Favourite Moments in Film - Hanna ter Meulen.

Many might say that authors like Bret Easton Ellis are a bit like Marmite: you either love it or you hate it, but I've never been one to think in such a black and white fashion, chiefly because I'm rarely passionate enough about anything to come down wholly on one side or the other. I've given Glamourama a go but was never quite absorbed, but I've been told several times that this is a common enough occurrence?

Regardless, what's nigh on indisputable is the influence of Easton Ellis' comprehensive descriptions within his work on the world of menswear. This week, recent RCA grad and Junior Menswear Designer at Aquascutum, Hanna ter Meulen, explains the arresting nature of American Psycho (Mary Harron, 2000) and how it inspired her graduate collection...

My favourite moment in film has to be one from American Psycho, which was the inspiration for my degree collection from the Royal College of Art. I chose the scene in which Patrick Bateman (Christian Bale) and Jean (Chloe Sevigny) sit together in Patrick's apartment because I love the tension. The paintings on the wall from Robert Longo are extremely inspiring (I used these a lot for reference) and Chloe Sevigny and Cristian Bale, I think, are amazing together here. Also, the clothes and the whole colour scheme of the movie were definitely key items for me. I think it's an all-time classic that everyone should watch (altough the book is better!)

- Hanna ter Meulen

^ Robert Longo's Men in the Cities

To see the specific scene Hanna mentions (above), click here.

Bench Wyatt: Boots for AW10 and Beyond.

If it didn't promise to be so embarrassingly cringe-inducing, I think I'd probably consider composing a song in the vein of Marilyn Monroe's Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend, swapping diamonds for boots, and girls for boys. Since stomping onto the menswear market in earnest circa AW09, boots have come to establish themselves as a staple of any self-respecting, half-interested-in-fashion gentleman's wardrobe. And it's with good reason, since - as I've said countless times before - they're to men, what vertiginous heels are to women. Interpret that as you will, but when it comes to gender stereotypes and befitting garb, boots most definitely compound your masculinity.

^ Bench Wyatt boots

Since getting my hands on a pair of Grafters a while back, I've been searching for a more comfortable, versatile pair that would take me from an afternoon of lectures to a house party. After lengthy consideration (Twitter followers may recall my relentless deliberation), I opted for this leather and canvas contrast pair ('Wyatt') from Bench, and my feet are thanking me for it, too.

The Brogue Hunt Begins: Herring's 'Harvey'.

Since shelling out for my definitive pair of AW10 boots from Bench (shots of these to come), I've been switching my attention to acquiring a pair of brogues. *Gasp*. I know, I don't actually own a pair despite the style being a firm favourite of mine (and countless others) for several seasons now. But my current state of broguelessness has not been for want of trying, having pored through several stores and rummaged in the footwear bins of numerous charity shops but to no avail. With the sheer variety of styles on offer (leather, leather and suede, pastel-coloured etc. etc.), the mere thought of having to select just one pair has proved just a bit overwhelming.

Now I'm running out of shoes, and it's high time to cut the bullsh*t and buy the brogues. Below is the current on-top contender from British heritage brand, Herring Shoes...

^ Herring 'Harvey' Brogue, crafted from tweed and chestnut calf leather

Founded in 1966 by Richard Herring, the brand has grown steadily over the decades, setting itself apart from shoddy high-street quality, but taking care not to distance customers on matters of price. Now, with Richard's son, Adrian Herring at the helm of the footwear family business, it continues to offer both reliable British craftsmanship and arresting design. The above is a limited edition so if you fancy it, it's only available while stocks last. Just sayin'.

Discovering 'Camel-lot': AW10's Camel Coats.

It's not that often the disparate worlds men's and womenswear collide but the coming of the Autumn/Winter 2010 season has seen a crossover of the camel coat kind, or 'camel-lot' as it's been dubbed by the fashion press powers-that-be. With throwbacks to the 70s outerwear staple made at several of the most prominent womenswear shows (from Chloe to Lanvin, Aquascutum to Hussein Chalayan), designers' collective penchant for beige has proved zealous enough to extend into the realm of menswear with everyone from British heritage heavyweight Dunhill to Italian luxe specialists Gucci getting in on the honey-hued action.

^ Dunhill AW10

^ Gucci AW10

^ Raf Simons AW10

^ Burberry Prorsum AW10

At the recent Milan womenswear shows Tommy Ton has been capturing the trickling of the trend from high-end catwalks right down to the streets, and the mac seems to be the most frequently opted for option, though I do appreciate the Milanese have probably been enjoying more amicable weather...

