1830, this company seems equally concerned with quality and style. FYI, they've made a stick in every English wood available, which totals over 70.

Note: Oh, and don't go psycholanalysing either. Phallic empowerment, I assure you, this is not.

Images from Regenschirme, James Smith and Fulton

Fashion Photography FauxReal.

Bloggers often deem their respective blogs as online scrapbooks, HTML-encoded shrines to the haute. I suppose I see this blog isn't entirely dissimilar but my wordiness doesn't exactly make for the epitome of conciseness. No matter. So-FauxReal has, in the most aesthetically-pleasing manner possible, made all my wrongs right. It's not often other blogs are featured here but this is of a different vein. Mixing editorial, campaign and catwalk photography, So-FauxReal is the blog-equivalent of a menswear-mecca. Oh, and you can even submit your own post. Did someone just say Fashion Blogging 2.0?



Vincent Azzopardi by Andy Houghton


Check it, and be inspired.

A Very Merry Christmas to All Those in Mode.

Thought it best to remove myself from all the mulled wine and mince pies merriment (post-Xmas sale purchases aren't of much use unless they actually fit...) to wish one and all a very merry Christmas. Should you find yourself growing weary of rich-food-induced family debate, I recommend logging on and perusing the sales; when that last roast potato's ingested and the conversation turns to Sarkozy, I know it's time for oki-ni. And Topman. And Reiss. And River Island. And bespoke. You get the idea.

Jakob Hybolt by Björn Terring for Kings Magazine

Image from the Fashionisto

Male Muse: Patrick Grant.

Although I seem to make it my life's mission to rail against it during the year, it's at Christmas that tradition seems bearable, if not entirely embraceable. Patrick Grant, he who's credited with the revival of the once great, then stagnant, now great again London tailors, Norton & Sons, is not only a learned and suave man but also consistently turns himself out impeccably.

With an EMBA, and a thesis on luxury British heritage brands therein, Grant knows a thing or two of the outfitting of the modern gentleman. His passion for the sustenance of the art of tailoring and his preoccupation with the provenance of both his clothing for E. Tautz and Norton & Sons (cloths derive mainly from the British Isles) marks him apart from contemporaries.

His style is both preened and subtly playful so as to not appear austere in its sophistication. It's quintessentially British, it's conservative and it's out-of-my-cash-league but its old-world allure is undeniable. This is not a manner of dressing I'd ever attempt to emulate but this time of year, I believe, demands such a harking back.

Read more on and from Mr. Grant here, here and here.

Images from Wayne Tippetts, The Sartorialist and Swipelife

Were They Rich Christmas Wishlist No. 3.

It's not often I get exclusive personal tip-offs from a national newspaper's fashion editor so when Deirdre McQuillan (of The Irish Times) let me in on a sartorial secret, I was, naturally, all ears. Established in 1934 by the pioneering Eugène Heschung, shoemakers Heschung is one of those brands that purveys timeless, well-crafted footwear with a website that underlines its colourful past to boot (don't you just love those scrolling timelines that condense a near century's worth of history into a webpage? School textbook-authors take note...).

When I proclaimed my love for boots, Ms. McQuillan recommended this artisanal Alsatian brand. But it's not just the heavy-hitters that makes these artists famous - they proffer a range of dress and casual shoes too. You may recall the collab. with Comme Des Garcons a while back, a marriage of aesthetics which almost had me salivating at the mouth only for the too-thick sole. Yes, Rei, thick soles may scream alternative but, attractive? Oh no...

Anyway, it's their boots I'm after. For reasons better articulated by the below pictures...

^ Jasione Rouge - €320

^ Hakea Noir - €360

^ Gingko Expresso - €350

^ Douglas Plomb - €350

Find them at La Botte.

Images from La Botte

Were They Rich Christmas Wishlist No. 2.

You know (and this is not intended in a SATC-fashionista way) you can never really have too many bags. There's a good reason the majority of luxury companies make their bucks on accessories and fragrances/cosmetics. They're practical, wear-with-whatever (provided you make a sensible choice i.e. no bedecked-in-multi-coloured-jewels mlutches) and not quite as expensive as that suit you've been perving on for that past while.

Thus, it's bags again for wishlist post the second. But these are bags I'd actually sacrifice a sister for. Ally Capellino is a brand that prides itself on its pragmatic, but nevertheless aesthetically-pleasing, approach to accessories. Founded by Alison Loyd (she spent some of her formative years in this here city of Dublin) and her then partner Jono Platt in 1980, the brand has dipped its finger in everything from womenswear to design consultancy, but it's its bags that have come up trumps and have seen them enrapture the Japanese market to boot.

But enough of the background and onto the bags...

'Richard' polished leather satchel - £392 (personal fave right here, it comes in navy, i mean, 'nuff said)

'Blackfriars' leather travel bag - £336

'Wayne' high glossy leather weekender - £336

'Timothy' waxed cotton rucksack - £196

She's also collaborated with Apple to fashion a range of v. covetable casings for your MacBook. Sleek, no-fuss fashion just doesn't come any chic-er than this.

