Editorial Watch: Styled for Oki-Ni by Hiroshi Hashiguchi.

Normally, the whole darkness-is-me Rick Owens- and Damir Doma-inspired aesthetic tends to bore me somewhat but with the publication of the latest STYLED editorial from Oki-ni I'm seeing all those gothic nuances in an entirely different light.

^ STYLED by Hiroshi Hashiguchi for Oki-ni.com

Curated by emerging London-based stylist Hiroshi Hashiguchi (who's also done some impressive work for Dazed), the shoot draws almost exclusively on the current season collections of four of fashion's most brooding: Neil Barrett, Martin Margiela, Damir Doma and Rick Owens, and excellently reflects the designers' own individual - if somewhat similar - styles whilst combining them into one coherent edit that's as delicate and romantic as it is unyielding and dark.

^ For full item information and shoot credits, see here.

Whatever it is, the more sun I see, the more black I want to buy. Reckon I'll blame it on the sad but sweet sound of Zola Jesus...

Recommended Reading: Fiasco Homme Issue 1.

Ironically, now that I've delved back into another semester of full-time non-fashion education, I'm reading more fashion-related things than ever before; not all that surprising really, considering mags provide ample procrastination material when I'd much rather be reading about Rad Hourani than about E.T.A. Hoffmann.

Good news, then, that there's a new men's fashion pub on both the online and print markets that's bound to bring me solace amidst time spent poring over endless excerpts from the German literary canon. Fiasco Homme (F/Homme) is the latest addition to French fashion mag network Fiasco, and aims to provide a fresh perspective on all things menswear.

^ The Ultimates. Photography: Justin Wu; Styling: Benjamin Brouillet; Model: Mark Cox

Keen to set itself apart from the competition, Fiasco Homme features a monochromatic colour scheme (the cover being an exception) and both a healthy dose of well-written editorial features as well as photo-shoots. Highlights from the debut issue include London-based journo John Michael O' Sullivan's musings on the current state of menswear and the formidable creations of Hanna ter Meulen, John Lawrence Sullivan and Rad Hourani all photographed brilliantly for your delectation.

Add to that model profiles (worry not, these ones are actually somewhat interesting...) and some of the most visually arresting images I've encountered in a long while (the fruits of photographer Justin Wu's and fashion ed. Benjamin Brouillet's labour in The Ultimates) and you've got a knock-out job.

Definitely worth some space on your coffee table.

Fiasco Homme is released May 1st; see here for stockists


Images from Twitter and Abhfya

SS 2011: Henri Lloyd.

Last week saw Berlin daily temperatures steadily rising over the 20°C mark, which, as you might imagine, saw me looking like I was in danger of cardiac arrest during my tri-weekly runs, slathering on factor 50+ before even attempting to nip out to the offie (or Späti as they're called here) at 7pm and generally being a sweaty mess.

^ Newman tee

So, it's with a heavy heart that I introduce the Spring Summer 2011 collection from Henri Lloyd which boasts an extensive collection of nautical inspired pieces which are perfect for Summery months spent by the seaside but not so appropriate for my sweltering urban environment. Still, let it not be said that I've no active imagination - here's what I'd wear were I Brighton/Brittany-bound on a less than oppressively hot day...

^ Droman cable-knit

^ Rushford crew-neck knit

^ The chinos (on top) come from the brand's diffusion line HL Jeans and are that bit more in line with current trends, but it's the bottom pair from the mainline Henri Lloyd jeans collection that I'm more attracted to; most probably due to the lack of skinniness and promise of ventilation (yes, I am geriatric...)

^ Linden short-sleeved shirt

^ Viking deck shoes

For more from bona fide British boating brand Henri Lloyd, including women's and kidswear and some inspiring campaigns that are sure to spur you on to your own naval pursuits, see here.

Male Muse: Matthew Zorpas.

It's been an age since I last waxed lyrical about another man's style; chiefly due to the lack of inspiration, rather than it just slipping my mind. When I came across Matthew Zorpas, though, I know there'd be nothing to stop the gushing.

^ A brilliant mix of textures and tones combined with a multifaceted silhouette, all seemingly worn without the sole intention of preening and posing for cameras. Elegance ahoy.

Although an undisputed man-about-(London)-town, freelance PR impresario Zorpas doesn't exhibit one of those instantly recognisable styles associated with the city - be it those influenced by punk and indie music strains or those paying homage to the dandy Beau Brummel-esque. Instead, Zorpas brings with him his Cypriot roots (he moved from Cyprus to London at the age of 18), carefully crafting a personal style that fuses the Mediterranean with the metropolitan....

^ As much as I heralded the arrival of the somewhat baggier trouser post-Hedi-at-Dior Homme, I can't say this is what I'd envisioned but Zorpas works it well. Also, check out the cuff details - they're BAUBLES! Incredible.

^ Favourite look by far; don't think I've ever seen an outfit which so seamlessly blends simplicity (colour palette, silhouette) and richness (print, detailing) at the same time.

You won't find Zorpas in a pair of slashed-at-the-knee drainpipe skinnies nor (with the exception of the more conservative attire below) a conventional tailored suit, but rather a v. literally outstanding outfit composed of earthy tones and outré silhouettes. A patron of emerging designers (apparently handing out designer-details-filled cards when asked for his photograph), 22-year-old Zorpas not only himself embodies fashion's new generation, but works toward garnering attention for it, too. Bravo.

