Staple Sweaters from Oki-Ni

I've not really made it much of a secret that I've been heralding rather than lamenting the arrival of Autumn. Not only is this the season you get to pile on chunky knits, wear socks with shoes (f**king foot comfort...finally!), and start budgeting for another pair of all-important boots, it's also, however, the one that leaves you huddled in your hallway ignoring knocks at the door from a seemingly insatiable debt collector - or is that just the way I imagine myself turning out after I've pored over the below?

Most of the stock featured on online advocate of avant-garde menswear, Oki-ni.com, has, and will be for the foreseeable future, out of my price-range, but a spot of Autumn Winter 2010 porn never hurt, right? Here are just a couple of my picks from the latest collections to go live:

^ Alexander McQueen Mock Neck Knitted Jumper - Ultra soft wool? Intarsia skulls and heritage patterns? Am sold.

^ Warriors of Radness Dunes Sweater - Quite like the oversized pocket in the front, can imagine wearing it is something akin to being a rather large stoplight red kangaroo. Win.

Raun Larose AW10: New Talent from NYC

With such a wealth of menswear talent in existence and emergence in London, it's sometimes easy to forget about designers stateside. Although I'd turn to Paris over New York when scrolling through next season collections on GQ.com, it's the latter that, with its unpretentious and relaxed aesthetic, often inspires my day-to-day style. That said, there's no doubt the optimum look would be a hybrid of the two fashion capitals, and Brooklyn-based Raun Larose seems to concur with his AW10 collection of jersey, wool, and that now firm fashion favourite - neoprene.

I dug a little deeper to learn more about NY's latest menswear talent...

MM: What experience do you have in the industry? Did you study fashion?

RL: I've interned at Zac Posen in Paris, interned at the fashion department of VIBE Magazine, and then eventually went on to start my label Raun

LaRose. Although, i'm still searching for opportunities on a daily basis. I attended the Art Institute of NYC, Lately, I attended FIT. Where I

took courses in Menswear Design.

MM: What inspired the AW10 collection?

RL: With this collection I didn't want to be inspired by one thing in

particular. If I said I was, then I would be lying. I wanted to produce

garments that just looked more like works of art.

MM: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

RL: As for my aesthetic, I design for the individual who is in search of

change in his daily wardrobe. I love sophistication with a modern

twist. I've been dubbed the 'American European'. It took me a while to

discover my appreciation for European culture and design.

But I also know that I don't want to have a signature as a designer, I don't want to be known for doing only one thing. I always hope to

push boundaries.

^ Love the simplicity, and Raf Simons-esque quality, of these pieces.

^ Two options for eveningwear - go safe, but decidedly slick, or go a bit mad with the belted, crazy collared number that Rei Kawakubo wishes she had designed.

________________________________________________________

Since Larose's website seems on the brink, follow him on Twitter for updates.

Murdock London: The Best Barber's in Town

Great and all as it is, I'm going to attempt to reign in my gushing for London in the hopes that what's being reported from various sources is of some truth - that Dublin's undergoing somewhat of a renaissance with countless creative club nights, vintage stalls, and finally a street-style blog that faithfully represents us paddies not as perma-tanned Uggs aficionados or try-hard indie-types getting it all so v. wrong, but as the eclectic, exciting, and - dare I say it - sexy bunch we really are.

One thing I'm pretty sure we're lacking, though, is a bloody good barber's of the Murdock London ilk. Established by an Irishman, Brendan Murdock, in 2006, Murdock is a series of barbershops spread over London's ample central area catering to the modern man whose just as interested in engaging in a bit of old-school dandy styling as he is in getting a damn good chop. With three locations dotted throughout the UK capital (the original store in Shoreditch, for which the likes of quiff-devotee Pelayo opts, the Liberty's store, which also offers treatments for those barnets in need of buffering, and the v. traditional Mayfair branch, which, situated just off Old Bond St., caters to London's professional and tourist types), the brand never ceases to please.

