Monday, 29 November 2010

ASOS MA}ke: Domingo Rodriguez.

Although this has done the blog rounds, and although it seems that every second word I've typed of late has been "ASOS", I'm posting this ace collaboration, and all haters can just go hate...

ASOS MA}ke (don't you just love smart label logos? Best I've seen in an age...) is the result of the v. simple, yet v. genius partnership of online-retailer-set-for-world-domination ASOS.com, and one of Britain's top fashion schools, London College of Fashion. It functions like this: one menswear and one womenswear MA grad receive are handpicked from their class crop to receive mentoring from ASOS fash industry professionals, and eventually create a capsule collection to be sold exclusively on the site. 

The debut partnerships sees former Carolyn Massey intern and newfound favourite men's designer of mine, Liverpudlian Domingo Rodriguez, and Korean-designer Youngli Lee chosen to produce two stellar collections that erase immediately any suspicions you might have harboured regarding the success of this often underwhelming concept of 'big brand x emerging designer'.


^ A collection founded upon the basic sartorial principles of cut, texture, and subtle detail, Rodriguez' contribution is minimalism made romantic insofar as the palette is cold and neutral, but cut varies with draping and slimline silhouettes both featuring throughout. 

On sale now ranging from the surprisingly reasonable prices of £30 to £140.




Sunday, 28 November 2010

OKI-NI Mid-season Sale: Because You Shouldn't Be Braving the Ice...

Brrrrrr! For those of you not based on this currently frozen-over isle, the country's basically been experiencing haphazard (understatement) weather these past few days: thick blankets of clouds bursting with heavy snowfall, structure-shaking claps of thunder and ample strikes of lightning. I just about managed to remove myself from bed today to check out this month's flea, a Movember special, teeth chattering and slipping on ice all the while. Now, though, it's back to warmth, the third strong coffee of the day, Sunday papers, and the OKI-NI mid-season sale - 'screen' shopping, of course, since I'd have to relinquish daily coffees for a year before I could afford even a pair of shoes here. Still, in snowy times, you can't really help but dream...



Here a few favourites I'll be adding to this year's Were They Rich Christmas Wishlist...

















Can't say I'd shell out the hefty seven hundred quid (if I had it) for that lightweight Doma jumpsuit but this brain-freeze has me contemplating the most unlikely of purchases. What takes your fancy? Click through here for the rest of the sale.

Friday, 26 November 2010

Favourite Moments in Film - Carolyn Massey.

Being a Film Studies and German student, it's often I get exclamations like, "Oh watching LOTS of German films, then!?", in response to telling someone what I'm up to in college. And, even though the subjects are entirely separate, I probably should be watching a lot of German films before jetting off to live in the country's capital for six months next year. Alas, priorities are difficult things to get straight, and so chances are you'll find me trawling through collections on GQ.com, rather than catching up on the Filme der Deutschen.

Still, it's never too late to get started, and, ironically, it's a former fashion student that has me committing to watch one of the all-time greats my several lecturers and tutors have been urging me to see for years now -  Wim Wenders' Wings of Desire (1987).




And the former fashion student? Carolyn Massey: menswear designer, three-time winner of the NEWGEN MEN Award, and all-round wonderful person (trust me on this one - she's not going to have you fetching coffee and opening post as an intern), is this week's Favourite Moment in Film contributor. Here's what she had to say of Wenders' milestone in cinema...

"I found this film whilst at the RCA, and was wrestling with colour at that point, so was fascinated by the metaphorical and physical use of colour in this film. Also, by its sense of humanity, and Damiel's (Bruno Ganz) ability to tune into the thoughts and ideals of the mere mortals of war-time Berlin.


It's romantic, yet hard- the angelic birdseye shots of a city at war, combined with the feminine subtlety of the beautiful trapeze artist Marion (Solveig Dommartin).


I also think fundamentally, I was a little in love with Damiel and Cassiel (Otto Sander), these fantastically dressed (40s through 80s, big silhouettes, all a bit Talking Heads) very masculine men, sitting amongst gold angels wings, pondering humanity... sigh."


- Carolyn Massey





Thursday, 25 November 2010

Urban Outfitters: 20% Off Today Only.

What with ASOS the veritable fashion giant constantly bombarding me with practically irresistible offers like 20% off here, deal of the day there, and Topman jumping on board with money-savers like free delivery, it's going to prove difficult to muster up the funds for today's Urban Outfitters 20% off sale.


A store I've always admired, but have never committed to my list of high-street hot-spots (this is growing, incidentally, as my bank balance is exponentially dwindling) until quite recently on discovering their amazing Urban Renewal stock, Urban Outfitters consistently brings the winning formulation of wearability, quality, and a distinctive British sexiness to the fore in its fashion (woah...Nigella-esque alliteration there, sorry). 

Wednesday, 24 November 2010

Sean McGirr: An Irishman Abroad.

Have you heard? Ireland's just gone down the plughole. Yes, we may have developed into a semi-fashion-savvy state with the aid of the Celtic Tiger (it's disputable, but only barely - money helps), attracting international brands from the likes of Forever 21 (who recently opened their first European store here in Dublin) to New Look (who unveiled their largest store to date just a stone's throw from the former), but we're now firmly positioned within the pinch, what with our recent accepting of an approx. €70 billion bailout.


^ Sean McGirr worn by Next model Ben Warnock, shot by Rokas Roch

As a result, many of us - especially those involved in the more creative spheres of art, fashion, and design - are eyeing-up opportunities to emigrate. It's a shame, but try telling Irish fashion grads that, "If the opportunities aren't there, then make them!", when they're barely able to fund the electricity to power their bloody sewing machines, let alone secure a steady market for their wares. Ireland is a small nation, and although the recently launched TV advert for Dublin Airport's second terminal reminds us of just how much we've achieved for such a tiny spot in the Atlantic, we've never enjoyed a stable fashion industry that nurtures young talent here.

