FxF: The Third Wave.

People are usually surprised when they learn of my not studying something fashion-related. I mean, obviously, I have a significant interest but the prospect of countless hours bent over a Singer cursing unsteady hands and unruly fabric ensured I never even conceived of the thought to study the art. Well, there was also the small matter of my being bereft of any semblance of handcrafting/artistic talent.

So I chose Film Studies (and German but shhh, at least I get to go to Berlin next year) and haven't looked back. Any why would I when these two major art-forms are now in the habit over overlapping v. often? Film operates much like fashion - ever eager to identify the young talent which will revolutionise the form, influenced by trends which emerge with a furore and die out unbeknownst to most a little later. On the other hand, fashion cites film as an endless source of inspiration and film now provides a new - often, much cheaper - medium for the presentation of a designer's collection. It enables the designer to imbue the film's own style (using techniques of editing, a particular soundtrack and a great deal more choreography than is permissible as part of a runway show) with their design aesthetic.

Naturally, then, it's time to start featuring these instances of creative crossover. For the first in this series, here's the result of a collab. between ballet choreographer Benjamin Millipied and sportswear brand Y-3 for The Last Magazine which makes tracksuits and mesh appealing as ever - The Third Wave.

Directed by The Last Magazine's Magnus Berger

Co-directed by Jacob Sutton

Produced by The Last Magazine's Tenzin Wild

Choreographed by Benjamin Millepied

Styling by Alistair McKimm

London Menswear AW10: Carolyn Massey's Obsolete Prototype C53.

Sometimes getting out of bed early proves so very worthwhile. Case in point: Carolyn Massey's AW10 show Obsolete Prototype C53, recently held on LFW's menswear day. While I may have rolled off the sista's couch amid jet-lag-assuaging sleep in order to allow time for trekking to Manor House tube station, I was - just a minute into the show - reminded of how privileged I was to witness Massey's genius work its sartorial wonders once again. Yes, I know this sounds gushing, but it's difficult not to be when a designer manages to bring together all of the aesthetic elements that inform your own personal style.

This season, Massey was inspired by a body of military patterns (many of which date back to WWII) sourced from an anonymous donor, which were suited to her trademark - and my preferred - silhouette - strong shoulders and not-too-lean trousers. The palette, which moves from dusky to dark, derives from a fondness for the "Tokyo morning sunrise" so that the stark robustness of the military is offset by the soft rose-tinted stripe or pair of trousers.

Undoubtedly, though, the impact was carried to its full potential by men's jeweler Hannah Martin's who, adopting military insignia as a starting point, fused heritage with contemporary to produce badges that resembled ninja death-stars but were so much more. Obv.

Oh, and as you're aware, previous seasons saw leggings for men (Tisci), Massey now proffers fishnets for the boys and I can't honestly say I'm averse...

Images from The Fashionisto

Pre-show Q+A: Lou Dalton.

Awoke early this morning to share this brief pre-show Q+A with the acclaimed Lou Dalton (she of the somewhat altered English gentry/sports-wear). Pics are from Dalton's Spring 2010 collection - certainly the best homage to sea-bandits I've come across...

What inspired you this season (AW 2010)?

A recent trip to the Isle of Skye

Will we see a return to your off-kilter English sportswear aesthetic for this collection?

I never steer too far away from it, however, it is always important to put a new spin on things...

Any interesting stories/anecdotes regarding the production of this collection?

Time, time, time, lack of it.

What do you feel will be the key menswear item/piece for AW10?

Anything by Lou Dalton will for sure get you through the season!

Images from The Fashionisto

London-bound.

Just a note to the effect that I'm off to London tomorrow for a spot of menswear-gawking. Still haven't packed. Wish me luck and see you back here in a few days to drool over AW10 action.

I leave you with shots from the lookbook of Lee (Alexander) McQueen's final collection for McQ, which screams London in a delightful punk/skin/f*ck you way.

Images from Refinery29

Backstage at Robert Geller FW 2010.

The attention of aficionados may have just been diverted to London (and rightly so, this season should prove to be another sizeable step for London-based menswear), I'm still fawning over some of what went down in New York. Robert Geller, one of NY's triumvirate of finest fashion-makers for men (along with Patrik Ervell and Phillip Lim), produced another stand-out collection.