^ The unbeatably spiffy Murdock Mayfair shop window

Having been invited to the Mayfair store for a complimentary haircut or shave by the v. lovely Lewis last week, I couldn't really refuse. I opted for the haircut despite having had the mop seen to by the amazing Jess of Ego Hair on Neal Street (as recommended by LSoD) just a few weeks prior - blame the thick, fast-growing hair genes. Can't really say just how glad I am now that I did.

^ Handsome genius with a clippers, Stephane, who not only gave me the subtle quiff I was after, but also prevented me from downing that Peroni at a breakneck speed.

Having been given a tour of the store which, in terms of décor, is v. much catering towards the trappings of old-world gentlemanliness - think red leather barber's chairs complete with iron-plate footrests (felt all v. Sweeney Todd minus the serial-killing and cannibalism of course, naturally, I loved it) and wood-panelled interiors, I was handed a cold beer and seated with Stephane, one of three stylists at the store, who, in stark contrast to every other person whose hands were responsible for my hair, asked me at regular intervals what look I was after, rather than carelessly flaunting technique.

And it's not just cold beers and quality hairstyling that Murdock offers, each store also stocks rare brands from likes of the fragrances of French perfumers Molinard, to Fin's suede loafers. So, not only do you emerge with a good cut, but you can leave looking and smelling the proper dandy, too.

And the result having had mah hur deed...

^ Shirt from River Island

Icarus Store: Australia's Own Menswear Mecca

Is it just me is 90% of the Irish population hopelessly in love with the idea of emigrating to Australia? I've never been the sun, sea, and surf kind of guy who relishes the prospect of spending hours on end on a scorching hot beach, not getting up to much apart from lounging around under UV rays and glugging Corona. Ok - random post intro but this does have some relevance as I've just come across Reason No. 1 as to why I should consider developing my own personal obsession - Sydney's Icarus Store.

Launched in mid 2010, the brainchild of Nathan Lim, Icarus Store goes where every other Australian retailer has feared to tread, stocking international labels from NY-based minimalist Patrik Ervell to Topman LENS collaborators, Mjölk. I caught up with Nathan to dig a little deeper on this retail wonderland down under...

MM: What convinced you to open a menswear boutique?

NL: I opened Icarus Store based on the observation of a lack of inspiring clothing stores currently on offer to male shoppers in Sydney or even Australia. I felt that Sydney was missing a dedicated menswear boutique catering to savvy male shoppers who appreciate well crafted clothing and are very much “quality over quantity”.

^ Various views of Icarus' enticing shop window

What's your professional background? Have you always been in fashion?

My background has been in finance working for a large consulting firm however I’ve had a lifelong ambition of owning my own store. Although I don’t have any fashion industry experience per se, there’s always been an interest and I hope to bring a different and fresh perspective to retailing in Sydney.

^ Inside the store. Someone feature this in a visual merch. how-to book now.

MM: What sets Icarus apart from its competitors?


NL: From the moment you step into the store, you won’t feel any pressure to buy anything. We aim to offer friendly and personalized service which is a rarity to find these days. In addition, I see Icarus as a relaxed and laid back store environment where everyone is welcome to hang out and shoot the breeze.

MM: I hate to use the term 'must-have', but is there a particular item you'd strongly recommend for AW10?

NL: My favourite menswear designer at the moment is Patrik Ervell. His clothes are very non-showy which is why I probably identify with it. The piece I’m looking forward to most in the collection is the Field Coat – his take on the iconic M-65.

^ The exposed brick wall serves as a reminder of what previously occupied the store space - a period terraced house, amaze, no? Craving the ecru canvas Commune de Paris tote on the right.

____________________________________________

Icarus Store is at 42 Reservoir St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010, Australia. If you're not in the area you can stock up on all the indie designer goodness at Icarusstore.com

Fine Tees & F. Scott Fitzgerald.