^ This shot (by Vanessa Jackman) last year saw him voted Britain's 2nd Best Dressed Man by Esquire Magazine.

For more on Matthew, find him on Twitter or read his contributions on London fashion to Un Nouveau Ideal.

Images from The Style Crusader and BLOW

Ryan Parry: Haute Head-wear.

Sarah, my new roommate Berlin-side, has amassed for herself quite the well-curated head-wear wardrobe over the past few years. I, on the other hand, am entirely hat-less, though it's never bothered me before since I've never really thought that one would fulfil that oh so important function of completing an outfit; at least never in my case since head-wear is to me what the chalkiest of chalk is to cheese...

That was until now. Now, I have serious hat envy and it's all thanks to Ryan Parry's breathtaking, off-kilter collection. Styled by Christopher Preston (primarily known for his work with model-mad HERO magazine) and featuring Elite model Tommy Kristiansen, this shoot brilliantly accentuates the conflict between a robust, graphic aesthetic and the more fluid and romantic image at work in Parry's creations.

Can't seem to unearth much more info on this milliner so if you've got links to share, feel free to drop them in a comment below...

Sjaak Hullekes: The First Flagship.

According to berlin.unlike, most of the must-see fashion landmarks are located, v. conveniently, within a mile or two radius of my new place in Mitte. I'm nothing if not nerdy about my most dear interests so - natch - I'm compiling a list of possible posts feat. Berlin's best as regards boutiques.

But first - to Arnhem, The Netherlands, where award-winning Dutch designer Sjaak Hullekes just recently flung open the gorge doors of his first flagship store. Located on the Dutch town's Kerkstraat, the newly restored space honours tradition, keeping in the vein of small, specialist trade which characterises the "alley-area" within which it's situated (think quaint flower shops and one selling paper and accoutrements exclusively).

Eager to provide shoppers with the all-round experience, Hullekes and Managing Director Sebastiaan Kramer have chosen to carry both the men's and women's labels, stock scented candles by Parisian patisserie house Ladurée (don't think I ever want to encounter these, may result in ingesting wax...) and will soon retail the diffusion line SJ by Sjaak Hullekes.

The brand will also debut an online store during 2011. For more on Sjaak and the brand formerly known as Arnheim Fashion, see here and here.

Zanacco: All-Italian Sustainable Luxury.

If reading Dana Thomas' Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Lustre taught me anything, it's that the luxury sector is - for the most part - populated by brands with the capitalist credo of 'Profit Above All Else' at the forefront of their collective mind. Outsourcing labour to third-world countries, manufacturing products using unsustainable materials and peddling myths all seem justified in their quest for cash.

 

So it's good to know that there are those that aren't quite so Machiavellian in approach, yet are still producing products to have and to hold, and to love for ever more. Zanacco, an Italian brand through-and-through (all their goods are 100% made in Italy), has released its Spring Summer 2011 lookbook which is testament to their laudable talent for blending ethics and aesthetics...

Using the same manufacturers as household brand names such as Bottega Veneta and Zegna, Zanacco take eco-friendly materials such as vegetable tanned leathers, water-based glue, cocofibre inner soles, biodegradable soles and organic cotton lining to create collections marked apart from the usual 'green' ranges, which may help save the planet, but - as is often the case - put your image at serious risk; no one wants another hemp shirt.

^ Personal favourites; judgement based purely on their novelty - haven't really got a clue as to how they'd be worn well...

Find them at Wolf and Badger and Eterno in London, and for a full list of stockists see here.

Repton Boxing Club: Alasdair McLellan for Sunspel.

For fans of storied British cotton brand Sunspel, for fans of prolific Brit photographer Alasdair McLellan, for fans of buff boys semi-naked, and for those of you just looking for the inspiration to hit the gym before the Summer months...



"NO GUTS NO GLORY"

WIN: As the Music Dies Tee!

Since starting classes here at the FU I've lost track of the number of times I've been asked which genre of film is my favourite. My answer is usually some kind of variant on the following: "Eh...I don't really have one favourite genre" (read: If I choose just one, you'll proceed to ask me to justify my decision, and I probably won't be able to muster anything more arresting than a "Just 'cos")...

To spare me such threats of being outed as a film ignoramus, I'm contemplating investing in one of the following from NYC-based label As the Music Dies, which would save me having to speak at all.

Founded just recently by graphic designer Jason Tam, this line of well-cut cotton tees takes its inspiration from the dark recesses of music and film with eye-catching images from some of the most iconic motion pictures of the horror canon (Argento's Suspiria and The Omen amongst others) and lyrics from some heavy-hitting songs (think Smashing Pumpkins Bullet with Butterfly Wings)...

To be in with a chance to WIN one of these tees/vests (your choice - check out the site for more options) and proudly project your darker sentiments to the public, then...

simply Like this blog on Facebook and leave a comment on the wall, describing your favourite horror film in three words...

...and for an extra entry follow Male-Mode.com on Twitter.

Competition closes Friday April 13th 29th 2011 12PM (GMT+1)

Winner will be selected using Random.org

Top image from Teehunter