^ Robert Geller FW 2010

Mixing ostentatious, statement-making fur stoles, the archetypal dandy pattern of pinstripe and a palette of Fall/Winter-appropriate but far from lacklustre colours, Geller further refined his vision of modern menswear while still borrowing heavily from the tradition of the simultaneously outré and understated.

Still, I could be seeing it all through the rose-tined (or, more accurately, monochrome) lens of photographer Zachary Bako who documented the backstage madness from the outset, rendering a much more artful and poignant version of the prep-mayhem. I may not have made it across the pond but this photo-doc makes the fact that bit more bearable.

^ Backstage at Robert Geller FW 2010 by Zachary Bako

Runway images from GQ.

Topman LENS SS10: Season of the Best Yet.

Most have probably perused this collection already but since it's millennia ahead of any work that's been produced for LENS previously, I reckoned it was due another mention. This season's designers include proponent of the storied and chicly-rugged gentleman, Carolyn Massey, Scandi-clean yet decidedly quirky Mjolk, the inspired, up-and-coming and Finnish Dusty, the 90s fashion hallmark-maker Dexter Wong and he of the dandy and minimalist/sleek juxtaposition, Kasper Harup-Hansen.

^ Carolyn Massey: From top - Canvas bomber jacket £80, Black twill jacket £120

^ Kasper Harup-Hansen: From top - Lace bib front tee £30 (girls have reaped the benefits of this French-maid fabric for much too long, now it's our turn), Grey jodhpur £50, Contrast bib cardigan (so often 'contrast' inevitably leads to too-graphic/geometrical designs that lean more towards the year 2679 rather than a sharp aesthetic, this slightly softer, more subtle approach is much better) £50.

^ Dexter Wong: From top - Long-joe black jersey £40, Long boiler-suit (want updated-for-Spring/Summer workwear? look no further...)£80

^ Dusty: Blue winged short £40

Some of you may be remarking on the rather extensive lack of colour in this collection but these are just personal highlights, Mjolk and Dexter Wong do much more red, and Dusty are proffering a lemon pastel lightweight knit if you're a brighter-shade-chaser.

Images from Topman

Q+A: Designer Steve Corcoran.

I've often lamented the lack of visible Irish talent abroad. I mean, there are few established Irish in the industry (Sharon Wauchob, Philip Treacy, etc.) but, by and large, any menswear-oriented grads this country produces are working within houses rather than going it all on their own. Enter NCAD- and recent LCF-grad Steve Corcoran, the man whose further blurring the boundaries between a certain feminine pomp and a distinctly masculine tailored edge.

Pictures from Steve's LCF MA collection - Regalia

What led you to menswear as a field of study?

Fashion was never my intended career choice, I always had an interest in architecture and product design so I entered Dublin's National College of Art and Design to study Industrial Design. After almost a year I realised it just wasn’t creative enough for me and made a snap decision to transfer to fashion and I have never looked back!

You seem to have incorporated architectural references as well as pointers to military design in your work. How would you describe your design aesthetic?

Architecture has always been a huge interest of mine and when it became apparent that it wasn’t right for me as a career choice I always knew that it would influence my work as a designer.

Can you tell us about your NCAD graduate collection which was inspired by architect Frank Lloyd Wright?

Yes, my NCAD graduate collection was based on the life and work of Frank Lloyd Wright, I found him inspirational as he was so innovative and ahead of his time. Some of his work which is almost a century old still looks futuristic, having said that, I find a certain timelessness to all his work. He also never just designed a building but he also considered its contents and surrounding landscape, he was obsessive about detail. It is this attention to detail that is so important in menswear which is why I design complete outfits including accessories such as bags and belts.



^ Solomon Guggenheim Museum by Frank Loyd Wright

Your MA collection addresses concepts of militarism, hierarchy and coding through design (the crystal embellishment). Can you tell us a bit about the inspiration behind, and production of, this collection?

My MA collection, “Regalia”, is based on the obsession that society has with branding. It looks at how far we have taken brand logos, for example the Gucci or Louis Vuitton logos which you can find emblazoned across a plethora of products both real or counterfeit.
This collection attempts to brand itself without using a logo but instead using crystal embellishment inspired by the military regalia. Similar to the system of rank within the military, the hierarchy of the garments is reflected in the crystal embellishment.
The placement of the crystals were inspired the work of the sculptor Richard Long who creates vast works out of stone and wood within the landscapes in which he finds them.
The collection was produced here in London with most of the fabrics either being French or Italian including double faced silks, 100% cashmeres and crocodile embossed leathers. I individually designed all of the crystal components which were hand made in Hong Kong.