For a while, like the author of this trend feature on Men's Flair, I've been wondering whether such a pale colour would prove, well, a bit rotten against my Irish colouring, but I reckon I'm now beyond caring (blame a  recent visit to Dublin's Lucy's Lounge where I tried on a fairly basic, ill-fitting camel coat, which I didn't actually buy, but kind of fell head over heels in love with) and just have to manage to somehow source the requisite finance to secure another addition to the outerwear section of my wardrobe. For those of you who don't want to do too much sourcing, there are a few decent high-street options to choose from:

^ Burton double-breasted peacoat - £140 (there are just 100 of these coats so get to it as when it's gone, it's gone!)

^ Topman cropped trench coat - On sale at £30

Images from GQ, Topman, and Burton

Favourite Moments in Film - Richard Kilroy.

Several months after sweat-inducing battles with HTML to re-design the blog, and I've just realised the header isn't fitting when viewed through Internet Explorer (my apologies, this will be corrected). Durr. Still, with the stunning work from Richard Kilroy adorning it, I feel it's sometimes possible to pass over imperfections in a rush to appreciate his amazing treatment of lines, shading, and the general power to visually arrest. Yes, this week, illustrator and long-time collaborator Richard Kilroy tells us of his favourite moment in film. His choice? Andrew Niccol's Gattaca (1997)...

Gattaca has remained my number one film for years. Not only is the film absolutely gorgeous to watch, but the broader themes and morals that the narrative deals with do genuinely make you think about the human condition and the quest for perfection (something which relates to the fashion industry). Teamed with stunning locales, fantastic dialogue, and a truly beautiful soundtrack by Michael Nyman, everything ties together perfectly.

This brief scene in particular stayed with me the most. Irene (Uma Thurman, who looks absolutely incredible throughout) takes Vincent (Ethan Hawke) to witness a reflected sunrise at what seems to be a solar plant. The main point to the scene is to create more of a bonding moment between the two, and could have easily been left out. But the way it is directed and shot is just mesmerizing; I can't quite explain it. Perhaps the meditteranean hues remind me of holidays and the sense of brief escape, which would be appropriate as Vincent is escaping detection for the duration of the film.

A superb film both on a mental and visual level, it really deserves more attention and praise.

- Richard Kilroy

Forget Me Not's AW10 Take on Folklore.

Adding a silk scarf to your ensemble is a bit like taking the risk of downing that drink that's one drink too many. Well, for me, anyway, considering I don't happen to possess that physical air of artistic haughtiness that lends itself so well to such accessories. Still, there's a first time for everything and I've been meaning to track down a suitable style to team with a roughed-up biker jacket (the search continues...), lean trousers, and penny loafers, and I reckon I may have just found the top contender... 

Forget Me Not is the brainchild of fash illustrator Coco (who's crafted commissions for everyone from Vogue to Elle). The AW10 collection, entitled Mythology, is inspired by the myths of Ancient Greece, and sets itself apart as a range digitally printed silk scarves that are eye-catching (the collection features graphic drawings of beetles and birds) but also easily pulled off, sparing you ostentatious dandy fabulousness (they're black and white), although I can't quite guarantee the lookbook will do the same.

_____________________________

For a full list of stockists, see here.

Favourite Moments in Film - 00o00.

I've harped on to such an incredible extent about fashion and film, their points on intersection, and general respective - and in certain cases, collective - brilliance that I'm going to, in a sense, sit out of the conversation and let others do the talking. From now on, each Friday, the blog becomes a shrine to moments in film, which are not necessarily fashion-related but, as in this premiere case, are.

Joe from 00o00 has an astute eye for all things aesthetic, as well as a formidable brain for all things fiscal, too. His blog both informs and entices with its mix of fashion business news and commentary as well as musings on must-haves. Here's what he had to say about his favourite moment in film - a scene from Tom Ford's directorial debut, A Single Man.

^ Lois & Kenny (Aline Weber and Nicholas Hoult)

There are many brilliant moments in the film, but I remembered this scene, when I thought of how beautiful that girl is. The first thing that came to mind is "Tom Ford for Gucci, that whole mod look, gorgeous". And then there's Nicholas Hoult, devilish yet innocent in that mohair sweater, which I combed the whole of London for, but to no avail. I like that scene. I think it was when Colin Firth's character first saw Nicholas Hoult, the beginning of a glimmer of hope which helped change his mind towards the end.


- 00o00

^ Trailer for A Single Man

Virr: An Aussie Accessories Invasion.

