Sunday, 31 July 2011

ITS#Fashion: Fah Chak's Knight's Tale.

From Galliano to Daphne Guinness, armour and other medieval icons have often played muse to several designers in recent years. Winner of the Maison Martin Margiela award at this year's ITS#Fashion, and the second noteworthy grad to be featured here, Fah Chak has also come over all helmets and breastplates with a collection that fuses masculine silhouettes informed by medieval war-wear and incorporating subtly romantic flourishes.




For her final student collection, Chak attempts to trace the stages of an ill-fated romance between a knight and princess, mixing the more mean (bulbous outerwear, lean trousers) with the sensitive and somewhat regal (laser cut-out details on leather to mimic lace, elaborate metallic ruffs). The concept won't intellectually stimulate for hours on end but the execution is second to none.





Images from F Tape
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Personally, I reckon this year's panel had their priorities straight but where does your loyalty lie? With Fak Chak's knight's tale or Shaun Samson's bold fabric frenzy?

Wednesday, 27 July 2011

ITS#Fashion: Shaun Samson's Collection of the Year.

If the job market is proving less than welcoming for budding designers right now, there are, thankfully, alternative methods of carrying on your creative pursuits and being able to afford to live on something a little more substantial than a daily tin of baked beans.

ITS (International Talent Support) is a Northern Italian-based initiative whose good work I've mentioned here a few times in passing; suffice to say, this body doles out some of the most coveted awards to some of the most talented final-year fashion students as part of ITS#Fashion sponsored by Diesel. Now, having reached its ninth edition, the standard shows no sign of faltering. Here are two of the menswear highlights (Part 2 to follow)...


^ ITS#Fashion Collection of the Year from Shaun Samson

Californian-born Shaun Samson started off in LA, then continued to put his best fashion-foot forward, emigrating to the UK in order to enrol at the prestigious Central Saint Martins. He's worked on a total of four collections for Jeremy Scott, which suggests to me - considering the disparity between his own work and Jeremy Scott's brash and barmy aesthetic - that he may be a new Kaiser Karl of sorts, a commercially astute designer capable of catering to several different needs.



Composed mainly of oversized silhouettes somehow enticing in their awkwardness, Samson's graduate collection which won this year's Fashion Collection of the Year (€15,000 and a fully-produced catwalk show) is perhaps best described as a fabric nerd's tartan-covered woolly wet-dream. Inspired by Latino street-culture, American work-wear and prison uniform, the collection was exclusively sponsored by Woolrich which makes for a happy, and somewhat more solvent Samson, but a slightly compromised collection which in some ways seems to have restricted the designer to variations on a theme: the luxe Neanderthal.


His technical innovation (he invented a needle punch felting technique which enables him to combine several dissimilar fabrics into a seemingly seamless gradation of materials) smacks of Prada, while his cuts and austere aesthetic (loud check prints aside) echo the masters of minimalism, Marni by Consuelo Castiglioni and Raf Simons.


I probably wouldn't wear it but loan me a few grand and I'd happily see it hanging in a display case.

Images from F Tape

Tuesday, 26 July 2011

Kein Durst.

Flea-markets are tough to do right. Get there too late in a hungover haze and you've missed the best of the bargains; get there too early like an over-eager child who's just eaten too many E numbers and you'll not get to fully experience the atmosphere. At last weekend's Kein Durst (No Thirst) Flohmarkt I made the former mistake but didn't fare all that badly for it.


Organised by various Berlin-based creative types in an urgent attempt to raise funds for areas plagued by drought in Africa, the market succeeded in collecting over €6,000 for Ärzte ohne Grenzen (Doctors without Boundaries) working in Somalia.

Wood Wood were there, as well as Stil in Berlin, the former offering sleek designs for the Scandi skateboarding types and the latter peddling an impressive collection of fashion books ranging in theme from hairstyles to their very own street-style magazine featuring the city's best-dressed.


After a brief impromptu shoot with the inimitable SMP amidst the interiors of St. Elisabeth Kirche on Invalidenstrasse...


^ SMP in a look all vintage in Berlin


^ Me in a mixture of Weekday and Zara


...I snapped this up...


Then lapped this up at a Thai place opposite Mauerpark...

Friday, 22 July 2011

Fashion, Education and Finding a Job.

The latest debate raging over at Fashion156 got me thinking about fashion and the prospect of finding a job in such a competitive industry over-saturated with graduates. My two cents?