^ Sahara Line by Richard Long

This collection also fuses a distinctly feminine aesthetic with the obviously masculine connotations of the military. Do you feel menswear is now embracing the traditionally 'feminine' in some way?

I have always been a fan of feminine colour palettes and fabrics so I have combined these with very structured masculine shapes. I think the male consumer is becoming more adventurous and willing to explore softer colours and more luxurious fabrics. Both high-street and high-end menswear is becoming increasingly feminine, even though I realise it would take a braver man than most to wear my collection down the street!




Being an Irishman, do you feel you heritage informs your aesthetic or the way in which you work at all?

I feel that my Irish heritage certainly influenced my BA collection which included oversized chunky hand-knitted jumpers but, having moved to London, I was influenced by a huge range of other things which maybe overshadowed this aspect of my designs. I was keen to incorporate Irish components in my work and had begun working with Waterford Crystal on the crystal elements of the garments but unfortunately the downturn in the economy meant that they were no longer able to take part in the project.






Do you have a favourite designer?

There are many designers which I love, but no one that I am obsessive about. Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme was one of my favourite design collaborations, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy is probably my favourite womenswear designer. Burberry is one of my all-time favourite labels as it's infinitely wearable and beautifully made.

You were recently awarded the Guo scholarship which will see you travel to China, tell us more about this opportunity and what you'll get up to in China. Any other plans for the near future?

Yes! It is a really great opportunity. On top of helping to pay back some of my mounting student loan I will be travelling to Hong Kong for a year to design a range of menswear and womenswear for Yishion. I will be travelling a lot for sourcing and research so I can't wait to get started! After that, who knows, London is my favourite place right now so I think I will eventually end up back here...
There are also some other projects coming up which I am really excited about but I'll have to wait and see how things pan out. I'm in talks with Harrods at the moment, and when I'm back in London in two weeks, i'll be off to Buckingham Palace to meet the Queen which is a huge honour and something I'm really looking forward to!

Images from Wikipedia and Richard Long

Basil Racuk - Americana Made Irresistible.

London menswear is fast approaching and I find myself, once again, deliberating over what to cram into a minuscule Ryanair carry-on bag. It's too cold to go all SS10 and not quite cold enough to justify AW-esque layers and fur (who am I kidding I don't even have any...). I may still be in sartorial limbo as regards my clothing but were the shows taking place in four to six weeks from now, I know exactly the bag I'd be hauling on to that flight.

Basil Racuk is a California-based leather goods brand. The kind that's of good quality, unfussy aesthetics and pure, unadulterated, saliva-inducing style. Inspired by Northern California's renowned and wide-reaching history of craft, Basil actually succeeds in what so many other designers seek to do - updating something influenced by the past for wearing in the present (quite literally with the iPhone case). Each piece is crafted from full-grain deerskins or cowhides and requires four to six weeks of production. Usually, my accessories are a little more enlivened (in terms of colour etc.) than these, but no matter really, they're good enough to eat and surely, by extension then, they're more than ripe for wearing (excuse the food/clothing comparisons, it's nearing lunchtime). Workwear may have crept onto the runways a few seasons ago but what with all the sh*t-kicking boots etc. that have been proposed for AW10, I reckon it's a style that's not likely to budge any time soon. Here, for me, is where it starts...

^ Top - Painted satchel, Bottom - Painted soft brief. Vegetable-tanned, 5 ounce-weight leather. Basil uses indigo dye sourced from Japan to create a striated effect, which takes full effect after three weeks of conditioning.

^ iPhone case.

^ Small Voyager. Basil terms this the "2.0", souped-up version of its predecessor, the original Voyager. New features include taped seams and double-rivets at the strap attach.

^ Undoubtedly my favourite - the belt/suspender. A latigo leather style, which is multi-functional in purpose in that suspender component can be detached. Available in black, dark brown, and vegetable-tan.

^ Another latigo leather model - the hard brief. This bag marries the robustness of the briefcase with the chic of an attaché.

Basil Racuk is available at Unionmade in San Francisco and Leffot in NYC.

All Up in Your Times.

Just a note to say that Deirdre McQuillan, Fashion Ed of The Irish Times, was kind enough to feature me in her weekly My Style section in this weekend's Irish Times Magazine. In true lazy blogger fashion I've not posted about this 'til today but if you happen to have the paper in your possession, you can find my mug and musings on page 15. Failing that, you can have a gander online.