Whilst online shopping has expanded in earnest, from its humble beginnings (Natalie Massenet once reckoned people called her the 'crazy lady', with the internet idea) to its now seemingly limitless heights, it's sometimes easy to forget there are several independents striving to survive within a market dominated by the majors.

One such boutique, The Unconventional, has just recently launched and I'm hoping it'll garner enough support to continue its curation of well-crafted, slightly off-kilter but not unwearably so, clothing and accessories from some of fashion's most exciting but largely unheard names - Finnish label and LENS collaborator Dusty, dropcrotch-tastic I Love Ugly, and accessories label Virr, that's got me a little bit in love.

Established in 2009 by Sydney-based designer J.W. Neate, this Oz label prides itself on its crafting accessories that embody what they seem to call a cross-class aesthetic (the luxurious finish associated with the garb of the rich, and the worn and rugged edge that connotes the not so rich), and the range runs the gamut from footwear to bags and briefcases.

The label's premier collection gleans its inspiration from Englishman Samuel Johnson's poem, The Vanity of Human Wishes, and includes several pieces in an array of leathers and finishes. Below are a few of my lookbook faves...

Thinking the laptop envelope would make a worthwhile purchase, no? After all, it's easily justified, essential for Uni etc. etc. etc.

Belated RCA MA Review: Tomislav Mostecak.

Getting in touch with up-and-coming designers is one of the perks of writing a semi-serious fashion blog, and providing them with support through gushing uncontrollably about their immense talent and freshness of thought is probably one of my favourite things to do here. So, without further ado, brace yourself for the fan-boy...

Tomislav Mostecak, RCA grad and now roomie of Dutch menswear maven Hanna ter Meulen (whom I met whilst in London), is another recent grad who's set to make waves in the industry with his singular, off-beat yet incredibly wearable creations, borne from an aesthetic vision that's as much vibrant punk as it is stark and industrial. We chatted on Leigh Bowery, Bon Jovi, and, oh, you know, cannibalistic tendencies...

MM: Tell us about your background. Where are you from, and what inspired you to come to London to study menswear?


TM: I am from Croatia. I did my BA in Zagreb in Fine Arts - Painting. I was always working with different media and my grandparents were great tailors so clothes turned out to be my favorite one. It also has to do a lot with my sentimental nature. I was always interested in London and its heritage, the age of punk, and how it affected culture generally, and some icons that London produced from Leigh Bowery to Vivienne Westwood to Judy Blame, but also tradition in menswear, such as Savile Row. The menswear course at the RCA seemed to be the most suitable for me. They are known for their very individual approach to each student but also the importance of reference to tradition in menswear.

^ The legwear above reminds me of Rodarte's knits for Opening Ceremony, which can only be a good thing. 

MM: What inspires you as a designer? And how would you describe your aesthetic?

TM: There are many things that inspire me- movies, music, situations, history. My aesthetic is a bit dark and cold. I guess it has to do with the socialist society I was growing up in. Also, uniform inspires me a lot; what I like about it is its inherent paradox; that is, its ability to make one who wears it stronger by giving him certain protection since it identifies a person as somebody who belongs to a group. This strength comes at a price of violence to which a person must subscribe to earn protection sacrificing at the same time his individuality.

MM: Other than designing, what do you enjoy doing most?

TM: It is definitely painting. Nothing can replace the feeling of when I am standing in front of the huge white canvas. I know it sounds a bit cheesy but it's a bit like Jon Bon Jovi videos..

MM: Your collection seems to draw inspiration from sources as disparate as Americana, grunge, fetish, and workwear. What was the inspirational starting point for the collection?

TM: Yes, it is inspired by the cannibalistic scene in the movie Suddenly, Last Summer. Also, there is this constant reference in my work, which is the radical group, Trenchcoat Mafia - who took parents' over-sized trench coats to hide weapons inside them, but also to borrow a mature look. This bricolage action relates to my approach to designing, so I was deconstructing this iconic items - such as donkey jackets, crombies, flight jackets, tonic suits..., and mixing them with military elements, and also adoration of one garment, having in mind this Mackintosh fetishistic group. Also,  I was looking at Larry Clark' s images a lot.

MM: Having graduated from the RCA MA menswear course this year, what are your plans for the future?


TM: Well, the good thing is that some shops showed interest in my clothes, so I was very happy when some of the pieces from my graduate collection went into small production. Also, I had some orders from people whose opinion I really appriciate, and I am super happy that they want to wear it! Also, I was interviewed by some Milanese and Parisian fashion houses so I will see what happens. I would really like to do my next collection, and start my own label but let's see...

MM:Your life mantra?