Which brings to me to the point of this post - an ode to all the Irish ripping it up abroad, menswear designer Sean McGirr amongst them. Having made the move from Dublin to London on completion of a portfolio course, this fellow countryman is steadily making his mark on the international world of menswear. Still studying in London, he's managed to secure projects with left-of-centre publications like Vogue Hommes Japan (assisting Fashion Editor Shun Watanabe), as well as a position at Burberry. I found out just a bit more about the Dublin-born designer...

MM: What drew you to fashion? And more, specifically, to menswear design?

SM: It started during my adolescence. I would experiment with dyes and materials on cheap clothing. I always enjoyed painting and this was the result of an interest in both clothing and art coming together. Design then came afterwards. I guess specialising in menswear never seemed like a choice. It just felt completely natural that i'd go in this direction.





^ More from the Rokas Rach shoot. Love how McGirr combines the rawness of a deconstructed approach with the more playful, boyish details like the big buttons and sleeveless arms.

MM: What motivated you to move to London? Was it the lack of education for your chosen craft, or something more?

SM: For me it just wasn´t right to study fashion outside of a fashion capital. I love Dublin and Ireland so much! But I was definitely ready to leave. I think the motivation on moving to London came from also from social reasons, not just educational. A teenage boy in Dublin is supposed to fit into a specific catagory factoring in your appearence, sexual preference, musical tastes etc. I wasn´t happy with this so instead, moving to London was also a way of creating my own social identity.



^ McGirr's accessories feature in a beauty story equal parts high-octane glam and punk for Vogue Hommes Japan (September 2010).

MM: Do you feel your nationality/heritage influences your work?

SM: I think it influences everything else I am besides fashion. So, no, not in the way say Vivienne Westwood´s British sensibility has influenced her work.



^ McGirr's collection Beauty Stricken inspired by a Ballet Russes production of the ballet 'Narcissus'. This collection uses, amongst other fabrics, suede and mohair is rendered in colours reminiscent of those one might imagine occurring in the Greek protagonist's environment  - moss greens, and soft flesh pink. It also addresses one of the most topical stories in menswear right now - the ever-increasing feminisation of the male form and how it's adorned. McGirr, much like myself, reckons this isn't an emasculation in a negative sense, but more a blurring a softening of once dominant gender stereotypes.

MM: How would you describe your aesthetic?

SM: Simple - experimental use of high quality fabrics, close attention to trimmings and everything together comes after that.

MM: What are your plans for the future?

SM: To launch an Autumn Winter 2011 collection early next year, travel back to Japan soon and keep on working an intense schedule.

For more check out Sean's blog and website.

Tuesday, 23 November 2010

Neosens' Midnight Blue.

Much like my Wrangler experience, I'm re-disocvering Neosens today. Well, that's an out-and-out lie, I'm coming across the Spanish footwear brand for the first time in my life but in a similar vein to yesterday's post, I've been surprised by the latest endeavour of a brand that's otherwise never managed to quite secure my interest.







I'm talking about the above, of course, from La Rioja-based shoe purveyors, Neosens. Regular readers will find this new infatuation entirely predictable, considering my well-documented obsession with all things midnight blue (midnight blue Lanvin for H&M dinner jacket was the only piece of the collection that I fancied today, incidentally). Combine midnight blue and brogues and frankly I'm yours.

Which gets your vote? Boot or brogue? Leather or suede?


Monday, 22 November 2010

Wrangler: From Ridiculed to Revered.


I know what you're thinking. Wrangler, a firm household denim favourite, and yet a little bit naff, still stuck in its American roots and not making full use of its work-wear heritage to shift styles off shelves.

Wrong. Having been invited by the lovely folks at Surgery PR (thanks Naomi and Cody!) to a special preview of the Spring Summer 2011 collection, I can happily confirm, I was oh so very wrong. Having started as an overalls manufacturer back in the early years of the 20th century, Wrangler has moved from proffering the utilitarian for the North Carolina labourer to courting 1950s affected adolescents, and has sustained appeal all the way up to today's digital era (check their Blue Bell FW10 online campaign feat. much-loved male model, Tony Ward tumbling about in various shades of blue, v. fun).

Yet, while I knew it was always a big seller, I'd never even entertained the thought of actually purchasing a piece from their collection until having my eyes opened last Thursday night.


^ Was tough browsing this rail, trying to contain my denim fetish. And yes, this is SS11, but don't worry, I'm not contradicting myself, the best bit (AW10-themed) is yet to come. Plus, this is quite trans-seasonal, no?


Keen to sustain their popularity amongst the younger demographic of the fashion market, Wrangler have brought out the big guns i.e. sexy models and savvy marketing. But this is by no means a case of smoke and mirrors because the clothes are, well, a bit fab. From their trademark denims to the season's favourite, chinos, to padded overshirts, Wrangler have got it one on this occasion. Here's to many more successful seasons...





^ Bud & Corona! Finally a press preview that caters to the beer fiend within...


^ This has established itself as a rival to the Schott Perfecto I've been eyeing-up but which is still sadly out of financial reach...



^ Having spotted me salivating disturbingly while poring over the above over-shirt from the AW10 collection, the guys were kind enough (scared enough?) to let me take this home with me. Oddly, though, I think the canvas bag it came with was the best bit. College hold-all ahoy.


^ Over-shirt from Wrangler, tee from River Island, chinos from H&M, belt from Urban Renewal at Urban Outfitters, boots from Bench.

For coverage from the female perspective, check out Ali's post over here.