Note: If you're reading this, Ursula, I'll refrain from sacrificial activities provided I find one of the above underneath that tree next week...

Images from Ally Capellino

Were They Rich Christmas Wishlist No. 1.

I'm not hot on regular features for the blog since I either, a) am much too busy (lazy) to maintain such a thing, or b) another much more blog-worthy topic comes along when I should be doing such-and-such a feature. Nevertheless, I reckon that consumerist wet-dream that is Christmas demands something of a mention. Thus, I give you (this could be a one-off thing...or not...) the "Were They Rich Christmas Wishlist" i.e. the stellar things I'd request were my loved ones that bit more affluent. Alas.

Along with Jaiden rVa James' fetishistic get-ups and Jordan Askill's awe-inducing creations, I also came across H by Harris during LFW's menswear installations. I recall stumbling into the cell-like space (the installations were held in the Somerset House vaults) and stumbling a bit more when I saw the below bounty of quilted goodness...









H by Harris quilted nappa (read my further raving regarding nappa, here) leather laptop skins (in 13" and 15" sizes). Because my tattered provided-by-Tesco Technika bag hasn't much longer left to live...

Images via Oki-ni

Q+A: Georgy Baratashvili.

There are pros and cons to having a sista in London. Pros: 1. You get to be escorted around the city during Fashion Week (with aid from a v. generous flatmate/LDN-orientation-expert). 2. You don't spend inordinate amounts of time trying to decipher which eateries are worth it and those that aren't. Cons: 1. You're kipping on their couch so staying longer than two days could mean permanent spine damage. Ergo, 2. You miss the On/Off showcase to see menswear later during the week.

The one designer whose name I'd noted numerous times was Georgy Baratashvili. With a knack for fusing feminine draping with masculine tailoring and consolidating the effect with a quiet palette that's also got this subtle vibrance, Baratashvili is surely one of London's finest fashion-makers to watch.

What motivated you to choose menswear design?

Designing for men challenges you to be more creative in a smaller space.

Women would buy everything because they like the design, but men would think twice. They like clothes to be practical and comfortable as well as look great. Also, men don’t buy outrageous fashion so there are some borders to your creativity. I like a good challenge and love pushing the limits, so designing menswear seemed a perfect thing to do. Although my clothes are getting a lot of attention from women too, so I planning to start a womenswear line too.

Georgy Baratashvili SS10

Being of Georgian origin, and having been raised in Moscow, do you feel your Russian heritage informs your design? Are there aspects of your native culture which inspire you?

Russian heritage doesn’t inspire me so much at the moment, probably because I grew up in it and got used to it, but Russian culture is inside of me, so I believe it shows in my work one way or the other. As a natural explorer, I’m more fascinated by my Georgian culture and history because I am less familiar with it.

Georgy Baratashvili Aw09

Also, you danced professionally for 15 years, something which I feel is v. evident from your fluid construction and draping. Would you agree that your dancing past has inspired this?

I wouldn’t say my dancing past inspired draping in my design, but it is most certainly affecting my work. I don’t like clothes that restricts your movement. I like to move free even if I wear layers of clothes and this is a quality I apply to my personal wardrobe and my designs.

You've worked for Preen, having designed one-of pieces for their shop. Can you tell us a little about this collaboration?

I was an intern at Preen when I first met Justin and Thea, the design duo behind Preen. Designing one-of pieces was one of the projects they gave me. They trusted me and liked the quality of my work. When I finished my internship, they called me back to help with the new season. They are the nicest people, and I really enjoyed working with them.

You've also collaborated with Puma. Can you tell us about this process?

It happened when I was MA student at St. Martins in my 1st year. I won the Bursary award sponsored my Puma, and they produced the shoes I designed. They went on sale in all Puma concept stores around the world and were totally sold out with in few weeks. The year after I won it again, this time with a design of a luxury bag. It was great experience, and a good test to me as a designer to see if people around the world would like my work enough to buy it.

When designing, do you have a particular muse/source of inspiration in mind?

Yes, but I changes from collection to collection. I never know what will inspire me next time. It could be something that I love or am very interested in at the moment, or a collection of random things that caught my attention.

Your menswear seems entirely modern in its incorporation of some traditionally 'womenswear' features like sheer garments and elaborate draping. Do you feel the lines between menswear and womenswear are being blurred in the contemporary context?

Yes, absolutely. Women took over the man’s role in the society. They do the same jobs, often earning more money. They don’t need a strong shoulder to rely on anymore, and in reaction to that men became more liberated in their choices. Fashion is like a big mirror that reflects everything in the world. Wars, politics, social changes its all has massive impact on contemporary fashion.

That’s why we see pretty teenage boys wrapped in silk on the catwalks today, compared the to macho man of the 80’s.

What's next for Georgy Baratashvili? Any interesting projects in the pipeline?

I don’t like talking about my future plans, you will wait to wait and see...

Snatch Smudge the Bear at River Island.

Bit of déjà vu here. Pretty sure I've started at least one previous post defending the honour of River Island. As a store it's garnered a little bit of a reputation as a tacky/gaudy get-up purveyor but each time I pay a visit I always leave with a gem that's both affordable and decent enough quality. Oh, and I got the boots 09 there, too. 'Nuff said.