Alexander McQueen - An Appreciation.

I didn't know him or his. But what I do know is he was an inspiration to all, an incredibly fearless artist and an all-round fashion legend. His menswear may have been hit or miss when it came to playing to my taste, but his general design aesthetic and vision has remained unconventional and outlandish in the best sense.

So, consider this a tribute of sorts to one of fashion's finest - Lee McQueen...

^ SS09

^ SS05

^ AW10

^ AW09

^ AW07

Images from GQ

What Women Want - Ana K of Ripped-Knees

While the Irish fash-blogosphere is on-the-up, there are few that have established well-written, style-savvy and entirely accessible blogs. Ana K of Ripped-Knees pens pieces on why you should love Lanvin, then, with incredible ease and in a seemingly effortless manner, applies post-modern theory to fashion. Ana's got brains in abundance, great style and a bit of thing for menswear so...

Images from GQ and The Sartorialist selected by Ana

Describe the look you'd don were you male rather than the fairer sex.

In my own style I've always been influenced by women like Annie Hall, Chan Marshall and Katherine Hepburn - any woman who kind of appropriates menswear for themselves and makes it more feminine than masculine. Menswear plays a huge role in my wardrobe, both in terms of getting dressed up and taking it easy (right now I am wearing men's pajamas from Dunnes Stores).

However, if I were in fact a man, the first thing I can see is scarves and coats, big ones with heavy shoulders. In my own wardrobe proportions and silhouettes play a big role and as a boy it'd be the same - heavy and voluminous on top but with a slim leg. I can also see... navy. I can't imagine myself in jeans but rather slightly smarter pants. Also plaid shirts, although that might be because I find them so attractive on the opposite sex already. I really like anything collegiate or academic, without being too preppy, so there'd be a healthy dose of that in there too - shirts with sleeves rolled up . Basically think old Dior Homme meets the more recent Marni stuff.



What do you think are the fundamental differences between menswear and womenswear? Can you imagine any advantages to being male when it comes to dressing oneself?

I honestly think it's easier for girls, once you start to make an effort. Especially nowadays, girls can look stylish by throwing on a pair of leggings and a casual dress and then something with studs or leather. And there are so many options for girls there on the high street. But guys have to contend with this whole tailoring thing, which baffles me, and I can't imagine having to deal with the complexities of a minute difference in a cuff or a sleeve. There are definitely advantages, though. I think once guys have dealt with the shopping-for-clothes part, which is the hard part, actually putting together an outfit is kind of easy - white buttoned shirt, nice pair of pants or jeans and a jacket et voila, you automatically look classy and sexy and stylish but not too stylish at the same time.

Is there a particular menswear designer you're willing to starting creating womenswear/Do you have a favourite menswear designer?

So many! I loved the Fall 2010 Lanvin collection and Rick Owens is such a genius in general. Same goes for Jil Sander and Marni. With regards to gentlemen-only labels, I'd love to see what would happen if Thom Browne designed more for girls, just out of curiosity more than anything else.

Do you have a male style icon?

Tom Ford! Don Draper from Mad Men. Chuck Bass from Gossip Girl. I don't know, I am so not in tune with celeb culture so this is hard. I like what a lot of my male friends wear and what my boyfriend wears, but mostly being around really well-dressed men just makes me want to dress even more feminine.

What do you think men should wear more?

Plain white shirts. I say this all the time, and a lot of guys say they don't like them because they wore them as part of a school uniform for so long, but I actually don't care. They make 95% of men look better. I would also say plaid shirts, but I think a lot of boys are so so bad with mixing patterns and prints that it's best to just stick to plain block colours.

Ana's menswear-inspired mode...



The main way I use menswear in my wardrobe is to dress something down - I've a fan of both harsh tight black/dark clothes and also the occasional whimsical floral number. Both styles can end up looking way too out-there for daytime, so I often use menswear - think oversized plaid shirts, large plain white polo shirts, mannish combat boots or a heavy-shouldered man's blazer - to keep a day outfit from looking too nighttime. It also stops me from looking too feminine, like if I had paired this outfit with a little cardi instead of a men's shirt, I'd end up looking way more girly and frivolous than I usually feel. Here I'm wearing a plaid shirt I got in Urban Outfitter's (men's section) for 6 euro with a James Perse tank top, black AA pencil skirt, tights from Topshop, boots from Urban Outfitters again and bag from Balenciaga.