With my time in London coming to a close for now, I thought it was time to loosen budget constraints a little (unpaid work will leave you homeless, but you know, it's good experience!) and buy a little British for something to remember my -*CHEESE ALERT* - Summer of sometimes debauched, other times dignified, always unforgettable, frolics and fashion. Can't really believe I just said that...

What I've picked up, though, is more a NYC-themed haul than London-centric (esp. considering Topman is now storming over stateside and what with Scott Fitzgerald often being labelled the quintessential American author). How and ever, these are cheap staples that I plan to wear - and er...read - to rags.

^ Navy crewneck tee from Gap (£8); Striped scoopneck tee from Topman (£14)

Finding good quality tees on the high street always proves more difficult than I anticipate it to be. Whether the fit is too second-skin or too boxy, whether the tee shrinks beyond all recognition after just one wash, or whether it's unravelling having just been through just one night out on the town, a good tee is every bit as elusive as the perfect pair of jeans. Of the two above, the Gap tee fits well and feels incredibly good, while the Topman (being Topman) is of decent quality but probably won't be lasting me longer than the usual six months cycle. Still, it's Breton-esque, and you'll probably have guessed by now, I'm a bit of a stripe nut.

^ F Scott Fitzgerald novels for the price of an apple (probably)

Most well-dressed folk I know invariably recommend spending hours on end trawling through mounds of tat in charity shops in the hopes of unearthing a gem amongst the previously owned rough. I have nothing against wearing previously worn clothing, but I'm not going to give up several hours which could be spent either drinking coffee (or gin for that matter...), reading, or having a LOL with friends in order to wade through Dublin's decidedly average Oxfams. Well, not regularly anyway. What I will do, though, is happily buy more books than I can comfortably carry for the price of a couple of months Attitude or Dazed. These are two of one of my fave author's novels that I've been trying to track down for a while now, and when Little London Fields Festival and some quaint, and endearingly chaotic old bookshop in Finsbury Park proffered, I couldn't really refuse now, could I?

Note: If you're considering digging in to some Scott Fitzgerald, I'd recommend Tender is the Night over the so often hyped up and entirely overrated The Great Gatsby. Just sayin'.

WIN: Wingate Prints Winner.

After what's proved a rather lengthy deliberation over all your entries for the Wingate Prints comp, I've finally narrowed it down to one. Congrats Dave Wrenne! And props for your entry which boasted both eye-catching prints and an interesting concept to boot. 

Dave selected designs featured in the News Knitter collection as his favourite prints and below he explains in brief and certain terms just why:

"News Knitter is a set of 10 unique, knitted garments as an exploration of textiles as an alternative medium to visualize large scale data. It involves converting information gathered from daily political news into clothing. Also, live feeds are analyzed, filtered, and converted into a unique visual pattern for a knitted sweater, so that each sweater is the graphic result of a specific day or period. I love that the prints aesthetically interesting and intellectually stimulating.".

Thanks to everyone who entered, all of your entries were great!

Michael Kampe: Exploding the Mores of Menswear.

Is menswear really as constipated as many still claim? Everyone talks boundaries, limitations, strictures...but, aside from the given (men probably aren't going to embrace skirts or bustiers wholeheartedly), recent seasons have seen a fairly rapid expansion of what's deemed conventional for men to wear - from meggings to mlutches. 

F**k-off drama, though, still only seems to reign in the realm of womenswear. Aside from Thom Browne and Galliano, designs that revel in excess just aren't that common on the runways of men's fashion week. Enter ITS#NINE winner Michael Kampe whose imposing work is set to radically change the mores of menswear. Still a student at the frankly amaze Antwerp's Royal Academy, German native Kampe won this year's top prize (€25,000 and an internship with Diesel at its HQ in Italy) for his collection inspired by the exploded view of engineering drawings...er, yeah, I didn't have a clue either - check this for enlightenment.