But, while they've always provided me with a basic (if a little bland) wardrobe item or two, they've not been known for innovation, at least not on the scale of Arcadia. However, with news that beloved t-shirt brand, Smudge the Bear, are now aboard, the tide may be changing.

Established this year by London duo Samuel Stephenson and Lucas Mathizig-Lee (nerd in me is loving the alliteration), Smudge the Bear has been making a name for itself at Brick Lane's 'Sunday Up Market'. Tees, for me, are generally just another layer of warmth and are invariably found in more neutral tones in my wardrobe. Arbitrary numbers, lewd exclamations, and only barely witty puns do not my tee-designs of choice make. That's why the below trio is more than welcome. There's a kind of lyrical beauty to them but nothing overly saccharine.

Find them at River Island stores in Manchester, Oxford St., Liverpool, Leeds, Dudly, White City and on the interweb.

Thom Browne x Samsonite Black Label: Donations will now be accepted.

It's probably a year since I first pledged I'd do it and it's still not done. Source an elegant but appropriate briefcase/bag for college, that is. I've tried over-the-shoulder and weekender and everything else on the market but nothing's proved ache-free and space-a-plenty just yet.

However, if anyone's got a spare, oh you know, €970 lying around, I might be able to put it to use. Thom Browne's collaboration with Samsonite Black Label was announced quite a while ago but this attache didn't come sleekly, and in Mad-Men-fashion, into our lives until just recently when it was launched on Colette.

Streamlined, sexy, work-with-anything black with a dash of humour to show you're not all work and no play.

Note: Eh, scrap that bit about the €970, it's, unsurprisingly, sold out.

Images from Selectism and Coute Que Coute/Pop

Hub spins a Yarn.

You know what? Dublin is great. But, sadly, with regard to all things fashion, London is still superior and consistently wins out in terms of attracting design/fashion/photography graduates. While I realise Ireland's capital is a much smaller size, it's still frustrating to miss out on the Anglo action across the Irish Sea. Case in point? - London's brace of boutiques based on Stoke Newington Church St. known as Hub. Not only do these clever people stock some of the top Euro fashion-makers including Acne, Won Hundred and Humanoid, but they also produce some in-house wonder with womenswear and menswear labels, Beth Graham and Yarn, respectively.

100% brushed cotton shirts by Yarn

AW is the season which often sees my attention redirected to traditional (and often utilitarian) aesthetics. I glean inspiration from an arresting photo of a Cornish miner, nuances of the English gentleman's country attire or the Christopher Bailey-approved (see Burberry Prorsum AW09) flat cap. Thus, brands of a more simple, no-fuss disposition like Yarn hold the most potential during the bleaker months.

Yarn's aim is to proffer clothing of "honest simplicity", and they're pretty much spot on with a host of classic shapes in traditional fabrics. Design and manufactured locally, using the best of British materials, it's quality, no-frills shirting like this, that your Grandfather probably swore by. And it's easy to see why.

Being Christopher Bailey.

It's not often you get to meet those who truly forward the march of fashion. Responsible for designing each and every one of Burberry's numerous lines, Christopher Bailey is one such figure, and by some extraordinary stroke of fate I had the opportunity yesterday to hear just how he does it.

First off, I need to mention that Bailey is a genuine man unlike many of the fake/overtly superficial/enormously egotistical members of the industry I've met, an undoubted opposite of the fashion cliché. This, I established primarily from his handshake. Fair enough, this may seem an entirely inappropriate (and frankly, odd) point to foreground but a firm handshake is quite rare and give me a weak one, well there's no point in us talking at all...

It's not just his innate knack for PR that's impressive though, his drive, passion and hunger for the betterment of the brand is evident. Deirdre McQuillan, Fashion Editor of The Irish Times, quizzed Bailey on personal background and Burberry itself (while looking dashing herself, having accessorised with a grayscale check Burberry scarf and black leather fingerless gloves...an Anglo-inflected Karl Lagerfeld look that won me over).

Topics included: online retailing (expect Burberry's best to appear on the web soon), finding the efficient fusion of aesthetics and economics ("creativity" is key but business is crucial), the reclamation of the Burberry check (be gone ye chavs and football hooligans), Bailey's previous stints at Donna Karan and Tom Ford's Gucci (both of whom he lauded) and Burberry's phenomenal environmental protection measures (32 tonnes of paper (!) have been saved by halting printing of lookbooks etc.).

Having read in this interview Bailey did with the v. dapper Colin McDowell, in which Bailey expressed his love for his West-Yorkshire home, I asked whether his design aesthetic was influenced by the landscape etc. The answer? Not exactly, but he did admit it informs all he does. I'm still not convinced, all those fair isle knits and flat caps from this season's menswear? If that doesn't scream bogger (and I should know...), I don't know what does.

^ Burberry Prorsum AW09

Just as Bailey so resolutely declared mid-interview - "I can't bear dim people". Rest assured - he's not one of those.

Image from GQ