Sonic Youth's Drunken Butterfly

Uniforms for the Dedicated: The New Menswear Collective.

I do love a good design collective. Ever since Underlining Colours (now The Grit) got in touch with me about a feature way back when, I've been itching to discover more disciples of fashion/art/design that have banded together to pool their creativity in order to make really beautiful work that wouldn't otherwise be produced.

Established in 2007, but having somehow evaded my radar until recently, Uniforms of the Dedicated is one such team of tastemakers. With the intention of fashioning a "playground of men's fashion, music, art projects, and film", Uniforms break new ground in the world of all things menswear, shooting music videos (more like fully-fledged fashion films) for their self-composed songs, which feature their self-designed clothing line, as well as their self-created artwork. Suffice to say that this lot are packing intimidating talent.

The latest in a series of collaborative films entitled March of No Coincidence brings together producers Jonas Rathsman and Nils Krogh and former lead singer of Swedish band Zeitgeist, Maria Nordström. The video itself smacks of German Expressionist classics like The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari but puts a more humorous twist on the traditionally Gothic style. Naturally, it also places the spotlight on the collective's collection (not exactly AW10 seeing as it's an ongoing project rather than a fashion brand, but still made more for the shiver-inducing months, rather than Spring/Summer) which is, in itself, an incredible feat.

Have a gawk for yourself below, and drool over my personal fave of the collection (also an item advocated by Selectism), the Anthem jacket.

Embracing the Cable.

So what was supposed to be a few hours spent scouring for the sexiest, best value boots online turned into an entire Sunday evening deliberating over styles and even resorting to Twitter to ask your opinions, though I could think of worse ways of spending the last few hours of the weekend. For those of you who recommended the Bench Wyatt, well, that's what I went with in the end. Who'd have thought a casuals brand that could, for me, previously only connote D4 girls' asses in sweatpants would proffer such great footwear for men?

Anyway, being the impulsive wreck that I am when it comes to a spot of online shopping, the boots weren't alone in my shopping bag, but rather enjoyed the good company of - amongst other items - a chunky cable crew knit from ASOS (yes, I know, I need to be curbing the addiction soon...), which I'm quite excited about but still not wholly satisfied with, since it was not my original choice. If you thought my hunt for boots was extensive, then you'll not believe the time I spent trawling through teh interwebz to find something of a cable ilk to keep me insulated on top for the months ahead.

^ ASOS Cable Crew Knit AKA the one I bought

Never my first port of call, but offering the best jumper I've seen so far is this Tommy Hilfiger cricket jumper that is going for chips, but, hélas, won't be delivered to Ireland because of oh you know that unwritten rule that everything bought in this country must be sold at an exorbitant price. And, naturally, the style isn't carried in Europe. Fack.

^ Tommy Hilfiger Londonderry Cable Knit Sweater

The below was another option, although I decided against it because my deathly pallor probably wouldn't be the most fitting accompaniment to its off white hue, and, well, because it's called 'Rugger'...

^ Gant Rugger Cable Knit

I wish I could say the below two were other options but, in all honesty, I'd have to relinquish my room and take to the streets for sleeping for a good month if I bought even one of these...

^ From Top: Unconditional Scoop-neck Cable Knit, and Levi's Vintage Crew-neck Cable Knit

What jumper are you hunting for this season?

Images from Tommy Hilfiger and ASOS

An Innovative Threesome: Timberland x Wallpaper x Martine Rose.

Taking a break from blowing my nose, guzzling Lemsip, and attempting to read about Hedy Lamarr and the supposedly scandalising, Extase, to share something you've probably already come across, but - I'm sure - won't mind viewing one more time.

Having been given a Mojito-fuelled London launch at the Havana Club a couple of weeks ago, the result of the much anticipated Timberland x Wallpaper x Martine Rose collaboration was unveiled recently and it's pretty much rejuvenated my interest in an outerwear company I wouldn't have looked twice at before. The jacket is the result of Timberland's attempt (documented and, to an extent, orchestrated by Wallpaper) to endear itself to a new market through a collaboration with a young London-based menswear talent, Martine Rose.

Featuring a blue enthusiast's dream combination of royal blue and a navy quilted circular patch, the Stratham bomber is every inch the product the collaborators sought to create upon first banding together. Striving to fuse innovation, heritage, and high fashion, the three parties have managed to fashion a piece that boasts appeal to traditional fans of the American brand and avant-garde advocates alike. 

^ Martine Rose

______________________________

For video interviews and blogs from Martine Rose herself describing the collaborative process and her own signature aesthetic, head to Wallpaper.