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This time last Summer I was penning press releases and photographing some of the most exquisite Spring Summer knitwear known to man at Carolyn Massey's Hackney-based studio in London. Oh, and constantly having to explain myself  as to just why I'd spend my Summer undertaking an unpaid fashion internship when it's Film Studies and German I'm usually nerding over at college.

Truth is, I'd done my research prior to making university applications, having asked several fashion professionals and grads of fashion-related degree courses what was the best path to a career in the industry. Some (British-based grads) told me to save spending unimaginable sums of money on makeshift vocational courses like "Fashion Communications", "Fashion Journalism" etc.; advice I'm glad I heeded having later heard from an American friend who spent her first year at London College of Fashion (LCF) - their final project consisted solely of composing an 800-word article on a current fashion trend! 

Others recommended pursuing a general undergrad course such as English or Media/Communications to gain those coveted yet so difficultly defined "transferable skills" and time to think about just what it was I wanted to do post-education. 


^ From the NCAD alumnus Steven Lawless' graduate collection

Then there was the odd counsel from one particular fashion journalist and freelance editor who recommended I study for a Law degree so as to ensure I'd be well versed in copyright law and capable of defending my own writing from the abusive power of crooked editors of mags and newspapers.

Now, I've not yet managed to actually secure a job in fashion (and even if I were to be offered one, it wouldn't make perfect sense to leave a degree course having just completed my penultimate year) so, technically, any one of you would be fully justified in deeming it redundant but consider that opting for a general Arts/Humanities degree hasn't prevented me from landing a part-time job in an indie boutique (the, now, sadly defunct Circus), interning with one of London's most respected menswear designers, being offered opportunities to write for national press and it's also not stopped me from relishing all the fun stuff either - the parties, the shows etc. which also proffer the chance to network with like-minded fashion amateurs and professionals alike.

Yes, this blog has made all that and more possible for me, but the point is - fashion just isn't an industry that looks primarily to your third-level qualifications in order to grant you access to its upper echelons. Consider Tavi, a suburban schoolgirl who's sat front row at major fashion weeks and is in the process of writing a book. Think, too, about some of fashion's major players: André Leon Talley (who holds a Masters in French Studies), Nicola Formichetti (who started out studying music and architecture) and, of course, Anna Wintour (who didn't bother with college at all, granted her network of contacts was golden).

What you need seems, at least to me, to be talent, contacts, balls and some way/one to pay the rent when you're trying to make that all-important break. Questioning the validity of current fashion-related courses and the manner in which they are structured (that is to say, not providing students with requisite skills) seems to me to be almost entirely redundant. Fashion, just like any other creative industry, gives precedence to experience over formal qualifications and priority to personality and talent over academic prowess. 

No one graduating with a degree in English expects to automatically become an acclaimed author having completed their course. So why should it be any different for fashion? A diploma/degree equips and educates, but it is not some kind of master key to the competitive job market.

Thoughts?

Tuesday, 19 July 2011

TRANSMISSION1.

I'm not quite sure why but almost every fashion-related event in Berlin seems to be sponsored by Mercedes Benz. Whoever thought cars and clothing would be such fond bed-fellows?


Aside from the bi-annual affair of Berlin Fashion Week, the makers of the infamous Merc have also recently offered a helping hand to realise designer Raf Simons' latest project, Transmission 1 - a weekend-long (July 15th-17th 2011) event exhibiting various artists' (Konstantin Grcic, Peter Saville, Germaine Kruip, Peter de Potter) interpretations of the avant-garde, housed within the Berliner Congress Centre at Alexanderplatz.


Simons also arranged for a musical accompaniment to the weekend, inviting fashion-b(r)and These New Puritans as well as Goose, Fischerspooner and DJ Hell to all perform in the avant-garde environs. For cinephiles, there were several film screenings themed around Science Fiction, Horror and, finally, Simon's own year of birth (think Kubrick's 2001: A Space Odyssey and Roger Vadim's tale of a buxom outer-space blonde, Barbarella).



For those of you that couldn't make it, check out some of the blogosphere's best's accounts (both live-blogged at the event): Hapsical and Dandy Gum and keep updated at Simons' and Mercedes Benz' joint online venture: the Avant Garde Diaries.

Sunday, 17 July 2011

STAY TUNED...