^ A digitally printed jumper from Kampe's collection

Kampe took this source of his inspiration as the blueprint for his construction, 'exploding' staples like a trench or a parka and re-constructing them using, for example, digital printed cotton on foam. Alongside items like the patchwork denim jacket that caught Diesel's collective eye, sit (or rather loom) mammoth multifaceted creations featuring digital prints of a rare photo series by Naoya Hatakeyama. 

^ The patchwork denim jacket which is also lined with indigo-dyed linen

See more of Kampe's BA grad collection, here. Check out Daryoush Haj-Najafi's interview with Kampe for Vice Style for more on the designer's work, tutelage, and fondness for Diesel. PS. I know, Vice comes up with something remotely interesting that's not written in that cringe-inducingly obnoxious tone, whodathunkit?

Images from Vice Style

Aertex: Shaping Menswear Since 1888.

I love a good heritage brand, don't you? All the meaty history and years of manufacturing and production experience form an enticing combination. As we all know, making the daily decision of what to wear isn't just a case of opting for what's aesthetically pleasing (or clean, as is often the case with myself), but also involves the consideration of clothing as a signifier. Without delving too far into semiotics, it's interesting to note that what you don instantly communicates something to those who see you in daily life - be it an insight into your personality, your mood, or - and this is this post's chief theme - an advocation of a particular style or brand. Heritage brands, steeped in history as they are, hold the added appeal of conveying a whole host of stories through their wares.

Aertex, born back in 1888 under the helm of Lewis Haslam, is one such brand. I'm not going to regurgitate the brand's v. extensive bio here since it's done in a much more informative and entertaining fashion on the site than I could ever provide, but suffice to say that from Haslam's invention of the breathable fabric, Aertex, to the house's integral role in sporting circles (their fabric was used in the England team's 1970 World Cup gear), this is a label that's stood the test of time and speaks volumes because of this.

^ Highlights from Aertex's online shop - Clockwise from top: Keele Knitted Sweater at £75; Jarvis Long Sleeve Knitted Jacket at £70; Ric Fleece Over Shirt at £50; Gillett Double Face Check Shirt at £60

Now, having contributed to the world of athletics for decades, the brand has opted to evolve into something of a high-end, high-street label. There's definitely something Fred Perry-esque about the brand's re-direction, with some serious music (think Dirty Pretty Things' Carl Barat and The Charlatans' Jon Brooks) and media (babe Rick Edwards) names being tied to the new aesthetic.

Personally, though, I'm just a bit head over heels for the skinhead styling of their Spring Summer 10 lookbook. It's all Slava Mogutin meets British indie band.

Full Circle AW10: No Mary, but lots of Mots.

You know, I'm pretty sure Mary Portas is God. No mere mortal can manage the feat of looking full-on fierce, aiding helpless retailers to salvage their staid stores, while also managing to be impossibly charming, refreshingly irreverent, and acerbically witty. Oh, and she has a killer bob.

So, it was in the hopes of possibly catching a glimpse of the woman (or is she more deity?) herself that I went along to Yellowdoor's (Portas' London-based PR agency) Autumn Winter 10 press day. As my better judgement had foretold, she was nowhere to be seen. Still, I did manage to drown my disappointment in free champagne cocktails and feasting the eyes upon new season desirables. Case in point - Fullcircle's MOT reversible shirts in blue and red. 

Mot Reversible Check and Chambray Shirt in Blue Mix - £105

And this is the shirt in red - for those of you that may be colour-blind.

 Granted plaid shirts are a fairly knackered option for another season, but the addition of reversibility and a leather-style (it's polyurethane, and for the price-tag they could've gone the whole hog) collar and cuffs just adds enough interest to prevent this future staple being a decent but terminally boring shirt. Oh, and it's reversible, so, like a mullet, it's all business in the front (chambray) and party in the back (plaid). But nowhere near as fugly, obv.

WIN: Owl Neck Sweater by Wingate Prints.

Another week, another opportunity for one of you to bag a sartorial pick-me-up to squash the Monday morning blues. I had mentioned I'd be divvying up blogger loot and I'm not to go back on his word unless, of course, Burberry somehow thought it might be a genius idea to gift me a shearling jacket for the season ahead - such a scenario could call for a new set of rules...

I digress. Shoreditch-based print studio, Wingate Prints, were kind enough to donate the latest giveaway. Founded by Norwich Textiles grad Sam Wingate (whose designs were chosen for the signature design to be seen in DKNY's flagship Bond Street store), the brand consists of everything from printed cushions (think prints of your fave watering holes down East, including The George and Dragon and The Royal Oak) and napkins, to aprons, wallpaper, tees, and sweats. As well as being stocked in several London-based boutiques, Sam transforms his cosy studio into a retail space every weekend, or as he succinctly puts it, "In the back room I print it, in the front room I sell it". No outsourcing bulls**t here, then.

Abounding with architectural references and bold splashes of colour, the Wingate designs have just the right amount of quirk without bordering on cliché kitsch territory. But enough chatter - here's what's up for grabs...

WIN! Owl Neck Sweat by Wingate Prints

 TO WIN: Send a picture of your favourite print (any old image, not necessarily taken by yourself) and a couple of sentences explaining why to cillian[at]male-mode.com. It can be anything from something you saw on a car-seat interior to a the lining of a couture gown. 2) Don't forget to include your name, postal address, and size preference (sizes available are: S/M/L/XL). 3) Competition closes Monday 16th August 2010 at 9am.

Good luck!

Roman Cieślewicz at the Royal College of Art 2010

Since re-designing the blog I've been keen to widen the focus of the content here to reflect 'style' in all its incarnations, rather than concentrating purely on the ins and outs of fashion, which can - I feel - send many blogs to an early grave due to the sheer boredom endless posts on collections that might be out of reach logistically, or financially, can bring to a 'fashion blog'. 

That said, I'll be broaching other subjects (with the exception of film) with as little expertise and as much gushing fanboy love as I've tackled the subject of menswear so don't expect cultural criticism as much as snippets of what intrigues me. Now, with that out of the way, I urge you to get yourself to London's Royal College of Art and to check out their latest exhibition, which features work from Polish-born, French-naturalised graphic artist Roman Cieślewicz (13th January 1990 - 21st January 1996).

Cieślewicz's poster for Hitchcock's Vertigo

Spread over three sprawling rooms, the exhibition provides a thorough insight into the artist's oeuvre, whilst also contextualising each of Cieślewicz's artistic periods using historical details about his life in general. From the surrealistic to the Soviet constructivist, Cieślewicz's work is informed by several styles which he combined within the one work. What interested me most, though, was the artist's work as art director with Elle and contributor to Vogue. I didn't manage to track down the amazing, somewhat surrealistic cover he did for Elle back in what I recall was the 1960s, but it's on show in the RCA if you're about.

A poster for a play by Fernando Arrabal

A poster for Polish retail chain, Moda Polska (Polish Fashion)

The exhibition also just touches on the perpetual question of whether a leftist artist can remain true to his politics if he/she's working with commercial big-name corporates who aren't likely to be on the same ideological wavelength. Although his working with fashion magazines and ad agencies ruled him out as a radical, Cieślewicz still sought to forward the cause of the Left and was honest about the projects he undertook saying something along the lines of, 'I work with companies who have money in order to work for those who don't'.

___________________________________________

Roman Cieślewicz at the Royal College of Art ends today, August 7th 2010.

Images from Revel in New York, Many Stuff, Artnet

Hentsch Man AW10: Hooked on Benny.

In true geriatric fashion I'm going to start this post with another weather-related observation - where did the sun go? Twice this past week I've emerged from the house with high hopes for blue skies and beams and have returned to the house either sodden or windswept, which is why my latest sartorial acquisition couldn't be more welcome.

Hentsch Man, a brand first founded with the aim of creating the perfect white shirt, is a line of v. well cut shirts, trousers, shorts, and some spiffy footwear, that prizes quality craftsmanship and longevity above over-elaborate design.

Benny Shirt for AW10

Designer friends behind the label, Alexia and Max, have already launched an online shop (head over there now if only to check out the jazzy stop-motion animated intro) as well as manned two pop-up shops for AW09 and SS09 in London's Mayfair and Notting Hill, respectively. Their overall brand aesthetic which is pretty pared down wouldn't typically attract me given my personal preference for more embellishment be it stripes or panelling, but once I'd tried on their AW10 'Benny' shirt, I reconsidered.

Crafted from flannel, the shirt comes in a shade that seems equal parts baby blue (fave!) and stone grey and is criminally soft to the touch (have to periodically remind myself to stop stroking and finish writing this...). With considerable brand expansion slated for the upcoming season (including jackets and more shirting), it's exciting to see a small brand succeed in what's so often an industry dominated by the heavyweights. 

Shirt by Hentsch Man, Woven belt from Urban Renewal, Shorts from H&M, Shoes from Topman

________________________________________________

NOTE: It's not often I'm the recipient of blogging-related gifts, but that's not to say my inner slut emerges at the prospect of securing, say, a free sample of skincare products. Hentsch Man is a brand I love I started this blog as an online scrapbook/portfolio of sorts, with the intention of having an outlet for all fashion and style related musings/observations/rants, whilst also providing a site where I could direct those considering giving me writing commissions. The blog's purpose has not veered away from this initial aim, however, most of you will have noticed that I've introduced some advertising (to fund this sojourn in London and future press trips). While I'm divulging, I should add that I've received a few press freebies along the way (including the above), and I'm eager to share the spoils - more on that next week.

Male Muse: Wolfgang Tillmans

I can't say I'm ever head over heels enthused about the prospect of visiting a gallery or museum. This is probably due to the fact that I invariably associate most exhibitions with pained legs as a result of lengthy periods of time spent standing, frustratingly fleshy contextualising written materials that are full of interesting information but are too bloody comprehensive leaving you with no choice but to skim the surface of the subject at hand, sleepiness induced by dead silence, and that incredible distance from the work that somehow often leaves you feeling cold and keenly aware of the whole artificiality of the situation in which you're experiencing the artist's vision.

That said, the current Wolfgang Tillmans' exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery in London's Hyde Park is a welcome exception. I ventured out west last week to take a look and it proved well worth it. Prior to the exhibition, I held scant knowledge of the artist and knew only that he lived in Berlin and London and loved to photograph beautiful boys, which was, for me, enough reason to justify a visit.

Dan

Wald by Wolgang Tillmans

Lauded for his talent of picturing the banalities of the everyday from such a perspective that the boring details of life are transformed into beautiful images imbued with countless potential interpretations, Tillmans won the Turner Prize in 2000 and was featured on the cover of the SS10 issue of Fantastic Man (in which he brilliantly juxtaposes skinhead chic with a domesticity).

Tillmans on the cover of Fantastic Man

Although it's more his art rather personal style I'm feting here, you can't really deny he makes a plaid shirt look especially good.

Portrait by Stuart Mentiply

__________________________________________

Ta-dah! Although it's been an age in the offing, the blog has finally got the re-design that it's been shamelessly begging for for far too long now. You might also notice the subtle addition of "and more" to the header, which loosely translates as, "expect more posts on film and other things not strictly fashion but style-related". Mega thanks to impossibly talented illustrator, and founder of Decoy, Richard Kilroy for his work on the blog header - you've only gone and wow-ed me again with this. Do let me know your thoughts on the blog, whether you think it naff or nifty.

Images from Serpentine Gallery, Ricky Day, Pilot Magazine, and Lolay Maria